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    Cliff Notes

    Bill Cunningham documentary is a must-see for the fashion faithful

    Clifford Pugh
    Apr 14, 2011 | 10:19 pm
    • Bill Cunningham shooting on the street in New York City from the feature-lengthdocumentary, "Bill Cunningham New York."
    • Bill Cunningham shooting Anna Wintour as she enters a fashion show duringFashion Week in New York City, from the feature-length documentary, "BillCunningham New York."
    • Bill Cunningham shooting women attending a fashion show in Chelsea duringFashion Week in New York.
    • Bill Cunningham editing film on a monitor at his desk at The New York Times

    There's some debate whether Mark Twain, George Bernard Shaw or somebody else said, "It's a pity that youth is wasted on the young." But it wouldn't surprise me if it were someone in the fashion business who coined the phrase.

    Fashion week in New York, Milan or Paris is often an exercise in wasted youth. Teenage models play dress-up on the runway, trying to look grown-up in clothes meant for real women. Snarly fashion assistants just out of college who have a sense of self-importance that far outweighs their job title take great delight in giving attitude to anyone they deem less notable. Botoxed fashion editors in stilettos and miniskirts on the front row strain to look young and hip.

    So it's a delight to see an elderly-but-still-going-strong American fashion original finally get his due.

    At 82, Bill Cunningham continues to be a front row fixture in all the fashion capitals as well as on the streets of New York. Dressed in a blue smock like the kind Paris sanitation workers wear and with his camera always on hand, he chronicles fashion trends for The New York Times. His Sunday photo spreads on the street scene and society parties have appeared in the paper of record since the 1970s and provide an incomparable history of fashion.

    Cunningham's life and dedication to fashion is chronicled in a fascinating new documentary, Bill Cunningham New York, at the Museum of Fine Arts Friday night (at 7 and 8:45 p.m.). I saw it with a nearly packed house last weekend at the museum and everyone in the audience was charmed by Cunningham's spirit, dedication to his craft and stellar work that transcends who-wore-what to capture important moments in time.

    Even an influential fashion editor like Vogue's Anna WIntour worries when Cunningham doesn't take her photo; when his camera stays down, it's his tacit disapproval that what she's wearing isn't interesting enough to catch his eye. "I've said it many times, we all get dressed for Bill," she says in the movie.

    In a world of rampant materialism, Cunningham is downright frugal. He doesn't own a car or take taxis; instead he bicycles to events all over Manhattan in one night — on his 29th bicycle. The other 28 have been stolen over the years.

    He doesn't take freebies of any kind: in fact, he won't even eat or drink anything at a society event. "I eat with my eyes," he tells an organizer who begs him to dine at a high-society gala.

    Before being forced to move into a new apartment last year, he lived in a hovel above Carnegie Hall with nothing but a small bed and dozens of filing cabinets to store his negatives because he doesn't believe in digital photographs. He shared a bathroom in the hallway with other tenants and never used his kitchen.

    "Who the hell wants a kitchen and bathroom?" he says while looking for a new apartment. "It's more rooms to clean."

    He loves to shoot on the street in all kinds of weather, getting some of his best, most candid photos when it snows and pedestrians let their fashion guard down. "I let the streets speak to me," he says. "You have to stay on the street and let it tell you. There are no short cuts, believe me."

    In inclement weather, he wears a cheap plastic poncho. When it rips, instead of buying a new poncho, he repairs the old one with duct tape. "It's going to tear anyway," he explains.

    He might come across as an oddball, but he's anything but that. His pure, unadulturated love for fashion motivates him — and nothing else.

    "It's the armour to survive the reality of everyday life," he explains at one point in the movie. "You can't do away with it. It would be like doing away with civilization."

    The high point in the movie for me comes when he is presented the Chevalier of the Order of Arts and Letters from the French minister of culture in Paris during the fall of 2008. I was fortunate to be there to see Cunningham and longtime fashion writer Marylou Luther receive the honor from French officials at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. I try to sit next to Luther whenever possible at shows because she has an encyclopedic knowledge of fashion history, having viewed Yves Saint Laurent's first collection for Christian Dior in 1958 among other career highlights.

    As the movie shows, the night was especially moving as Cunningham, using a combination of French and English, explained the importance of fashion.

    I'm not interested in the celebrities with their free dresses. I look at the clothes— the cut, the lines, the color, that's everything. It's the clothes, not the celebrity and not the spectacle. It's as true today as it ever was: He who seeks beauty will find it."

    At the end of his short speech, Cunningham was so moved with emotion that he burst into tears. It was an electric moment.

    Then he was back to doing what he does best. He had his camera with him, and throughout the evening he photographed the surroundings.

    "So you're working at your own party?" one woman asked him.

    "It's not work," he said, "it's pleasure."

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    LEATHER & LUXE

    Heritage leather brand opens appointment-only boutique in River Oaks

    Gabi De la Rosa
    Aug 20, 2026 | 10:30 am
    Ghurka
    Photo courtesy of Ghurka
    Ghurka’s new River Oaks boutique brings its signature leather goods and custom clothing to Houston.

    The heritage leather brand Ghurka recently opened a River Oaks boutique that offers custom clothing for men and women, a rare find in Houston’s luxury market.

    For more than 50 years, Ghurka has built a reputation for beautifully crafted leather goods. Now, Houstonians have a new way to experience its collections.

    Its new River Oaks boutique, one of only two brick-and-mortar outposts in the country, brings the label’s signature leather collection together with custom clothing and private styling, creating a personal shopping experience.

    At the appointment-only store, clients can shop for leather bags and accessories while also working one-on-one with an advisor to create custom tailoring, shirting, knitwear, and other pieces curated to their specific needs and lifestyle. Houstonians will also be among the first to see Ghurka's expanded clothing offering with the debut of the Fall/Winter 2026 custom collection.

    “For us, the decision to open in Houston really came down to people and relationships,” Glenn Pollack, chairman and CEO of Ghurka, tells CultureMap. “Ghurka has a meaningful history here and longstanding relationships with people who know the brand and what it stands for. As we considered returning to physical retail, we wanted to start in markets where we had the right talent, the right relationships, and a strong foundation to build on. Houston gave us all three.”

    Ghurka Ghurka's appointment-only River Oaks boutique is located at 3701 W. Alabama, Suite 185. Appointments are available online. Photo courtesy of Ghurka

    Founded in Connecticut in 1975, Ghurka's main focus is on leather goods designed to improve with time and wear. Its product range run the gamut from bags and backpacks to wallets, belts, and accessories. The brand is now applying that successful philosophy to clothing, with a focus on premium materials, durable construction, and pieces designed around the individual rather than trends.

    Clients can work with a Gurkha advisor to decide what they need from their wardrobes before choosing fabrics, silhouettes, proportions, and bespoke details. Each piece is fully custom and finished by hand and according to Pollack, the goal of the appointment-only Houston boutique is to provide shoppers with a complete experience and a personalized level of attention.

    “For us, custom clothing is ultimately about the individual rather than a particular gender,” Pollack said. “The same principles that have guided Ghurka for more than fifty years translate naturally into clothing. Offering custom for both men and women allows us to create a much more complete and personal relationship with our clients.”

    ----

    Ghurka Houston, 3701 W. Alabama St., Suite 185. Appointments are available through ghurka.com.


    Ghurka

    Photo courtesy of Ghurka

    Ghurka’s new River Oaks boutique brings its signature leather goods and custom clothing to Houston.

    custom clothes in houstonriver oaks shoppingluxury brand houstonshoppingghurka houston
    news/fashion

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