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    Food for Thought

    The best breakfast in Houston? Brunch & Dr. Pepper are great, but there's moreto morning life

    Marene Gustin
    Feb 24, 2012 | 12:02 pm
    • Eggs in a Basket: This is the easiest breakfast dish I know. I got the idea fromwatching the movie V for Vendetta.
      Photo by Jack Appleby
    • You can get just about any breakfast item from any country in Houston, such asmasala eggs from Pondicheri.
      Photo by Ruthie Johnson Miller
    • For Eggs in a Basket, crack a fresh egg into the hole and salt and pepper totaste. That’s pretty much it.
      The Cracker Barrel
    • In my 20s, after a late night, breakfast might just be a can of Dr Pepper, whichis how I can understand Brad Pitt’s choice of breakfast beverages for his brood.
      Photo by Cyclone Bill
    • Occasionally, I steal some of Dad’s frozen banana slices, which is about theonly thing in his freezer that I want.
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    Breaking the nightly fast has never really been important to me.

    I know, I know. The government and doctors will tell you it’s the most important meal of the day, but I just never really got into it.

    This is probably because growing up Dad left really early in the morning, often while my mother was still asleep. So us kids stumbled to the kitchen in our PJs we usually found a breakfast of Tang (what the heck is that anyway? A powdered “fruit-flavored” drink?) and the cold cereal of the week. By the time I was in high school the morning feast was a cup of coffee and a cold Pop Tart.

    This went on for years, probably at least a decade before I realized I could cut about $200 a month out of my budget by kicking the Starbucks addiction.

    In my twenties, after a late night, it might just be a can of Dr Pepper, which is why I can understand Brad Pitt’s choice of breakfast beverages for his brood.

    And then there was the coffee drink craze in the mid 1990s when breakfast meant stopping at a ubiquitous Starbucks for a mocha on the way to the office. This went on for years, probably at least a decade before I realized I could cut about $200 a month out of my budget by kicking the Starbucks addiction.

    Nowadays I usually opt for a glass of almond milk, maybe a half cup of coffee. Occasionally, I steal some of Dad’s frozen banana slices, which is about the only thing in his freezer that I want. Certainly not the Jimmy Dean sausage biscuits. OK, maybe once in a while I’ve snagged one, but I can rarely eat all of it. They just don’t taste like real food.

    You would think for food writer that I would eat better than this. And every once in a while I do.

    I can cook up a mean breakfast myself, anything from biscuits and chocolate gravy to scrambled eggs with fresh herbs and sausage. But I only do this a couple of times a year because if you’re really hungry in the early hours of the day there’s no shortage of spots to hit in Houston.

    And there’s always grab and go: A handful of mini bagel dogs from The Hot Bagel Shop on South Shepherd Drive, the breakfast buffet at Whole Foods Markets, take-out from Avalon Diner or a frankie from Pondicheri. And there are a million places to get breakfast tacos or kolaches. In fact, you can get just about any breakfast item from any country in Houston.

    And still I find I wake up to almond milk and a newspaper.

    Unless it’s Sunday when brunch reigns supreme. Maybe it’s because brunch is latter in the morning, almost noontime. Actually it’s lunch for me, but on Sunday it's real breakfast food.

    Can you say egg white scramble with tomatoes and peppers, a strip or two of crispy bacon, a slice of cantaloupe and maybe some wings and waffles? Maybe there’s even a taste of dessert. And of course, bottomless mimosas.

    And I’ll whip up huge holiday brunches with bloody Mary’s and hash and egg casseroles.

    But brunch isn’t really breakfast, despite the omelet stations and fresh fruit platters and steam trays full of breakfast meats. I think maybe it’s all the drinking.

    So I’m back to the fact that I really don’t eat breakfast on a regular basis. That the oatmeal in the cupboard is probably from last winter and I’m afraid to look at the expiration dates on the yogurt and eggs in the fridge may also be part of the problem. But if the eggs were fresh, and I had some artisan bread (maybe from Slow Dough or Kraftsmen bakeries), this is what I would cook.

    Eggs in a Basket

    This is the easiest breakfast dish I know. I got the idea from watching the movie V for Vendetta (actually a lot of my best food ideas come from watching odd films) so I think it’s a British thing but my sister in Georgia also makes this dish and calls it a bird’s nest. It’s one of those dishes that seem to be made all over the globe with a plethora of different names but the taste is the same.

    Start with a thick slice of bread from an artisan loaf. Throw a little butter in a frying pan on medium heat. Use a shot glass (see how often drinking comes up in this column?) to punch out a hole in the middle of the bread and then toss it in the pan. Crack a fresh egg into the hole and salt and pepper to taste. That’s pretty much it.

    It takes about two minutes on each side, depending on how you like your eggs cooked. Just don’t let the toast burn. It’s quick, simple and tasty.

    So, maybe I’ll whip that up some morning.

    Or, maybe I’ll just grab a Dr Pepper and be done with it. Who am I to quibble with Brad Pitt?

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars
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