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    Introducing burger-chan

    Underground burger joint gets a 'cute' new name

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 21, 2017 | 3:15 pm
    Kuma Burger Greenway Plaza
    The name may be changing, but the food will remain the same at burger-chan.
    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Last year, visiting Kuma Burgers served as something of a marker to distinguish people who are truly passionate about dining from those who just like to banter on Facebook about how much they like food. After all, if a a person couldn’t summon the motivation to check out an underground burger joint in the Greenway Plaza food court run by a former Oxheart cook, then she’s probably someone who talks the talk but doesn't walk the walk.

    Owned by chef Willet Feng and his wife Diane, the unassuming spot, which is built around a custom-blended patty of 80-20 beef seared on a griddle and topped with a number of house made sauces like scallion aioli and sambal mayo, earned recognition as one of 2016’s best new restaurants from a number of local publications. Unfortunately, all that success attracted negative attention from an out-of-state restaurant that challenged the Fengs' ability to use the name “Kuma Burgers.”

    After consulting with an attorney, the couple decided that, rather than spend a lot of money fighting a lawsuit, they would change the restaurant’s name. Effective immediately, the Kuma Burgers is now known as burger-chan.

    “We decided to stick to Japanese. We wanted it to be similar to our current name in that respect,” Diane Feng tells CultureMap. “‘Chan’ is a Japanese honorific, it’s a suffix used for cute little children . . . (Also) if Will decided he wanted to do other concepts in the future it would be noodle-chan or steak-chan. It’s a way to have a different name but a cohesive identify.”

    Diane has tasked her husband with creating a “burger-chan” signature burger that would be “cute” in some way: whether it be smaller or have colorful toppings. “To be honest, Diane kind of sprung (the idea) on me,” Feng says. “I’m still thinking about it.”

    Although the name is changing, the menu will remain the same. Other than burgers, the restaurant serves hot dogs, a veggie patty made with soy-braised eggplant, and a fish sandwich made with panko-crusted cod. Classic Texas chili, hand cut french fries, and creative milkshake all have combined to help burger-chan develop its good reputation.

    Feng says he’s pleased with the reaction from both the press and the restaurant’s customers but would like to find a way for the restaurant to be a little busier. He notes that it’s hard to generate a lot of revenue when the business is only open from for a few hours per day, five days per week.

    The Greenway Plaza food court currently has a vacancy that would allow burger-chan to relocate to a more prominent location next to the Rice Box, but the chef declined to comment on whether the restaurant has plans to move. Other landlords have approached the couple about opening a second location, but they want to proceed cautiously.

    “Some of the places we’ve looked at are possibilities,” Willet Feng says. “It just depends on a whole bunch of different factors. Obviously, everything has to line up financially and whether the opportunity is right.”

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    What's Eric Eating Episode 584

    Beard Award-winning Latin chef dishes on big Houston move and menu overhaul

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 11, 2026 | 4:32 pm
    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez
    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair
    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Douglas Rodriguez and Bari Hospitality Group co-owner Pedro Teyuca join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Exilio Latin Flair, the company’s pan-Latin restaurant in Montrose.



    Opened in April in the former Verde Garden space, Exilio recently recruited Rodriguez to serve as executive chef and revamp its menu. Known as the “Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine,” the chef brings an impressive resume to his role, including winning Rising Star Chef in the 1996 James Beard Awards, competing on season one of Top Chef Masters, and earning a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide for Nikos, a Greek restaurant in Durham, NC. As he explains in the episode, he and Bari co-owner Tommy Nally first developed the idea for Exilio when they worked together in Vegas, so he jumped at the opportunity to bring the restaurant to life.

    Rodriguez just rolled out a new menu for Exilio that includes a total revamp of the restaurant’s ceviches and entrees. Specific dishes include tuna watermelon ceviche, mixto seafood ceviche with leche de tigre, Colombian-style chicken empanadas, snapper Veracruz, and a smoked ribeye.

    “The sauce is made with panca peppers (Peruvian red pepper), watermelon juice, yuzu juice. Then it’s slices of tuna and slices of watermelon. I kind of single them,” Rodriguez says about the tuna watermelon ceviche. “The sauce has red onion, Thai basil, tarragon, a herb you don’t usually find in a ceviche. It’s very light, refreshing, herbaceous — hits a lot of different areas in the palate for a simple, two ingredient dish.”

    The chef adds that he’s been getting to know Houston through its restaurants. He cites Mala Sichuan and Hugo’s as two places that have impressed him. He also hails Love Croissants, whose owner, chef Omar Pereney, worked for Rodriguez prior to moving to Houston.

    “I have a long list of places to explore, and I’m excited that this is a big food city,” Rodriguez adds. “I haven’t been to Maximo yet. That’s at the top of my list. I’m excited to be here and get people into the restaurant to try the food.”

    For his part, Teyuca provides an update on Bari’s plans to open a second location in The Woodlands later in September. He also shares exciting news about the company’s plans to add a sushi bar to the lounge above Georgia James, the Montrose steakhouse it purchased from Underbelly Hospitality in 2024.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez

    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair

    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

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