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    Food for Thought

    Keep your crawfish, the best crab cakes in Houston bring the real seafooddelights

    Marene Gustin
    Mar 6, 2012 | 10:44 am
    • I prefer the loose kind, the kind usually found at high-end steakhouses like DelFrisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse. Now that is one fine crab cake.
      Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse/Facebook
    • I was watching an old Friends rerun the other day. OK, yeah, I know that’s lame,but it was the only thing on and I was bored. A blind date stands up Ross...andthe waiter gives him free crab cakes.
      NBC
    • I wanted to see what else was out there, crab cake-wise, so I wound up at PappasSeafood House on South Shepherd Drive.
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    Up this week: Seafood.

    I know I should really be writing about crawdad boils and how the Texas oyster season is on again, but lately I find myself obsessed with crab.

    Specifically crab cakes.

    See, I was watching an old Friends rerun the other day. OK, yeah, I know that’s lame but it was the only thing on and I was bored.

    Anyway. It was the one where a blind date stands up Ross. Although he really isn’t stood up because . . . eh, never mind.

    There are two kinds of crab cakes: Those that are loosely packed with huge, tender lumps of blue crab and only lightly coated bread crumbs and those that resemble more of a tightly packed seafood croquette.

    Let’s start again. So, anyway, the waiter gives him free crab cakes.

    Which of course instantly reminded me that I haven’t had a good crab cake in ages.

    The way I see it, there are two kinds of crab cakes: Those that are loosely packed with huge, tender lumps of blue crab and only lightly coated bread crumbs and those that resemble more of a tightly packed seafood croquette. I prefer the loose kind, the kind usually found at high-end steakhouses like Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse.

    Now that is one fine crab cake, as are the jumbo lump crab cakes with roasted red pepper and lime butter sauce at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar.

    But I wanted to see what else was out there, crab cake-wise so I wound up at Pappas Seafood House on South Shepherd Drive. I like this spot, also known as Lil Pap, because of the kind of folks that hang out there. It’s intimate and a little noisy when crowded, but they make a mean bloody Mary, which always goes well with seafood. Oh, and then there’s the hot loaf of crusty bread that starts off every meal.

    But how are the crab cakes there?

    I’d never tried them before so I ordered one. They come as two to an order but you can get just one, which after snarfing up half a loaf of just-out-of-the-oven bread was about all I wanted.

    The presentation was very nice: A big, fat crab cake sitting in a pool of white wine butter sauce with capers, cooked tomatoes and crawfish tails next to a mountain of shoe string potatoes. But I wasn’t too sure when I saw that the cake had a uniform patty shape and crunchy crust all around. But not to worry, once you cut into it, the insides are loosely packed, juicy lump crab meat.

    It’s like they combined both kinds of crab cakes in one. And the tomato, capers and sauce added a wonderful fragrant taste to the crab meat.

    I offered Dad a taste but he declined.

    “I don’t really like crab cakes,” he said.

    Hmmm. Undaunted I decided to make crab cakes the next night for dinner.

    But, being under a deadline (like, when am I not?) I opted to buy the pre-made cakes at Whole Foods Market. The seafood counter there has a wonderful selection of fresh fish and seafood and they make some pretty good stuff in the kitchen there like the salmon candy and stuffed tilapia.

    Turned out they had a couple of different kinds of crab cakes ready to heat. I went with the Maryland style blue crab cakes and asked about the best way to cook them. I usually bake crab cakes, or put them on the grill during good weather but the fish monger suggested I just sauté them in a little olive oil or butter. About 10 minutes on each side, he said.

    I went with the oil since I still have a lot leftover from the olive oil story. Unfortunately, I haven’t been in the kitchen that much lately and forgot my stove was made by NASA engineers and that the medium setting for the burners is equal to a nuclear meltdown.

    So, yes, I burnt them a little. But I thought I made up for it by whipping up a mustard tartar sauce with capers, which did turn out pretty well.

    “That was really good,” he said. “Reminds me of the ones your Mom used to make.”

    So I plated up dinner and headed to Dad’s apartment just down the hall.

    “What’s that?”

    “Crab cakes,” I chirped. And quickly added, “It’s for work.”

    He rolled his eyes. “I’ll get the forks.”

    Despite the slightly blackened bottom, they were pretty good, although they are more of a tightly packed cake with smaller pieces of crab meat. I didn’t eat the bottom but I licked up the sauce mentally adding the brown mustard tartar sauce to my cooking repertory.

    And then I glanced over at Dad’s plate.

    It was empty. Not even a trace of the blackened crust.

    “That was really good,” he said. “Reminds me of the ones your Mom used to make.”

    Now Mom never made crab cakes that I recall, but she did make salmon patties when I was young. And, yes, they were called patties and not croquettes. They were small, densely packed patties with too much breading and made from canned salmon that was a color of pink not found in nature. My sister remembers them as possibly edible.

    But than that’s the point of dining with Dad. It’s about reconnecting with my past, remembering where I’m from and having someone to share those half-forgotten moments with.

    I really want to buy some fresh lump crab meat and make some from scratch, but then I doubt Dad would like them as much.

