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    Mellow Yelo

    Imaginative new Vietnamese restaurant and sandwich shop unwraps in Katy

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 2, 2021 | 11:17 am

    Destination-worthy banh mi have arrived in Katy. Yelo Banh Mi Artisans opened quietly last week, the restaurant announced.

    Roughly a year in the making, Yelo unites Phat Eatery chef-owner Alex Au-Yeung with chef Cuc Lam. Originally conceived as a sit down concept, Yelo now offers a mostly to-go experience with just 12 seats inside and three outdoor tables. Despite the changes, Lam expresses optimism about the restaurant's potential.

    “It’s a wonderful, happy brand that speaks for itself, and that takes a lot of the pressure off of me. When a brand is not centered around one person, you’re doing it right,” she said in a statement. “And, of course, you want the food to taste good and be consistent, but the part of it that we want to make sure we deliver consistently is customer service, making our guests feel comfortable and valued. As long as we can say we made that effort, we're happy.”

    Diners had the opportunity to preview Yelo during its brief run as part of Au-Yeung's ghost kitchen concept Phat Kitchen. Lam's menu of both traditional and creative banh mi quickly won fans.

    In restaurant form, Yelo offers both familiar sandwiches such as lemongrass chicken and crispy tofu that set themselves apart by using pickled carrot and mango in place of the traditional carrot and daikon, housemade pate and garlic aioli, and bread with the right combination of crunch and chew. Lam's original creations include sandwiches stuffed with Phat Eatery's signature beef rendang, the "Pho-Rench Dip" with pho vegetables and dipping sauce, and an innovative take on Vietnamese meatballs (xiu mai) that carry the flavors of Chinese BBQ.

    “My heritage is Chinese and Vietnamese, and my mom has cooked this xiu mai for us my entire life,” Lam said. “No other Vietnamese places serve it this way, but it’s because in her version, she serves it with a Chinese barbecue marinade. It’s a dish close to my heart because it reminds me of my family.”

    The menu also includes rice and vermicelli bowls that can be topped with different proteins, Vietnamese egg rolls, mango-papaya-shrimp spring rolls, and chili crab rangoons. Beverage options include specialty coffee drinks such as Vietnamese iced coffees and ube and pandan lattes as well as five juices.

    Find Yelo in Katy Asian Town next to Phat Eatery (23119 Colonial Pkwy, Suite B-3); the restaurant opens for lunch and dinner daily beginning at 11 am.

    Yelo serves a wide selection of banh mi.

    Yelo Banh Mis
    Photo by Isabel Protomartir
    Yelo serves a wide selection of banh mi.
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    Bernadine's Revived?

    Houston chef takes flight with new Gulf Coast seafood spot in the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 4, 2026 | 9:01 am
    Southern Smoke Festival 2022 Graham Laborde Paige Gallaspy Laborde
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
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    Everything old is new again for Graham Laborde. The chef, a co-owner of Midtown sandwich favorite Winnie’s, will open a new, Gulf Coast-inspired seafood restaurant in the Heights called Little Bird.

    If that sounds familiar, it’s because Laborde once led Bernadine’s, a “love letter” to Gulf Coast cuisine that operated in the Heights from 2015 until 2017. While Little Bird is a distinct restaurant with its own identity, diners with a long enough memory will certainly see some commonalities between the two restaurants.

    “I’m a firm believer in playing to my strengths, I don’t think any of the cooking I’ve done either at Bernadine’s or Winnie’s or Little Bird, which you’ll soon see, does anything but play to my strengths,” Laborde tells CultureMap. You can’t change who you are. This is the cuisine I know and love. It’s what I’m best at. I’m excited to do it.”

    Laborde has claimed the former Flying Fish/The Kid space (1815 N. Durham) for Little Bird, which is just around the corner from where Bernadine’s used to be (it’s now Star Rover). Plans call for about 150 seats, private dining rooms, and an air-conditioned patio. Details include a hand-carved wooden oyster bar and a mural by Houston artists Whitney Garrett-Yarbrough and Dayle Booth.

    The menu is still under development, but don’t be surprised if at least a couple of Bernadine’s dishes show up. “I’ve grown a lot over the last 10 years. I think that my style, my palate has grown a lot, too. The menu is a work in progress, but I’m excited to hammer it out,” he says.

    Adding to the “getting the band back together” vibe are some of the people helping Laborde bring Little Bird to life. Julia Doran, who served as Bernadine’s pastry chef before a length stint at Nancy’s Hustle and Tiny Champions, is consulting on the dessert program. Chelsea Thomas, formerly Bernadine’s assistant general manager, will serve as general manager at the new restaurant (full disclosure: Thomas is a regular contributor to CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). Bartender Justin Ware, director of operations for Winnie’s, Johnny’s Gold Brick, and Starduster Lounge, will oversee Little Bird’s beverage offerings.

    The chef is excited to be back in the Heights, a neighborhood he knows well.

    “I first moved to the Heights straight from New Orleans. I noticed Heights Blvd had a middle ground. It made the transition so much easier,” Laborde says. “I’ve lived in the Heights and Garden Oaks for 16 years. It’s my home. I’m thrilled to be back here.”

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