A Goode Man

Houstonians mourn death of restaurateur who transformed culinary scene with authentic Texas BBQ

Since 1977, Goode Co. BBQ has served as a taste of Texas for Houstonians and out-of-towners alike.

Houstonians are mourning the loss of a man who changed the way the city eats. James Douglas "Jim" Goode passed away February 2 at the age of 71 from Alzheimer's, according to a report in the Chronicle.

In 1977, Goode changed Houston's culinary history when he purchased the BBQ Barn on Kirby for $6,000. Slowly, with the help of his uncle Joe Dixie, Goode began to find an audience for the style of barbecue that he enjoyed eating during his childhood on the Gulf Coast. His obituary recalls the day he sold enough food to fill two bags of trash; "he held those bags over his head like the movie Rocky."

Whether for classics like smoked brisket and ribs or more exotic fare like duck, by the mid-'80s, Goode Co. BBQ became the place Houstonians would bring out-of-town friends and family for a taste of authentic Texas barbecue. Dining at Goode's restaurant always included leaving room for a slice of the restaurant's peerless pecan pie. Ultimately, a Goode Co. pecan pie in a wooden box would become a popular holiday treat for homesick Texans everywhere.

In 1983, Goode added Tex-Mex to his offerings by opening Goode Co. Taqueria and Hamburgers across the street from the barbecue restaurant. The mesquite-grilled burgers, tacos, and quail quickly became staples; the sort of place that would be a mandatory stop on the way home from the airport for a taste of Texas.

The addition of Goode Co. Seafood would complete the company's ability to serve Houstonians three of their most favorite types of food: barbecue, Tex-Mex and seafood. Known for its campechana, snapper preparations, and range of Gulf oysters, Goode Co. Seafood became the company's most upscale offering. Jim Goode's lifetime membership in the Coastal Conservation Association also reflected his passion for fishing and the Gulf Coast.

Now with three barbecue restaurants, two seafood restaurants, one Tex-Mex restaurant, the Armadillo Palace live music venue, and a thriving mail-order business, Goode Co. is a fixture of Houston's restaurant scene. "If success in this industry is defined by creating an establishment were folks can feel like they are at home and create lasting memories across generations, Jim Goode nailed it," Pappa Charlies owner Wes Jurena wrote Monday on Facebook.

Goode is survived by his son, Levi, who runs the family business, as well as his wife, Maria Cristina, two daughters, and six grandchildren. Visitation will be held Wednesday from 5 pm to 7 pm at Geo. H. Lewis & Sons, 1010 Bering Drive. Goode's funeral will be Thursday at 3 pm, also at Geo. H. Lewis & Sons.

In lieu of remembrances, the family requests that memorial contributions be sent to Cure Alzheimer's Fund, 34 Washington Street, Suite 200, Wellesley Hills, MA, 02481.

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One Day Only

Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

Photo by Quit Nguyen

Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.

LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

“Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

“With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

“It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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