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    Foodie News

    Avoid hipsters & beautiful people at all costs!: An economist's suspect rulesfor foodies

    Sarah Rufca
    Apr 20, 2012 | 4:03 pm
    • An Economist Gets Lunch
    • Tyler Cowen

    It's a good time to be an economist. Ever since the Freakonomics guys explained everything from how sumo wrestlers cheat to why Amber isn't as classy a name as it used to be, there's been a market for wonks to deconstruct modern life.

    Enter Tyler Cowen, an economist, professor and avid foodie, and his new book, An Economist Gets Lunch: New Rules for Everyday Foodies. Cowen can sometimes come off like the über-Yelper, revering the almighty food truck and taking it for granted that the most exotic cuisines are by definition better and more interesting.

    First, eat far from beautiful women, happy people and hipsters. Hipsters are drawn to places that are popular or trendy, both signs of overpriced food.

    His eye roll-inducing introduction brags about his preference for Bolivian, Laotian and North Korean fare and uniformly declares cuisine in Paris to be the worst in Europe for anyone without an expense account. (Upon hearing this, the publishers of the influential Le Fooding guide immediately disbanded.)

    He's also wary of the slow food movement, claiming that genetically modified food and the creation of agribusiness is what enables us to adequately and safely feed a rapidly expanding global population. But in his determination to guide average eaters to meals that provide more satisfaction for their money, Cowen offers some interesting and often useful advice, especially as distilled into six rules in The Atlantic.

    First, eat far from beautiful women, happy people and hipsters. Hipsters are drawn to places that are popular or trendy, both signs of overpriced food, and Cowen says that a restaurant full of beautiful women attracts other diners for all the wrong reasons — that is, any reason other than that the food is tasty and inexpensive. But what if the restaurant just serves really good salad?

    Similarly, restaurants full of people smiling and having a good time might be there for the social atmosphere — another waste in Cowen's eyes. He recommends restaurants where people are yelling and seem overly serious about the food, which does seem to manifest another preference for hole-in-the-wall ethnic joints, as well as a limited view of what constitutes a good meal.

    Cowen recommends eating from restaurants that have the fewest overhead costs, which means ignoring places in high-rent zones and opting for restaurants in strip malls outside the city center, or, even better, food trucks. This is actually great advice for Houston, where strip malls and great ethnic restaurants are both plentiful.

    Taking this line of thought to its logical conclusion, Cowen recommends restaurants that lower labor costs by employing family members rather than those that actually are required to pay legal wages or who include valets or sommeliers on staff. This just seems wrong. Not that family restaurants aren't very good at what they do (they often are) but if you start rewarding restaurants for underpaying staff, you only encourage bad owner behavior in a race to the bottom.

    Quality of life for servers and other restaurant employees, like the quality of ingredients provided by ethical farming, is of no consequence to Cowen. Based on Houston's reaction to the Ruggles scandal, I don't think that's a philosophy most local foodies can get behind.

    Another tip from Cowen is to patronize restaurants serving less common cuisines, which is why he favors Vietnamese food over Thai food and Pakistani food over Indian food. As he says in The Atlantic,

    . . . Thai food has become cool. I first saw this trend in California, in the 1980s, when young people in black started turning up in large numbers at Thai restaurants in Hollywood. It spread. Americans eating in a Thai restaurant are likely more hip than those eating in a Chinese restaurant. Yet hip people do not always have superb taste in food.

    As Thai restaurants have become more popular, they have become unreliable. It is so easy to make the food too sweet, appealing to lowest-common-denominator tastes or masking deficiencies in the food’s preparation. The best sweet Thai dishes mix sweet with tart, but there’s been too much abuse on the sweet side and not enough use of fish sauce or fermented shrimp paste or ground white pepper. The most-reliable indicators of bad Thai restaurants are a large bar and sushi on the menu. Those are both signs that the restaurant isn’t that serious about food. Stay away."

    First of all, lets all take a moment to enjoy a middle-aged economist describing things that are hip and cool, like Hollywood's large beatnik community in the 1980s.

    Houston Modifications

    While I agree with this sentiment in theory, obviously in Houston the formula must be changed. Chinese food and Vietnamese food are both extremely popular, and yet neither are particularly Americanized because many of these restaurants exist in the same neighborhoods in competition with one another (always a plus, according to Cowen) and serve, at least in part, an Asian clientele. If you are looking for something less on the average Houstonian's radar, you might have to seek out Korean or Malaysian cuisine.

