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    Food News Roundup

    14 things to know about Houston dining right now: openings, closings, and 2 million matzo balls

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 31, 2018 | 4:22 pm

    Compared to the frenetic pace of the last few months, the pace of openings has slowed a bit, but Houston restaurants continue to generate lots of news. Here’s a quick look at all the recent happenings worth knowing.

    Chefs on the move
    A number of area chefs have changed jobs recently. Clark Cooper Concepts announced last week that it has “amicably separated” from longtime executive chef Brandi Key. The chef played an instrumental role in the company, contributing to the openings of (the now shuttered) Coppa Ristorante and its sibling Coppa Osteria, Punk’s Simple Southern Food, SaltAir Seafood Kitchen (closed last year), and The Dunlavy event space.

    Key tells CultureMap that she’s working on a self-described passion project called The Kitchen Key, which will teach “the basics of home cooking and cooking with kids through the use of multiple social media platforms.”

    Martha de Leon, the chef who won last year’s CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Rising Star of the Chef for her work at Pax Americana, has left her position to move to Seattle with her husband, Abe. Pax owner Dan Zimmerman tells CultureMap that Pax has hired de Leon’s replacement and will “have an entirely new menu in the next month or two as well as some planned cosmetic updates.”

    Former Underbelly sous chef Gary Ly has changed his plans. Originally tabbed for one of the concepts at downtown’s upcoming Bravery Chef Hall, Ly has instead decided to move to New York, to work as a sous chef at celebrity chef David Chang’s restaurant Momofuku. Diners can wish Ly bonne chance on February 6, when the chef will host a pop-up at Eight Row Flint devoted to the Lunar New Year with a bowl of wonton noodle soup with smoked pork broth and charred Chinese broccoli.

    Everything that’s old is new again at Boheme, where chef Rishi Singh has returned to the kitchen after a two-and-a-half year stint at downtown tapas restaurant Batanga. The chef’s influence can already been seen on the patio bar’s menu in dishes like smoked barbacoa tacos, shrimp toast, and a new pizza that uses a variety of Asian sausages.

    Finally, visitors to Star Fish might notice a familiar face in the kitchen. Veteran Houston chef Joseph Stayshich (Benjy’s, Karbach Brewery) has made the jump from Eloise Nichols to Cherry Pie Hospitality's Heights-adjacent seafood restaurant.

    Openings and Closings
    Speaking of Montrose patio bars, Doc’s Motorworks Bar & Grill has closed after three years in business. Rumors that Ruggles Black chef Bruce Molzan would take over the space and rebrand it as Ruggles Ice have not come to fruition, according to a report in the Houston Business Journal. While the space’s future is uncertain, don’t expect a prime location in Montrose (with respectable parking) to stay empty for long.

    Pondicheri has brought its contemporary Indian cuisine to the Asia Society Texas Center. Pondi Cafe is open for breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Sunday with a menu that mixes favorite dishes from its larger sibling with a few one-offs, like a chickpea pie and a Bournvita ice cream sandwich.

    Bacon Bros. Public House, the South Carolina-based bar and restaurant, has closed. Known for its housemade charcuterie and barbecue, the restaurant lasted less than a year in Sugar Land Town Square.

    River Oaks has a new destination for doro wat and kitfo. Acclaimed Ethiopian restaurant Blue Nile has opened a second location at 3030 Audley St. in the space previously occupied by Luigi’s Cucina Italiana.

    Kura Revolving Sushi Bar, the California-based restaurant that opened its first Houston-area location last year, has added an additional outpost in Sugar Land at 13513 University Blvd. While no one will confuse its cuisine with the quality found at an intimate omakase feast, being able to receive two pieces of nigiri for only $2.25 has its own rewards.

    Other news and notes
    The day is drawing near when Kenny & Ziggy’s will sell its 2 millionth matzo ball. The lucky schlemiel who orders the winning ball will receive prizes, a $100 gift card, and a t-shirt that reads “My Matzo Balls are Bigger than Yours!” At the present rate of sales, the restaurant expects a winner to be crowned sometime during the week of February 5.

    None of the employees of Aqui, the Houston restaurant opened by Austin chef Paul Qui, have commented publicly about what it's like to work somewhere where the owner has been accused of domestic assault, until now. Pastry chef Jillian Bartolome addresses a variety of topics, including negative publicity and questions she's received from friends about her decision, in this conversation with San Francisco chef Richie Nakano on ChefsFeed.

    Cane Rosso may be known for pizza, but chefs Jonathan Jones and Matt Wommack want it to be known for burgers, too. On Wednesday nights, both the Heights and Montrose locations are offering the Ghostface Squealer Burger (beef and ghost pepper bacon patty with habanero slaw, pickles, spicy mayo, and double American cheese, $12) and the Cane Rosso Burger ($10) served with potato puffs.

    Veteran Houston bartender Chris Morris (Hunky Dory, Radio Milano) will present the regalo cocktail he’s created for the Bacardi Legacy cocktail competition at four venues this week. Find the drink (a mixture of rum, champagne, mango nectar, sugar, and basil leaves) on Wednesday, January 31 at Sloan/Hall from 5 -7 pm; on Thursday, February 1 at South Bank Seafood Bar from 4 - 8 pm; on Friday, February 2 at Ladybird’s from 6 - 10 pm; and Saturday, February 3 at Johnny’s Gold Brick from 8 pm until close.

    Burgers are on the menu at Cane Rosso every Wednesday night.

    Cane Rosso burger night
    Courtesy photo
    Burgers are on the menu at Cane Rosso every Wednesday night.
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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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