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Dorsia is dead: Pretentious "members-only" club to be replaced by new restaurant with chef cred

Dorsia is dead: Pretentious "members-only" club to be replaced by new restaurant with chef cred

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Dorsia doors are soon to close to open again as Hawthorn. Photo via Dorsia/Facebook
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Chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio Courtesy of Sabetta Café & Wine Bar
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It says something about the popularity of "exclusive," members-only club Dorsia that it's been closed for a month and no one seemed to notice.

So what does one do with a bad concept in a gorgeous space? In this case, the answer is change up the management and turn it into a restaurant.

Hawthorn, named after a local indigenous tree, is set to open in late April with Dorsia's executive chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio, who was making great Italian food at Sabetta before cooking for pretty people in a nightclub.

The space on Kirby will still be full of dark woods, adding local art on the walls and a piano in the central bar area. The intimate dining room will be to the right of the entrance and the bar, with a private dining room to seat 12 and a chef's table of up to eight in the former lounge spaces on the left side of the building.

 The space on Kirby will still be full of dark woods, adding local art on the walls and a piano in the central bar area. 

"Hawthorn will create a first-class experience for all guests and will synergize the elements of current — but not trendy — menu offerings and wine pairings with old-school charm and service to provide great evenings for our guests,” general manager Cory Graff says.

The menu is described as New American with notes of Italian and Mediterranean influence, reflecting the chef's heritage, with a focus on local flavors and simple dishes marrying two or three ingredients on a plate. A sample menu includes classics like Muscovy duck breast, risotto, char-grilled baby octopus, rose ravioli and house-made ricotta cheesecake. The wine list will include more than 300 bottles from around the world.

Dorsia's vice president of business development and public face was Kalon Joseph Reid McMahon, who is now being buzzed about as Houston's likely latest Bachelorette reality TV contestant.