    I'm curious how much of his findings are based on solid economics and how much are the manifestations of a foodie culture that, like Cowen, loaths hipsters and ascribes value to places that are cheap, unglamorous, and off the beaten path. That's not necessarily a bad way to find good food on a budget. It's just not a very scientific method.

    What do you think of Cowen's theories? And how do you judge where to find good food?

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    water, water everywhere

    The quest for a Topo Chico replacement — we rate 9 sparkling waters

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 17, 2026 | 2:59 pm
    Sparkling water taste
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    We purchased sparkling water at five stores across the inner loop.

    Topo Chico drinkers nationwide are in a bit of a tizzy. Coca-Cola, which acquired the cult-favorite sparkling mineral water in 2017, announced that the product will be unavailable for at least the next few months.

    CNN reports the shortage is due to “facility upgrades at the water source and production facilities in Mexico.”

    “We are now making further investments at the source to improve source stability and quality and enable increased production, requiring us to temporarily stop production,” Coca-Cola said in a letter to CNN.

    For Topo Chico fans, the shortage brings an obvious question. What should a person drink until the supply is restored? Or, what’s a permanent replacement that will avoid this issue altogether?

    After collecting suggestions from people via Instagram, I went to Spec’s and inner loop grocery stores to purchase nine varieties of sparkling water with one goal in mind — find something that’s similar enough to Topo Chico that it will earn a spot in my refrigerator.

    In the interests of science, I only included sparkling water brands that are similar in size (approximately 12-ounce bottles) and price (between $1 and $1.50 per bottle). Whenever possible, I purchased glass bottles instead of cans or plastic. Although many are available in flavors, I only purchased unflavored waters. All waters were chilled overnight in a refrigerator prior to tasting.

    Sparkling water taste test Each water was chilled overnight prior to tasting.Photo by Eric Sandler

    Not surprisingly, my top three choices came down to two other Mexican sparkling waters and a convincing dupe from H-E-B.

    Most Similar to Topo Chico

    Agua de Piedra
    Purchased from Spec’s (can also be found at La Michocana), this water from Nuevo Leon, Mexico can be found at several restaurants and coffee shops around town. It offers both strong carbonation and just enough saltiness to satisfy a Topo craving. As long as I can source it reliably, this will be my new house water.

    Mineragua
    Available at both Whole Foods Market and H-E-B, this water from Jarritos is almost as carbonated as Topo Chico. Its flavor profile is salty with a slight, citrus-style acidity. I prefer the flavor of Agua de Piedra, but others may like this more.

    1877 Mineral Water by H-E-B
    H-E-B’s house brand sparkling mineral water is sourced from Texas, in Mineral Wells. It has carbonation that persists from opening until finishing. Its slightly salty flavor will be welcomed by Topo Chico drinkers. Overall, it’s probably the best choice for more people, since it’s so readily available.

    Less Like Topo, but Still Tasty

    Rambler Sparkling Water
    This mineral water from Austin is available everywhere, including many restaurants and bars. Since it's only available in cans, its more mild carbonation doesn’t match Topo Chico’s; however, it has a lightly salty taste that makes it very refreshing. This is a good option for those who find Topo to be too fizzy.

    Tehuacan
    Purchased at Central Market, this water is sourced from springs within Citlaltépetl, Mexico’s highest mountain. The mountain’s volcanic rock gives the water a noticeable saltiness with a slightly sour taste. Although it wasn’t quite to my taste, its strong carbonation and distinct flavor could appeal to other Topo devotees.

    Private Selection Sparkling Mineral Water
    Available at Kroger, this water is neither as carbonated nor as salty as Topo Chico. Still, it has enough fizz and minerality to do in a pinch, particularly for people who prefer shopping at Kroger over other grocery stores.

    Your Mileage May Vary

    Richard’s Sparkling Rainwater
    Admittedly, a non-mineral water was unlikely to emerge as a favorite in this taste test. Since it’s made with filtered rainwater, Richard’s has a very clean taste and a mild level of carbonation.

    Saratoga Carbonated Spring Water
    Like Richard’s, this water is too lightly carbonated and too mildly flavored to satisfy a Topo craving. Still, it’s clean and refreshing, which could appeal to non-Topo drinkers.

    I’ve Had Better

    Liquid Death Mountain Water (Sparkling)
    Bland and flat-tasting, this water was the only one I wouldn’t purchase again. Maybe the flavored versions are better.

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