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    8 things to know

    8 things to know in Houston food right now: Montrose Chinese favorite bids farewell

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 15, 2021 | 12:47 pm

    Editor’s note: Houston’s restaurant scene moves pretty fast. In order to prevent CultureMap readers from missing anything, let’s stop to look around at all the latest news to know.

    Openings, closings, and coming attractions

    Korean fried chicken restaurant has Bonchon has opened its first location inside the loop in Midtown at 2100 Travis St. In addition to its signature fried chicken — available in spicy, soy garlic, or half and half — the restaurant serves a range of Korean specialities including bibimbap, japchae, and bulgogi alongside a full range of beer, wine, and cocktails.

    On January 21, the restaurant will celebrate its grand opening with a special offer of a free dozen boneless wings with purchase of any combo meal. The restaurant opens daily at 11 am.

    Time is running out to get one last order of crispy, spicy asparagus at 369 Oriental Bistro. Like Half Price Books, the Chinese-American Montrose staple will close after this weekend to make way for Skanska USA’s massive new mixed-use development at the corner of Westheimer and Montrose.

    An employee tells CultureMap that the restaurant is looking for a new location but hasn’t found the right fit yet. Fingers crossed that it happens soon. Life without those fried dumplings and General Tso’s chicken will be a little poorer. CultureMap ranked 369 as the city’s 99th best restaurant on its 2019 list of Houston’s top 100 restaurants.

    JCI Grill (f/k/a James Coney Island) has permanently closed its Town & Country restaurant (701 Town & Country Blvd.). In response to a post about the closure on the Memorial Area Eats Facebook group, JCI director of marketing Michelle Holmes writes that the company decided to move on from the location due to its lack of a drive-thru, which has proven to be essential during the pandemic. She adds that the company is actively searching for a new outpost to serve Memorial-area diners.

    Eaker Barbecue will close after service on Friday, January 22. In an email sent to the food truck’s supporters, pitmaster-owner Lance Eaker writes that sales have declined dramatically during the coronavirus pandemic. Fans will have a few more days to get Eaker’s Central Texas-style barbecue brisket and gochujang pork ribs at the Westbury Baptist Church (10425 Hillcroft St.)

    “I can't begin to tell you how much our friends, family, and our customers have meant to us as we have made this crazy journey,” Eaker writes. “That's what kills me, after all of your support and patronage we feel like we are abandoning you guys. Please know that this was not an easy decision to come too and that it weighed heavily on our minds for months now.”

    Torchy’s Tacos will next two new Houston-area locations will open in Stafford (11327 Current Ln.) this spring and Richmond’s Aliana development (4818 Waterview Town Center Dr.) this summer. The Austin-based, gringo taco slinger recently received a $400 million private equity investment that will allow it to expand to 10 more states over the next four years. Currently, Torchy’s operates more than 80 locations in seven states.

    Other news and notes

    Austin food festival Hot Luck has selected Houston’s Southern Smoke Foundation as its charity beneficiary. Founded by Franklin Barbecue pitmaster-owner Aaron Franklin, Hot Luck is a multi-day food and music happening; no announcement has been made about whether the festival will return in 2021 or wait until 2022. As part of the partnership, two of the festival’s sponsors — Yeti Coolers and Tito’s Handmade Vodka — have made donations to the foundation’s emergency relief fund that provides cash assistance to restaurant industry workers.

    “I’m in awe,” Southern Smoke co-founnder Chris Shepherd said in a statement. “Aaron has supported Southern Smoke since day one, and I’m so honored that he and the Hot Luck team chose Southern Smoke as their beneficiary. Hot Luck is an incredible event—one I look forward to every year—and now, the Hot Luck team is family.”

    Pier 6 Seafood & Oyster House has named Chris Loftis as its chef de cuisine. Executive chef Joe Cervantez and Loftis are childhood friends who’ve worked together many times over the years, including at Killen’s Steakhouse. Loftis will assist Cervantez with overseeing the kitchen and developing new dishes at the San Leon restaurant.

    “Chris is very passionate. He takes a lot of pride in what he does, and I know I can count on him to deliver and execute well,” Cervantez said in a release. “But it’s also nice to have a friend there. I know the future is going to be really bright. It’s going to be a great partnership. This is just the beginning of what’s to come.”

    FM Kitchen & Bar has updated its offerings for 2021. Chef Bety Barrera’s new additions include grilled salmon tacos, flank steak with salsa verde, and a birria torta. In addition, the comfort food restaurant has added some zero proof cocktails that will remain on the menu even after dry January ends.

    FM Kitchen has introduced a birria torta.

    FM Kitchen birria torta
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    FM Kitchen has introduced a birria torta.
    closingsnews-you-can-eatopenings
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars

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