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    Meet The Tastemakers

    The 9 best chefs in Houston lead the way as creators and mentors

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 17, 2017 | 12:40 pm

    By any measure, Houston has achieved unprecedented levels of national attention for its diverse culinary scene. While lots of people deserve attention for the work they do to contribute to the city's overall success, these nine chefs selected as finalists for the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Chef of the Year are helping lead the way both as the creators of dishes that people want to eat and by mentoring the city’s next generation of culinary talent.

    That many of them are known for being inspired by Texas and the Gulf Coast also speaks to the simple truth that our local culinary traditions can hold their own with those from other parts of the country and the world. But of course, we’re also pretty excited about chefs who share their homeland’s culinary heritage with us, too.

    As selected by our panel of restaurant industry experts, these nine men represent Houston’s culinary vanguard. Join us tomorrow (April 18) at Asia Society Texas for the Tastemaker Awards party where we’ll celebrate all of the nominees and emcee Bryan Caswell will reveal the winners. Tickets are going fast. Don’t miss out.

    Manabu Horiuchi, Kata Robata
    The unofficial title of “other chefs favorite chef” applies to a few members of this list, but a plurality would probably cite Hori-san as a top choice. His delicate knife work and creative use of ingredients mean that Kata’s off-the-menu specials are always worth sampling, and its status as Houston’s best sushi restaurant is secure. Those skills earned him a James Beard semifinalist nod this year. For the full Hori-san experience, nothing beats an omakase tasting where the chef prepares a number of dishes using the ingredients he’s most excited about that day. It also allows diners to experience his generous nature and sly sense of humor.

    Ronnie Killen, Killen’s Restaurants
    Over the last year or so, Killen has stayed busy by relocating his eponymous steakhouse to a new larger location, opened a high-quality burger joint, began serving his celebrated barbecue at NRG Stadium, and launched Killen’s STQ, which has been so popular that prime tables get booked as far as two months in advance. Credit the chef’s relentless drive to be the best for all his success, as well as an eye for talent that’s allowed him to staff his restaurants with dedicated professionals who keep everything running smoothly. While he could take a pause and enjoy his status as the city’s king of meat, he’s already said he’s looking to expand his barbecue restaurant to a new location.

    Graham Laborde, Bernadine's/Hunky Dory
    Having established Bernadine’s, the restaurant he named for his grandmother, as one of the city’s most reliable destinations for modern Southern cuisine, would probably be sufficient to earn Laborde, last year’s Rising Star Chef of the Year winner, a spot on this list. Since then, he’s been elevated to culinary director for both Bernadine’s and Hunky Dory, filling in the lead role after Richard Knight’s culinary departure. Despite Treadsack’s well-publicized struggles, Laborde still oversees two kitchen restaurants that turn out high quality food. Whatever the future holds for those concepts, his track record of success speaks to his talent, and that will serve him well anywhere.

    Bobby Matos, State of Grace
    The see-and-be-seen types who have mostly moved on from State of Grace to restaurants in River Oaks District are missing out on one of the city’s most satisfying dining experiences. Whether it’s staple dishes like the butter burger and roasted oysters or seasonal specials like fried softshell crab and crawfish risotto, chef Matos has become even more adept at creating dishes that embody State of Grace’s blend of classic flavors with modern techniques. For the full experience, sit at the chef’s counter in front of the hearth where the six-course menu mixes a few staple items with one-off riffs that demonstrate his diverse abilities.

    Hugo Ortega, H Town Restaurant Group
    That the luxurious Marriott Marquis recruited Ortega and his wife/business partner Tracy Vaught to open a restaurant inside the downtown hotel makes sense. At a place that traffics in iconic Houston images and named a sports bar for Houston Astros Hall of Famer Craig Biggio, what could be more Houston than Ortega, an immigrant who worked his way from dishwasher into a six-times James Beard award finalist that has established a wildly successful career by presenting authentic Mexican cuisine to eager diners?

    By this point in his career, the only question about Ortega is when the rest of the country will finally catch up and transform him from “six times James Beard award finalist” into Houston’s newest recipient of the coveted medallion. In a recent review, Texas Monthly food critic Pat Sharpe predicts Xochi might finally be the restaurant that pushes Ortega into the culinary stratosphere occupied by chefs like Enrique Olvera and Rick Bayless thanks to its innovative take on Oaxacan cuisine and prime location inside a high-profile hotel. If it does, at least we’ll get to say we knew him before he was a superstar.

