Foodie News
The artichoke finally gets its due: New menu at Backstreet Café focuses on thequirky green
Backstreet Café's delish shrimp-stuffed artichoke bottomPhoto by Paula Murphy
Artichoke saladPhoto by Paula Murphy
A disappointing asparagus risottoPhoto by Sarah Rufca
Fried baby artichokes and marinaraPhoto by Sarah Rufca
A creamy (but not heavy) spinach and artichoke dipartichokePhoto by Sarah Rufca
Seasonal menus and local ingredients have been all the rage for years, but never before have I seen a menu devoted to my favorite vegetable — the bitter, beautiful, buttery artichoke.
The selection of a dozen or so artichoke-inflected entrees and appetizers is on offer at Backstreet Café through the end of April. It's Backstreet's first time presenting a spring menu devoted to the quirky green, replacing the usual focus on crawfish before May, when tomatoes get their turn.
I started with the spinach and artichoke dip (daringly referred to as the "best ever") and the fried baby artichokes, two appetizers that have a tendency to get very heavy under normal circumstances. However the dip was fresh, and except for the melted cheese on top there was no heavy cream base, giving the spread a lighter and more delicious character.
The fried artichokes were lightly breaded and crunched nicely. They reminded me more of fried squash than anything, which I find interesting since I wouldn't say that squash and artichoke are generally the most similar flavors. Combined with the marinara dipping sauce, it was a decent combination, but I didn't think the frying did much to bring out the artichoke flavor I was craving.
My favorite dish of the day was the shrimp-stuffed artichoke bottom, a buttery, zesty, delicious dish that was admittedly more about the shrimp (and the breadcrumbs and the lemon) then the artichoke, but was amazing nonetheless.
The only dish that didn't work for me was the asparagus risotto. That's admittedly partly because in my glance at the menu I was assuming it was artichoke and not asparagus, but I like asparagus too. I didn't like it on the risotto though. Unlike Backstreet's delightful cauliflower risotto, the slightly al dente rice just didn't gel with the asparagus flavor, and with the baby green beans mixed in and only a light dusting of shaved parmesan cheese to add richness, I couldn't escape the feeling of a kid being forced to eat her bland vegetables.
But despite that, there's a lot to like on the artichoke menu, from the simple steamed whole artichoke to a creamy baby artichoke chowder or artichoke flatbread.
It's nice to see the quirky artichoke, so often a supporting player, take center stage and shine.
Find Taste of Gold near gate A8. Courtesy of Houston Airports