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    What's Eric Eating Episode 178

    Meet the maestro behind Spring Branch's hottest new restaurant, plus the hottest food news

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 21, 2021 | 2:01 pm
    Truffle Masters 2019 Brandon Silva Wooster's Garden Kirby Group
    Chef Brandon Silva is this week's guest.
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Brandon Silva joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Degust, his newly opened tasting menu restaurant in Spring Branch. Silva brings a wealth of experience to the project, having worked locally at restaurants such as Uchi, Pesce, and Brasserie 19 as well as staged at restaurants in Chicago and Copenhagen.

    Silva draws on his Spanish and Mexican heritage to create Degust's eight-course tasting menu. For example, some courses utilize corn that's ground in-house and put through a traditional nixtamalization process to create masa that becomes tortillas, tostadas, and quesadillas. Many dishes use vegetables and herbs grown either on-site or at the restaurant's urban farm in The Heights.

    Sandler asks Silva why he's chosen to serve a tasting menu rather than offer diners a la carte options.

    "I think that anyone who wants to tell a story about their cooking and have a really cool and fun, relaxed dinner party, the tasting menu format works well," Silva says. "You get to really see the personable side of the chef and what he's trying to portray with the food. When someone's really happy cooking food, no matter how many courses it is, you can feel the energy and the excitement . . . That's what I think the tasting menu at Degust portrays."

    Prior to the interview, blogger Felice Sloan joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: the two new restaurants from Michelin-starred chefs coming to the Museum of Fine Arts; the prospects for Thirteen, James Harden's new restaurant in Midtown; and a couple of recent closings, including 369 Oriental Bistro, one of Sandler's favorite places for Chinese-American food.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, the duo share first impressions of chef Justin Turner's two new restaurants in Generation Park, Bocca Italian Kitchen and Lupo Pizzeria. Listen to the episode to hear their take on whether the founder of Bernie's Burger Bus knows Italian food.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 11 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen exterior
    Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen/Facebook
    Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen is the only Houston restaurant on either list.

    The New York Times included four Texas restaurants among its favorite dishes of 2025. Divided into two lists — The 23 Best Restaurant Dishes We Ate Across the U.S. in 2025 and The 14 Best Restaurant Desserts We Ate Across the U.S. in 2025 — the dishes are:

    • Bad Honey Bunny at Mercado Sin Nombre (Austin)
    • Ketan Hitam at Yeni’s Fusion (Austin)
    • Konafa Naama at Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen (Houston)
    • Picadillo Macaroni and Cheese at 2M Smokehouse (San Antonio)

    Times food writer Priya Krishna, who authors the entries for all four Texas dishes, traveled to far west Houston to visit Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen. “The konafa, a signature here, arrives with a molten layer of cheese under a sticky-sweet layer of golden, nutty semolina. The craft is evident, the konafa gone in a few bites,” she writes.

    Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen Konafa Naama Don't skip dessert at Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen.KSayad Mediterranean Kitchen/Facebook

    In Austin, Krishna praises the rice pudding at Yeni’s Fusion. “This barely sweet version, lush with coconut milk, aromatic with pandan and as soothing as warm porridge, is the gentlest way to end a meal,” she states.

    Already hailed as one of America’s best breakfast spots by Bon Appetit, Krishna singles out a honeybun at Mercado Sin Nombre. “The coiled honey bun at this semi-clandestine cafe looks almost cartoonishly perfect, and the heady scent of cardamom and honey hits you before you even take a bite. Somehow, it tastes every bit as plush and elegant as it appears,” she writes.

    The picadillo mac and cheese at 2M Smokehouse showcases how the San Antonio restaurant incorporates Mexican flavors into traditional Texas barbecue. “Imagine Hamburger Helper, but spicier, punchier and even more luxuriously creamy. It’s not easy to one-up the singular, thickly spiced brisket here, but the picadillo mac and cheese — which runs as an occasional special — holds its own and then some,” Krishna writes.

    The New York Times regularly shines its spotlight on Texas restaurants, In September, it named four establishments — ChòpnBlọk (Houston), Isidore (San Antonio), Lao’d Bar (Austin), and P Thai’s Khao Man Gai & Noodles (Austin) — to its list of America’s 50 Best Restaurants.

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