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    Restaurant Secrets

    Restaurant secrets: Houston's top chefs open up on what drove them into the kitchen

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Apr 12, 2014 | 8:58 am

    “For me cooking started as a necessity, grew to a core and developed into passion,” says Shannen Tune, executive chef at Hotel Derek. “I come from a family of great cooks and everything revolved around food.”

    I love food, too. And when I used to entertain a lot, people always said, “You should be a chef and have your own restaurant!”

    Uh, no. I worked as a waitress in college, I cover restaurants and interview a lot of chefs and spend time in the kitchens and front of house. I would never, ever do that.

    But thank God, some folks do.

    Ronnie Killen, of steakhouse and BBQ fame, says he does it to make people happy. “People always love the chef!” And that’s true.

    But Ben Rabbani, formerly of El Big Bad never wanted to be a chef. “I always wanted to be a cook. Cooks have all the fun.”

    And apparently bakers. For Vanessa O’Donnell of Ooh La La Desserts baking brings back childhood memories of licking the bowl and tasting desserts fresh out of the oven. “If I can give someone else those same feelings and memories, it would make me happy,” she says.

    Ronnie Killen, of steakhouse and BBQ fame, says he does it to make people happy. “People always love the chef!” And that’s true.

    For some it is a calling, plain and simple. Chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio says, “Everyone is blessed with a gift in life, being a chef is mine.”

    But it’s tough work. Chef Jose Hernandez: “You can work 12 hour days (if not more) and most nights and holidays. Your social life will be limited, but you will want nothing more than to cook for a living.”

    But being a chef can have some perks as the French chef Philippe Schmit explains. “I always dreamed of traveling and one great advantage of become a chef is that I knew that from day one, thanks to my cooking teacher Mr. Coustou, it would allow me to come to the U.S. because I was obsessed by food,” he says.

    But one of the best answers to Why I Became a Chef was from Chandler Rothbard, formerly of BRC Gastropub and the now-closed Roots. I asked him that question once and he explained a rather unusual childhood.

    “I spent 10 months at Paradise Cove in Western Samoa when I was a young teen. The food was so bad we were all malnourished, but if you got a care package from home with spices in it you could make something edible. That’s when I got interested in cooking.”

    Now, in case you missed all the news stories about World Wide Association of Specialty Programs and Schools and the investigations of their “behavioral modification programs for teens,” in the last decade, the programs and schools were very controversial. They are now closed and there are still lawsuits pending.

    Paradise Cove was apparently one of the worst since it operated offshore. Basically it was a high priced tough love camp that made the Green Lake Camp from Holes look like a four-star resort.

    Then there’s this on choosing the chef's life from Randy Rucker: “Reckon it's the only thing I am decent at and could make a living doing.”

    Finally there’s this from chef Tune: “I also knew that there is no office job that could handle my antics. The kitchen was the only place where we could put out 100 plates of perfection and at the end of the night douse someone in marinara if it was theri last day.”

    Well, that explains it. I love my job but I can’t even dump a vat of marinara sauce over someone’s head. Even though I’ve wanted to do it.

    For Vanessa O’donnell of Ooh La La Desserts baking brings back childhood memories of licking the bowl and tasting desserts fresh out of the oven “If I can give someone else those same feelings and memories, it would make me happy,” she says.

    Vanessa O'Donnel Ooh La La horizontal
    Photo by Kimberly Park
    For Vanessa O’donnell of Ooh La La Desserts baking brings back childhood memories of licking the bowl and tasting desserts fresh out of the oven “If I can give someone else those same feelings and memories, it would make me happy,” she says.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars

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