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    First Taste

    Alto opens with high expectations & exciting gourmet pizza: Does the new WestAve spot deliver?

    Sarah Rufca
    Apr 22, 2011 | 9:44 am
    • Alto wants to be casual, but it's a different kind of casual.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Alto brings a new take on gourmet pizza to West Ave.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • The appetizers are plentiful at Alto.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Photo by Sarah Rufca

    Alto Pizzeria is supposed to be the more casual little sister to Ava Kitchen, though you wouldn't necessarily know it by sight.

    Just upstairs from Ava at West Ave, there are flat screens scattered around Alto, to be sure, but there are also oversized wrought iron chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows with a view of Kirby, and some thoroughly un-casual seating and colors, including low-slung, pumpkin-colored wing chairs that are oh-so-inviting to lean back on after a meal or too much wine.

    And yet there are chicken wings on the menu — offered with red wine vinegar and gorgonzola sauce, of course. And the powers that be are adamant this is a place people can walk in wearing shorts and sandals, order a beer and a pizza and watch the game.

    They're aiming for casual, but it's a different kind of casual, a just-because-things-are-cheaper-here-doesn't-mean-it-has-to-be-ugly kind of casual, equal distance from other Schiller/Del Grande concepts Taco Milagro and The Grove. (Schiller/Del Grande co-founder Lonnie Schiller is an investor in CultureMap.)

    It's a tone that the menu matches. Appetizers and small plates are plentiful, but the focus is on the dozen-plus pizzas that come out of a cylindrical oven that sparkles with iridescent peach tile. There are the classics — margherita, Italian sausage — but most of the pies are full of premium meats and other ingredients. There's speck with provolone, cippolini and arugula; littleneck clam with ricotta, bacon, parsley and chile flakes.

    The crust is thin and a little too flimsy for my taste, but it has a nice bitterness even without a visible char. With prices between $10 and $17, the pizzas bigger and more fulfilling when the $8 versions at Caffe Bello and Era, but not by too much.

    The genius of the pies is in the design, with toppings that mesh beautifully, hitting every flavor center. I loved the gorgonzola and white cheese pizza, with a bed of bitter arugula that countered the sweetness of dried mission figs, with the cheese and bits of bacon to add another sweet-salty layer. The Italian sausage pizza with broccoli rabe, fennel seed and garlic had a fresh complexity that belied the tried-and-true main topping.

    The pasta I tried (shell pasta with gulf shrimp and ricotta tomato sauce) was pretty pedestrian, but I liked the artichoke fonduta appetizer, a sauce-less take on baked artichoke with cheese.

    The pizza doesn't have the personality of the pies at Era or the crust of Russo's New York Coal-Fired Pizzeria. But in a town that's tragically short on excellent gourmet pizza, there's plenty of room for a solid winner.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars
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