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    Food for Thought

    Beware of chefs in cowboy boots: They foil any foodie diet

    Marene Gustin
    Jan 5, 2011 | 12:02 am
    • I can always fit into my Old Gringo boots no matter what. But a diet it is.
    • OK, I'm not giving up the queso.
    • Or probably, Branch Water Tavern's hamburger.
      Photo by Kimberly Park
    • Bloody Marys are diet drinks though, right?
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    Stick a fork in the holidays. They’re done. And now begins the battle to shed the extra pounds we all put on while partying our heads off. And eating out with our 81-year-old fathers who only like burgers and Tex-Mex.

    With all regards to CultureMap health columnist Marci Gilbert, I am not banning the diet. I am going on one.

    The question is, what kind of diet?

    I’ve never really tried to diet before. Well, that’s not true.

    When I was a teenager I went to visit my older sister once and she had this wacky diet we tried. It had to do with hard-boiled eggs, a steak and a bottle of white wine. You ate one hard-boiled egg for breakfast, two for lunch with a glass of wine and then a small steak and the rest of the wine for dinner. I don’t know where on earth she got this idea and I don’t remember if we lost any weight but I do remember we had a heck of a time drinking a bottle of wine a day.

    Then there was the Atkins Diet craze of the '70s. The no-carb-is-a-good-carb-diet. Years ago, the fajita plate at the original Berryhill’s was actually called the Adkins Plate. Chicken, cheese, grilled peppers. That was all good. But, uh, Berryhill is a Baja-Mex joint. As in tortillas and endless baskets of warm chips. And while I’m not a licensed nutritionist, I do believe that tortillas and the chips made by frying them count as carbs.

    And while I can dial it back some on my carb intake, you’re not getting my chili con queso slathered tortilla chips until you pry them from my cold, dead hand.

    So, OK. I decided to start the New Year with a light lunch at Haven, due mostly to a Facebook photo of a $5 bloody Mary they posted. It was in a jelly jar with a small salad floating in it. Now that sounds healthy, right?

    Maybe I’d just order some deviled yard eggs to go with it.

    But, as I found out, you couldn’t order a la carte on New Year’s Day. They had a special three-course brunch thing going on that was more food than a sumo wrestler could eat in a week.

    And, of course, it all started with chef Randy Evans’ warm pull-apart rolls (you can’t eat just one) so the no-carb thing went right out the window. Then the appetizer came. Four fried chicken livers atop tiny pillows of dough all covered in gravy. I ate one. Just one, I swear. I did, however, take the rest home.

    Then came the main course. Sautéed Gulf fish with lump crab meat on a bed of black-eyed peas. Not bad diet wise, but still too much food. And then there was a dessert, which I still don’t know what it was since I had it boxed to go and it’s still sitting there in the box in the fridge. See, sweets aren’t my problem. Carbs are.

    Oh, and before leaving, we all stood around and admired each other’s cowboy boots. Dad got me some awesome Old Gringo knee-highs, Katherine had on some rockin’ vintage Dan Posts and chef had on his square-toed Luccheses. Yeah, he cooks in cowboy boots, no sissy clogs for him.

    And yes, I digress here but let’s face it, when you’re battling those extra pounds footwear is where it’s at ‘cause feet don’t get fat like waistlines do.

    OK. Day one not so good. But I swear I’m going to stick to this. I’ve already upped my workout routine from two miles to almost three of treadmill power walking. And by almost three miles I mean two point one miles.

    And I’ve stocked up on Greek yogurt, soy milk, fresh fruits and organic oatmeal. I’ve got the grilled chicken and fish thing down; I can cook those in my sleep. I’ll just have to lay off making pasta and put my dad on notice that our regular lunches of burgers and Tex-Mex are to be replaced with meals of mesquite grilled shrimp, which is the only seafood he’ll eat. Unless I can get him into sushi, which is highly doubtful. Yeah, that’s not happening.

    And I don’t see cutting back on restaurant tastings, since I write about food for work. I’m just going to eat less. I swear I am.

    In fact, I am going to go on a fast to kick off my new diet. A one-day, clear liquid only fast. Vodka’s a clear liquid, right?

    Oh, wait, that might be part of the problem, too.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars
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