    Ryan Pera, Agricole Hospitality
    Speaking of Houston chefs that don’t get enough national respect, what does Pera have to do to get a little more love? Coltivare’s use of high-quality, locally-sourced ingredients in Italian-inspired dishes makes it one of the city’s most consistently satisfying places to dine, and Revival Market’s comfortable fare remains as reliable as ever. Perhaps his restaurant inside George Bush Intercontinental Airport and whatever top secret project he and business partner Morgan Weber are planning in EaDo (rumors are swirling about possibilities including a pizza place, an upscale diner, a distillery, or possibly some combination of all three) will allow him to earn the recognition he so richly deserves.

    Chris Shepherd, One Fifth/Underbelly
    Visitors to One Fifth may be surprised to find Chris Shepherd shucking oysters instead of expediting or working the line, but the past year has brought a number of changes for the James Beard award winner, including the realization that he can’t be everywhere at once. Instead, he’s helping to train the next generation of top level talent, including Rising Star Chef of the Year nominee Gary Ly and Pastry Chef of the Year nominee Victoria Dearmond, all while plotting the course for One Fifth’s ambitious goal to change concepts every year. If that weren’t enough, his tireless energy has made Southern Smoke one of Houston’s best food events thanks to lots of high-profile talent and a great cause, raising hundreds of thousands of dollars to fight MS.

    Danny Trace
    The permanence of dishes like turtle soup, shrimp remoulade, and bananas Foster sometimes give diners the impression that not much changes at Brennan’s of Houston, but, as a recent throwback menu that included “steak Stanley” (filet mignon with horseradish cream sauce and bananas) demonstrated, finding the balance between classic and contemporary takes on the restaurant’s signature Creole cuisine requires finesse. For seven years as the restaurant’s executive chef, Trace both maintained that balance and the restaurant’s reputation as a culinary training ground, working with chefs including fellow Chef of the Year nominee Bobby Matos, former Rising Star Chef of the Year winner Patrick Feges (Southern Goods), and a host of others. With his surprising departure from the restaurant last month, all eyes on are Trace’s next move. Hopefully, he stays in Houston and allows diners to find out what his food tastes like when he doesn’t have to worry about dishes like steak Stanley.

    Justin Yu, Oxheart/Better Luck Tomorrow
    At the end of 1989’s Lovetown tour, at the height of their popularity after the success of the Joshua Tree and Rattle & Hum, U2 lead singer Bono told an audience that, “We have to go away and just dream it all up again.” Those dreams produced Achtung Baby, which represented a new musical direction and features some of the band’s most personal lyrics.

    Yu can probably relate to the sentiment. Rather than rest on the laurels that come with having won a James Beard award for his work at his acclaimed restaurant Oxheart, Yu opted to close the restaurant to embark in two new directions: the first, a bar called Better Luck Tomorrow with Bobby Heugel, the second, the still-unnamed restaurant that will open in the Oxheart space. While he’s been vague about his plans, other than that BLT will serve a patty melt (but not its namesake sandwich), a job posting on Facebook hints that it will still preserve Oxheart’s ethos of using high quality local products and changing the menu regularly. As long as the results are more Achtung Baby than Pop, everything will be just fine.

    Bobby Matos, State of Grace.

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    where to drink now

    9 more Houston bars with over-the-top Christmas decor and festive sips

    Brianna McClane
    Dec 12, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Endless Bummer Christmas
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Santa makes a visit to the underworld at Endless Bummer's holiday experience.

    Since one roundup of 14 bars isn’t enough for Houston’s holiday bar scene, here are even more festive spots transforming their spaces with lights, themes, and seasonal sips.

    Atlas Ultra Lounge
    There’s no need to be a Grinch — Whoville has arrived in the Galleria area for the season. Order a Grinchmas Glow Tree ($45) for the table — the mini Christmas tree is adorned with eight colorful ornaments filled with lemon drop shots — or select the Snowball Spritz ($55), a bottle of champagne accompanied with juice and cotton candy “snowballs.”

    Saturday brunches include photo ops with the Grinch and themed bites like Green Eggs and Who Biscuits. Who-Ville at Atlas Ultra Lounge runs through December 29. Atlas Ultra Lounge is open Monday-Thursday, 5 pm-12 am, Friday-Saturday, 5 pm-2 am, and Sunday, 11 am-12 am. Breakfast with the Grinch takes place every Saturday in December from 11 am–4 pm.

