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    Restaurant Secrets

    Restaurant secrets: Houston's top chefs open up on what drove them into the kitchen

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Apr 12, 2014 | 8:58 am

    “For me cooking started as a necessity, grew to a core and developed into passion,” says Shannen Tune, executive chef at Hotel Derek. “I come from a family of great cooks and everything revolved around food.”

    I love food, too. And when I used to entertain a lot, people always said, “You should be a chef and have your own restaurant!”

    Uh, no. I worked as a waitress in college, I cover restaurants and interview a lot of chefs and spend time in the kitchens and front of house. I would never, ever do that.

    But thank God, some folks do.

    Ronnie Killen, of steakhouse and BBQ fame, says he does it to make people happy. “People always love the chef!” And that’s true.

    But Ben Rabbani, formerly of El Big Bad never wanted to be a chef. “I always wanted to be a cook. Cooks have all the fun.”

    And apparently bakers. For Vanessa O’Donnell of Ooh La La Desserts baking brings back childhood memories of licking the bowl and tasting desserts fresh out of the oven. “If I can give someone else those same feelings and memories, it would make me happy,” she says.

    Ronnie Killen, of steakhouse and BBQ fame, says he does it to make people happy. “People always love the chef!” And that’s true.

    For some it is a calling, plain and simple. Chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio says, “Everyone is blessed with a gift in life, being a chef is mine.”

    But it’s tough work. Chef Jose Hernandez: “You can work 12 hour days (if not more) and most nights and holidays. Your social life will be limited, but you will want nothing more than to cook for a living.”

    But being a chef can have some perks as the French chef Philippe Schmit explains. “I always dreamed of traveling and one great advantage of become a chef is that I knew that from day one, thanks to my cooking teacher Mr. Coustou, it would allow me to come to the U.S. because I was obsessed by food,” he says.

    But one of the best answers to Why I Became a Chef was from Chandler Rothbard, formerly of BRC Gastropub and the now-closed Roots. I asked him that question once and he explained a rather unusual childhood.

    “I spent 10 months at Paradise Cove in Western Samoa when I was a young teen. The food was so bad we were all malnourished, but if you got a care package from home with spices in it you could make something edible. That’s when I got interested in cooking.”

    Now, in case you missed all the news stories about World Wide Association of Specialty Programs and Schools and the investigations of their “behavioral modification programs for teens,” in the last decade, the programs and schools were very controversial. They are now closed and there are still lawsuits pending.

    Paradise Cove was apparently one of the worst since it operated offshore. Basically it was a high priced tough love camp that made the Green Lake Camp from Holes look like a four-star resort.

    Then there’s this on choosing the chef's life from Randy Rucker: “Reckon it's the only thing I am decent at and could make a living doing.”

    Finally there’s this from chef Tune: “I also knew that there is no office job that could handle my antics. The kitchen was the only place where we could put out 100 plates of perfection and at the end of the night douse someone in marinara if it was theri last day.”

    Well, that explains it. I love my job but I can’t even dump a vat of marinara sauce over someone’s head. Even though I’ve wanted to do it.

    For Vanessa O’donnell of Ooh La La Desserts baking brings back childhood memories of licking the bowl and tasting desserts fresh out of the oven “If I can give someone else those same feelings and memories, it would make me happy,” she says.

    Vanessa O'Donnel Ooh La La horizontal
    Photo by Kimberly Park
    For Vanessa O’donnell of Ooh La La Desserts baking brings back childhood memories of licking the bowl and tasting desserts fresh out of the oven “If I can give someone else those same feelings and memories, it would make me happy,” she says.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    COMING ATTRACTIONS

    San Antonio coffee shop brews up plans for third Houston café

    Brandon Watson
    Jun 12, 2026 | 3:04 pm
    Merit Coffee Co.
    Merit Coffee Co./ Facebook
    Merit Coffee Co. will open three Houston locations by the end of 2026.

    San Antonio’s acclaimed Merit Coffee is continuing its Houston expansion. After taking over a former Starbucks at 5115 Buffalo Speedway in July, the Texas chain will open two more Bayou City coffee shops in winter 2026.

    One of those two cafés, in the historic Swift Building in the Heights, was previously announced, but the chain has newly revealed that it will also debut a third shop at Greenside in Memorial City. Both are being developed by Houston’s Radom Capitol.

    Founded in 2009 as Local Coffee, the chain now has 14 locations in Austin, Dallas, and its San Antonio home base. The business has earned accolades in all of its markets, including a 2025 CultureMap Dallas Tastemaker Award for Best Coffee Shop.

    Merit’s beans, sourced from growers in Central/South America and Africa and roasted locally, might already be familiar to Houstonians who shop at H-E-B, Central Market, or Whole Foods Market. But soon the city’s coffee lovers will have access to an in-person Merit Coffee experience.

    "For years, we've dreamed about bringing Merit to Houston," said Bill Ellis, CEO of Merit Coffee, in a release. "Houston has one of the most exciting food and beverage cultures anywhere in the country, and we've been intentional about finding the right neighborhoods, partners, and opportunities to establish roots here."

    Merit takes pride in making sure each physical location reflects its neighborhood. The website includes line drawings of each café, which range from a 1900 stone house in Austin to a sleek glass storefront in Dallas.

    The menus are largely the same at each outpost. In addition to all the classic espresso drinks, Merit also serves matcha, hōjicha tea, refreshers, and playful creations like a latte made with raspberry purée and almond ricotta cold foam.

    Each city’s shops also partner with locally owned bakeries. All upcoming Houston locations will feature sweet and savory pastries from Houston’s Cake & Bacon.

    "Cake & Bacon embodies everything we love about Houston's culinary scene, and we're excited to showcase their incredible work,” said Ellis.

    Merit Coffee has not revealed the exact opening dates for any of its Houston locations. More details will be announced via social media later in the summer.

    houstoncoffeechainsopeningsnews-you-can-eatmemorial-city
    news/restaurants-bars

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