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    Fashion QA

    Kay Unger thrives with colorful designs for the real woman

    Jennifer Roosth
    Mar 17, 2011 | 12:38 pm
    • A selection from the Kay Unger spring collection.
      Photo by © Michelle Watson/CatchlightGroup.com
    • Tootsies owner Mickey Rosemarin, from left, Kay Unger and Tootsies buyer JohnMaguire
      Photo by Morris Malakoff
    • Unger helps a customer. Her attentiveness to customer's needs are a major reasonbehind her success.

    When I first met Kay Unger, I didn’t know she was a designer at all. “Aunt Kay” had invited her niece, Julie, and Julie’s college friends to New York to stay with her and ‘go out’ in “the city."

    I immediately recognized that Aunt Kay was fabulous. Her amazing Upper East Side apartment was impeccably decorated, her independence, humor and insight were apparent by looking at the comical magnets on her fridge, and well, she had great snacks. Her pantry looked like Citerella (a smaller NYC version of Whole Foods/Central Market type gourmet market).

    “So what does Aunt Kay do?” I inquired, assuming the answer would be an explanation of what her husband does, or that she had divorced well.

    “Kay’s a fashion designer,” was the response in a tone reminiscent of Elle Woods in Legally Blonde, ‘What, like its hard?’

    Ten years later, upon entering the “real world” post-college, and having imagined by now I would be a superwoman like “Aunt Kay," I realize...yes, it’s very hard.

    But "Aunt Kay" makes it look easy.

    The 65-year-old designer has been successful because she listens to her customer and taps into what "real women" want and need for their wardrobes. She offers a classic design aesthetic with beautiful prints, colors and feminine detailing at an affordable price ($200-$500).

    Designing on her own since 1972, her line began with functional yet feminine suits and dresses. In 2007, she added Phoebe Couture, a collection of edgy day and evening dresses with a more youthful body type in mind (and a lower price, $100-$300). Last year, she created a plus line with larger sizes.

    When I discovered that the designer would be in Houston for a St Luke’s Hospital fundraising luncheon and appearance at Tootsies, I decided to go to the source herself and ask for answers.

    CultureMap: How did even know what you wanted to do with your life? You were a little ahead of your time as a woman entrepreneur.

    Kay Unger: The thing that makes someone an entrepreneur is that you see an opportunity and you just grasp it. Without thinking, without stopping, without worrying that you might not be educated or qualified enough….you just go for it. That’s how I got into design.

    As young as 8 years old, I would cut up bedspreads and make my own designs. When I graduated from Parsons School of Design in NYC, I jumped into the design industry working as an assistant for couture designer Goeffrey Beene (Issey Miyake was his other assistant).

    My father, (well-known Chicago investment banker) Julius Epstein, had just passed away and left me $25,000. I spent all of it on fabric from the Liberty of London fabric shop and had it shipped to my living room in NYC. I kept my day job, and started designing at night. Within a year, I was designing full time. It was hard at first because I had no business education; I was just following my gut. I would wrap up the clothes in garment bags, and take them on my bicycle to Bloomingdales to sell.

    A year later, I brought in my two partners. At that time, there were a lot of women’s names in my industry, but not a lot of women business owners.

    CM: How would you describe your style?

    KU: We are known for our femininity and fit. I like simple designs, but I always add a touch of something feminine (ie: ruffles), and focus on strategic fit and draping with real women’s bodies in mind. Phoebe Couture, our more youthful line, is cut a little shorter, but always with a signature three-inch hem that can be easily altered.

    CM: How did you decide to move into plus sizes?

    KU: We’ve done plus sizes on and off through the years. The issue is that stores in the past didn’t quite appreciate how [the plus size customer] wants to look. However, now I am seeing a trend that retailers are starting to notice. When press and sales went nuts, all of our stores started calling and asking to sell the plus size line. We took our main collection up to a size 18 missy (0-18). Then we have another line that is plus size (16W-24W) that is cut a bit differently for a curvier woman, and consists mostly of print and solid separates—flattering and feminine. Latino and More magazines encourage us to advertise our larger sizes with plus size models in ads for their publication.

    CM: Do you ever get creatively stuck? Where do you turn for new ideas and inspirations?

    KU: I do pilates every morning at 6 a.m. for mental balance. I refer to my trainer as my expensive alarm clock. When I spend time freethinking, I feel my mind naturally solve problems.

    Now that I live in Soho, for inspiration I can just walk outside. I go to art museums, such as the New Museum downtown. I look at books and through my own vintage designs (from 1968 onward). When I get stuck on a color story, I find inspiration in Rothko. For print moods, I like to look at home design.

    CM: Your assistant Emily tells me “[you] make [her] want to be a better person”. She says “[you are] an incredible multi-taster” who models how a woman can “do it all." What do you think will be your legacy?

    KU: Celebrity as a designer has given me a wonderful platform from which to give back. I am most proud of my mentoring abilities, both to my children and over 3000 young people over the years. I’ve always believed in having interns and interns-for-hire. I’m involved in the Committee of 200 (a network of women business owners that Unger co-founded) and the Women’s Campaign Forum (a nonpartisan organization that promotes women in politics).