    Or, maybe I’ll just wait until there’s a new crab cake food truck because, really, how far away can that be?

    unspecified
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    Top restaurant stories of 2025

    Major closures, celeb sightings, more top Houston restaurant news 2025

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 26, 2025 | 1:15 pm
    Austin Simmons Charolais restaurant headshot
    Courtesy of Chef Austin Simmons
    Austin Simmons is opening Charolais by Chef Austin Simmons.

    Editor’s note: Readers turn to CultureMap to stay informed on all the latest Houston restaurant news, but some stories grab more people’s attention than others. As always, closings rank highly, taking seven of the 10 places on this list. What’s notable is that the closings included both restaurants open for more than 25 years as well as a steakhouse that closed in less than two years. While the results are mostly doom-and-gloom, we found joy in one of America’s most famous former athletes surprising the diners at popular Houston restaurant — and leaving one lucky waiter a tip worth celebrating.

    Here are the 10 most-read CultureMap restaurant and bar stories of 2025.

    1. Houston chef breaks his silence on sudden exit from Woodlands restaurant. Speaking exclusively to CultureMap, chef Austin Simmons explained the reasons for his surprising departure from Tris, including a dispute with the restaurant’s owner over interior renovations. After taking some time to focus on his Chef & Rancher beef company, Simmons announced in September that he’ll open Charolais by Chef Austin Simmons in the Hughes Landing district. Scheduled to open in April, the restaurant will also have a companion butcher shop that sells meat from Chef & Rancher.

    2. Pioneering Houston Mexican restaurant will shutter after 44 years. Chef Arnaldo Richards announced his intention to close his Mexican restaurant Picos. He cited a number of factors, including a decline in business and the death of his brother Alex. Due to an overwhelmingly enthusiastic response from Houstonians, Picos extended its closing until early 2026.

    3. Houston restaurant served Beyoncé a Southern feast for her first meal in H-Town. When Beyoncé Knowles-Carter returned to Houston for two sold-out shows at NRG Stadium, she and her family turned to downtown restaurant Taste Kitchen + Bar for a Southern feast. The epic spread included jerk lamb chops with deep-fried lobster, smothered chicken with collard greens, and the restaurant’s signature chicken and waffles. Later that weekend, Taste chef-owner Don Bowie shared a photo with Jay-Z.

    4. Shaquille O'Neal leaves $1,000 tip at Houston Tex-Mex institution. The NBA Hall-of-Famer, media personality, and restaurateur dined at Ninfa’s Uptown in July. Sitting in the main dining room, he posed for pictures with both fans and the restaurant’s staff. After dining on crispy tacos, he left his server a very generous tip.

    5. James Harden's Houston restaurant locked out over $2.2 million in unpaid rent. The former Houston Rocket’s tenure as a restaurant owner came to an abrupt end in September, when the building’s landlord locked out Thirteen for non-payment of rent. Harden opened Thirteen in 2021, shortly after he left the Rockets for the Brooklyn Nets. In July, he signed a two-year, $81.5 million contract with the Los Angeles Clippers.

    6. Award-winning Houston steakhouse will close after only 2 years. Although it has achieved success and spots in the Michelin Guide with both Candente and The Pit Room, Sambrooks Hospitality couldn’t find an audience for Andiron, its live fire steakhouse in Montrose. Even after pivoting to a more affordable menu, Andiron wasn’t financially viable. New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre claimed the space for Casa Kenji, a new seafood restaurant that blends Japanese and Latin influences.

    7. Surprise chef resignation shutters The Woodlands' best restaurant. Chef Austin Simmons took two spots in this year’s top 10. The sudden closure of Tris, a fine dining steakhouse that drew celebrities such as Joe Rogan, shocked the Houston community. Bari Ristorante, an Italian restaurant in River Oaks District, will open its second location in the space in early 2026.

    8. Top-rated Houston restaurant will close after 8 years in Montrose. Chef Ryan Lachaine cited the increased costs of operating a restaurant when he announced he would close Riel at the end of August. Food enthusiasts and hospitality workers flooded the restaurant for one final meal of caviar tots, pierogies, and other fan favorites. Lachaine found a new position as the executive chef of River Oaks restaurants State of Grace.

    9. Beloved Houston Italian restaurant will close after 27 years in Montrose. Surely one of this year’s saddest closures is Paulie’s, the Italian restaurant in Montrose, and its companion wine bar Camerata. Owner Paul Petronella said he was unable to agree on lease terms with the building’s landlord. Since the announcement, fans have lined up for one last meal of pastas, salads, and decorated shortbread cookies.

    10. Meet the men behind Houston's most under-the-radar Italian restaurant. In this episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, Mimo owners Mike Sammons and chef Fernando Rios share how working together at Da Marco became the basis of a friendship and business partnership. In addition to discussing their decision to open Mimo and how it has achieved success, the episode also includes insights from both men on Marco Wiles, the pioneering Houston chef and restaurateur behind Da Marco, Vinoteca Poscol, and the late, lamented Dolce Vita pizzeria.

    Austin Simmons Charolais restaurant headshot
    Courtesy of Chef Austin Simmons
    Austin Simmons is opening Charolais by Chef Austin Simmons.
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