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    Foodie News

    The Michelin man: Chef Philippe Schmit spent $12,000 eating in France and youget the benefit

    Sarah Rufca
    Apr 18, 2012 | 1:40 pm
    • Sardines
      Photo by Mai Pham
    • Philippe Schmit
    • Chorizo gazpacho
      Photo by Mai Pham
    • Escargot
      Photo by Mai Pham
    • Egg and pea
      Photo by Mai Pham
    • Blanc Manger
      Photo by Mai Pham

    When Philippe Schmit of Philippe Restaurant + Lounge headed to France in March to officially receive his Maîtres Cuisiniers de France designation, it wasn't just a homecoming for the Roanne-born chef.

    Instead Schmit embarked on a two-week tour of some of France's Michelin-starred restaurants, including L'Abeille, Le Mini Palais, Le 39 V and L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, soaking up the latest trends in French gastronomy. Upon his return, he created a special menu based on the ingredients and technicques he liked the most, and presented the creations in an exclusive dinner.

    "I'm going to save you $12,000," Schmit said, referencing the jaw-dropping amount he spent on his trip.

    "I'm going to save you $12,000," Schmit said, referencing the jaw-dropping amount he spent on his trip.

    First up: a not-so-subtle reminder that sometimes it's all about getting the best protein. José Pena sardines are perhaps the only luxury tinned sardines in the world (they are even sold at Galeries Lafayette) and Schmit said they were the best he had in France. They may or may not have snuck into America in his suitcase.

    Schmit created an amuse bouche of sardines, a tomato focaccia bread and seaweed butter, served alongside a couple thin slices of jamón iberico, also known as the most expensive pork in the world. I savored the jamon by itself, but the combination of bread, butter and sardines was so deliciously salty and pungent it made me question everything I know about the tiny, underappreciated fish.

    The salty fish was followed by a light gazpacho served in a snifter and topped with an equal space of shrimp bisque foam, adding a subtly rich, creamy layer of flavor, as well as a dash of chorizo dust. It was a beautiful dish as presented, and Schmit says the shrimp-chorizo gazpacho will soon be on Philippe's menu, though possibly in a slightly different format.

    It's not a French meal without escargot, and Schmit served them in an bite he said was proliferating around Paris — in cromesquis, or croquettes of pig's feet. The croquettes were heavy on the breading but the addition of a sweet, almond-y orgeat emulsion gave a nice rounder flavor.

    The dinner was a reminder why Schmit is the only chef in Texas to receive the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France title.

    The fourth course gave me some doubts when I first saw it — a mess of bright green and brown in a martini glass — but it ended up being one of my favorites. The green was a pea puree while the brown was a sauce of pureed morel mushrooms, served in layers with an hour-poached egg and a light touch of balsamic reduction, plus a powdered truffle oil rimming the top of the glass and two sticks of toasted brioche for dipping.

    Between the truffle and the morel, the smell and taste was so rich it reminded me of foie gras for a moment, while the mellow sweetness of the peas rounded out the dish nicely. It was by far the most unexpected dish, and based on Schmit's travelogue slideshow, it was a creation that closely hewed to its Michelin-starred inspiration.

    After this, the courses took a slightly more traditional turn: A sous vide glazed cod filet was paired with asparagus three ways and a lardon emulsion, and a juicy duck magret confit served in a make-shift sandwich underneath a thin layer of phyllo dough with rhubarb and baby vegetables in a tangy orange and beet jus.

    Desserts, which ranged from a bright Basque sheep cheese to a delicate blanc manger with strawberries, were a high point, as were the wine pairings from beverage director Vanessa Treviño Boyd, which included a sparkler from California's Roederer Estate, a crisp Basque txacolina and an uncommon white burgundy.

    The dinner was a reminder why Schmit is the only chef in Texas to receive the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France title. His menu may take inspiration from his adopted home, but the basis of his cooking is a true love and understanding of French gastronomy.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    a truer sound

    New Montrose listening bar is a high-fidelity haven for music lovers

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 23, 2026 | 3:12 pm
    Casalu listening bar
    Courtesy of Casalu
    Grab a seat at the bar.

    Montrose’s lively bar scene has welcomed a new listening lounge that’s drawing major buzz. Called Casalu, it aims to have the best-sounding room in Houston.

    Owner Lutfi Rukab brings experience as a co-owner of Brookstreet Bar-B-Q to Casalu. The bar’s location at 1001 Missouri allows it to share a parking lot with Brookstreet’s Montrose location. Rukab tells CultureMap that his experience as both a DJ and a patron of listening bars around the world motivated him to open Casalu.

    “When I’ve traveled to places like Europe and New York, I always come across these places with impeccable sound,” Rukab explains. “When we go out in Houston, I get a headache or we have to scream. When I started looking around, I noticed no one has proper room treatments or proper sound. That was the first thing I wanted to focus on, and then everything else would follow.”

    To achieve the proper sound, Rukab invested in a high-end stereo system made with premium components, obsessing over details like amplifiers and speaker cable. A hand-built, Japanese-made rotary mixer from Alpha Recording Systems allows DJs to mix tracks between Casalu’s two turntables. Custom-built speakers from German manufacturer H.A.N.D. Hi-Fi ensure clean sound at both low and high volumes.

    “I toured everywhere to look for speakers,” Rukab says. “[H.A.N.D.] makes bespoke speaker systems for restaurants and cafes and bars and homes all over the world. They talk to you about what you want. Everything is custom-made. Everything is designed for the space.”

    A rotating cast of local and regional DJs will make regular appearances at Casalu. Genres will run the gamut, with everything from jazz and French house to ’80s music, disco, and more. Like Rukab, general manager Omar Azhari has hospitality experience and has performed as a DJ. Together, they’re curating a list of performers that will also include live musicians.

    “We’re going to play music as it was intended to be listened to from the recording studio, with minimal distortion,” Rukab says.

    Rukab let his own taste guide the bar’s interior design. It has the feel of a well-curated living room, with a mix of seating options that includes tables for two, booths for larger groups, and, of course, seats at the bar. An outdoor patio brings Casalu’s total capacity to about 130 people.

    Bar manager Fatima Imanli created a cocktail menu that nods to Rukab’s Palestinian heritage by including Mediterranean ingredients. For example, the Closing Track combines espresso and tequila with date-cardamom syrup. Similarly, the Fig & Vinyl blends bourbon with caramelized figs, and the Midnight Luce is an espresso martini riff that’s made with a tahini syrup. As part of a commitment to avoid processed sugars, all of the bar’s syrups are made with either honey or agave nectar.

    In addition to cocktails, Casalu offers a tidy selection of wines by the glass or bottle and a few beers. Houston roaster Greenway Coffee is working with Casalu on its coffee program, which is powered by the espresso machine that had been installed at Paulie’s, the neighborhood Italian restaurant that closed last year.

    Casalu’s limited food menu also takes inspiration from the Mediterranean. Customers will find options like hummus, olives, labneh, cheese, charcuterie, and more.

    After a quiet soft opening, Rukab is feeling good about the investment he made in Casalu. Feedback has been positive, and people seem to appreciate what he’s created.

    “We’ve had a great reaction. I couldn’t ask for more,” he says. “It’s a dream when they say ‘wow.’ Those are the best words coming out of somebody’s mouth.”

    Casalu is located at 1001 Missouri St. It’s open from 3 pm to midnight Monday through Thursday, and from 3 pm to 2 am Friday and Saturday. Reservations are available online.

    Casalu listening bar

    Courtesy of Casalu

    Grab a seat at the bar.

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