    I also enjoyed being involved with a UJA Federation ((United Jewish Appeal) ) mission to Israel, where we focused on educating Israeli women on how to export to the United States (I had a business in Tel Aviv for several years).

    CM: You seem a little too perfect. Do you have any vices?

    KU: Yes. Hotel mini bars.

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    EFFORTLESS EDIT

    Shop Carolyn Bessette's minimal '90s style at these 8 Houston spots

    Gabi De la Rosa
    Mar 19, 2026 | 10:30 am
    Love Story
    Photo courtesy of FX/Facebook
    Thanks to the show, "Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. And Carolyn Bessette," 90s minimalism is back and easy to find in Houston.

    Thanks to Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette, the woman who helped define ’90s minimalism is back in heavy rotation. Her classic way of dressing serves as a reminder that great style does not need logos or loud trends to make a big impact. Bessette-Kennedy's uniform of crisp white shirts, perfectly cut denim, and minimal accessories is not only nostalgic, but a stylish blueprint for getting dressed right now.

    Houstonians don't need a NYC zip code or a Calvin Klein press badge to recreate her most classic looks. From River Oaks District to Rice Village and the Heights, boutiques are leaning into that same pared-back polish — making it easy to find a quietly expensive aesthetic without overthinking it.

    Accessories

    Lele Sadoughi

    Bessette-Kennedy often topped off her casual outfits with a slim tortoise shell headband, and Lele Sadoughi, a boutique in River Oaks District, is leaning into similar timeless styles. The Tortoise Emma Acetate Headband and the Jet Faux Leather Bessette Headband are both available for preorder with similar styles available in-store.

    Lele Sadoughi Polished headbands and statement accessories with a timeless twist.Photo courtesy of Lele Sadoughi

    Krewe

    New Orleans-born Krewe eyewear in Rice Village is channeling '90s minimalistic style with slim, small-frame sunglasses that are reminiscent of Bessette-Kennedy's go-to pairs. Its Spring 2026 collection introduces the Kate and Leah styles, each offered in three colorways.

    Krewe Sleek, small-frame sunglasses that channel effortless ’90s cool.Photo courtesy of Krewe

    Fly High Little Bunny

    This Houston go-to for one of a kind pieces offers a variety of both fine jewelry and classic sterling silver styles. Jeweled hoops, dainty rings, and minimal necklaces that were everyday staples of Bessette-Kennedy, are available at their Heights boutique.

    Fly High Little Bunny Delicate jewelry and one-of-a-kind pieces for everyday minimalism.Photo courtesy of Fly High Little Bunny/Instagram

    Moreau Paris

    Often seen carrying a tote bag, the '90s fashion icon was a big fan of understated luxury. River Oaks District handbag boutique Moreau Paris offers a variety of bags in similar styles including the Mini Vincennes Reversible Totes giving a two-in-one option, as well as the Small Ana Saddle Leather Top Handle Bag for a more structured look.

    Moreau Paris Understated luxury handbags with clean lines and quiet sophistication.Photo courtesy of Moreau Paris

    Clothing

    Tootsies

    When it came to denim, Bessette-Kennedy kept things classic, favoring straight and bootcut styles. At Tootsies, the brand DL1961 taps into that same timeless feel. The Bridget Boot High Rise Instasculpt offers a flattering polished fit and comes in a variety of colorways and lengths making it easy to find a pair for everyday wear.

    DL1961 Classic denim fits and elevated staples for a polished, everyday look.Photo courtesy of DL1961

    Alchemia

    One of Bessette-Kennedy's most celebrated looks was a basic white button down shirt. She often wore Calvin Klein, as she was a publicist for the brand, but the same classic style can be found at Alchemia. The Essentials Icon Shirt in white is tailored at the waist, chest, and back to give a flattering fit without the dreaded blouse gape.

    Alchemia Tailored essentials, including the perfect crisp white button-down.Photo courtesy of Alchemia

    Frock Shop

    A versatile black midi skirt not only goes with everything, it can be worn during any season. Frock Shop carries the ALC Remy Drawstring Midi Skirt that is easy to style and comfortable to keep on a regular rotation.

    Frock Shop Easy, versatile pieces like midi skirts that work season after season.Photo courtesy of Frock Shop

    Beauty

    Kiehl's

    Used by both Carolyn and John, the Kiehl's Creme with Silk Groom delivers soft hold, subtle shine, and natural movement. Ideal for the sleek low buns Kennedy-Bessette favored as well as polished styles. Kiehl's Highland Village location also carries a scent very close to Kennedy Bessette's fragrance of choice. The Kiehl's Original Musk Eau de Toilette combines classic musk with with soft floral and woody notes.

    Kiehl's Original Musk Eau de Toilette Low-key grooming and fragrance for a naturally polished finish.Photo courtesy of Kiehl's

    kiehl'sfrock shopalchemiatootsiesmoreau parisfly high little bunnykrewelele sadoughicarolyn bessette-kennedyshopping
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