    Endless Bummer
    Take a detour to the underworld this holiday season at Endless Bummer, the speakeasy-style tiki bar by Beutelguese Beutelgeuse. At “A Very Bummer Christmas,” patrons can take a gander at the art installations while sipping from festive glassware. Highlights include the Son of a Nutcracker! ($26), a concoction for two of dark rum, cognac, and Grand Marnier served in a Christmas stocking-shaped oversized mug that is dramatically set alight. Reservations are not required. Endless Bummer is open Thursday-Saturday, 5 pm-12 am.

    Julep
    The halls are decked at Alba Huerta’s James Beard Award-winning cocktail bar. Not only is the main room aglow, but the newly opened parlor has been festooned with twinkling lights and neatly wrapped presents. Libations include a spiked hot cocoa with Reyka vodka and a cacao cordial; Apples and Whiskey with Bushmill’s, apple cider, lemon, honey, and ginger; and a Holiday Old Fashioned with gingerbread syrup. Julep is open Sunday-Wednesday from 4 pm-12a m, and Thursday-Saturday from 4 pm-2 am.

    Plume
    Oversized ornaments hang from the ceiling of this Shady Acres bar. With cocktails like the Cider Clause — a creation of blended scotch, American whiskey, and apple brandy or aged rum — holidays at Plume lean into the bar’s “Old Hollywood” vibe. Also, don't miss Chris's coquito — it's made from an old family recipe. Plume is open Tuesday-Thursday from 4 pm-2 am, Friday-Saturday from 3 pm-2 am, and Sunday from 1 pm-12 am.

    Starduster Lounge
    It’s “Cowboy Christmas at the Ole Dusty,” so slip on some boots and grab a hat. The neighborhood bar has trimmed the cactus, hung the chili pepper lights, and crafted holiday drinks for the occasion. The lineup includes movie nights (Elf and The Grinch on December 14, National Lampoon and Die Hard on December 21), along with a toy drive and gingerbread house making party on December 20 from 2-6 pm. Starduster Lounge is open Monday-Friday from 4 pm-2 am, and Saturday-Sunday from 2 pm-2 am.

    The Toasted Coconut
    Tiki meets tinsel at The Toasted Coconut. The beloved eatery takes Santa to the tropics this Christmas, with a fully blinged out bar. Featured cocktails include the frozen Coquito Parrandas with a Puerto Rican rum blend, caramelized coconut, and a spiced ginger tea, and the Luz de Maiz, a clarified oat milk punch starring Angel’s Envy bourbon and a nixta corn liqueur. Toasted Coconut is open Thursday-Friday, 4 pm-12 am; Saturday, 10 am-12 am; Sunday, 10 am-10 pm; and Tuesday-Wednesday, 4 pm-10 pm.

    IKTO - I Know the Owner
    Holiday cheer is easy to spot at this bar in the Heights, where bright Christmas lights catch the eye from the street. Seasonal sips such as the Mistletoe Margarita and Sugar Cookie Martini are featured on a limited-time $15 cocktail menu, while a $10 snack board comes loaded with treats like s’mores and a Pudgy’s cookie. Catch 8 pm showings of Home Alone 2 on Wednesday, December 17, and A Charlie Brown Christmas on Wednesday, December 23. IKTO is open Tuesday-Sunday from 2 pm-12 am.

    Chicken N Pickle
    Pop in for brunch with Santa on Sunday, December 14 and 21 at this pickleball-focused spot. The Webster location leans into ski-lodge décor with a build-your-own spiked hot chocolate bar, crackling fireplaces, and a flight of cocktails delivered on a miniature ski. Chicken N Pickle is open Friday from 11 am-12 am, Saturday from 10 am-12 am, Sunday from 10 am-10 pm, and Monday-Thursday from 11 am-11 pm.

    Wonder Bar
    This Midtown hotspot continues its annual tradition of over-the-top holiday installations. Expect vibrant art, Instagram-ready moments — including a giant gift box photo op — plus interactive elements ranging from a chilly ice room with Sasquatch to other quirky themed spaces. Wonder Bar is open daily from 4 pm–2 am.

    Endless Bummer Christmas

    Photo by Sergio Trevino

    Santa makes a visit to the underworld at Endless Bummer's holiday experience.

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