Off the Cuff

Discovering new talent at New York fashion week: Mathieu Mirano & Karen Walker

Mathie Mirano in front of his Fall 2012 Collection in the Box at Lincoln Center
Photo by Steve Hellerstein
Sequined-embellished cropped jacket reminiscent of Balmain at Mathieu Mirano.
Photo by Steve Hellerstein
Dragon-inspired jewelry at Mathieu Mirano
Photo by Andrew Werner
At Karen Walker Fall 2012, paisley prints and vibrant orange
Karen Walker.com
Karen Walker's fuzzy yellow sweater gives a nod to the 1960s.
Karen Walker.com
Boxy coats and paisley booties at Karen Walker
Karen Walker.com
Brocade dress at Karen Walker
Karen Walker.com
Another personal favorite of mine, a high-neck, long-sleeved black velvet gown
Photo by Andrew Werner
A personal favorite, a red and gold satin v-neck gown
Photo by Steve Hellerstein
Dragon-like scaled embroidery at Mathieu Mirano
Photo by Steve Hellerstein

Editor's Note: With 350 designers at fashion week, there's no way Clifford Pugh could see all the shows. CultureMap contributor Lindley Arnoldy sought out some new fashion talent. Here's her report.

NEW YORK — Viewing the runway shows of major fashion houses at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is a thrilling experience. There is something truly glamorous and titillating about being a stone’s throw away from the key editors and photographers who have long standing presence in the industry.

However, there is also something to be said about seeing an emerging designer present for the very first time, where the talent is palpable but the crowd is much thinner.

There is something to be said about seeing an emerging designer present for the very first time, where the talent is palpable but the crowd is much thinner.

One of my favorite experiences from fashion week was viewing the presentation of newcomer Mathieu Mirano in the Box at Lincoln Center. Unlike a typical runway show, Mirano’s presentation felt exotic and otherworldly, paying homage to his background in piano with intense classical music setting the tone.

His 2012 fall collection was inspired by a dream he had involving women and dragons, which was visible in his use of fiery reds, golds and blacks with the incorporation of exposed zippers, claw studs, dragon heads and talons.

The result was a dark, somewhat mystical collection that reminded me of the sort of ostentatious, regal feel of something put forth by Balmain or Versace. My favorites were actually two gowns — a black turtleneck velvet gown that had a sort of renaissance appeal to it and a red and gold floor length satin with a V-neck and cap sleeve.

At only 20 years old, Mirano is making a name for himself for his sense of imagination and couture skills focusing on high levels of construction. He dropped out of Parson’s School of Design and in the last year morphed from a student trying to sneak into the tents at Lincoln Center to a talented, emerging designer presenting from the inside. I was very impressed with his work and predict he will be one to watch.

Sea monsters on the runway

Another favorite at fashion week was newcomer – though not first timer – designer Karen Walker. She has really made a name for herself in the industry with her sunglass line, a gift to all of the attendees in the first two rows at her runway show. She used the Jules Verne novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea as the inspiration for her “Sea Monsters” presentation, which translated into lots of navy, yellow and orange separates with funky paisley prints, brocades and boxy coats.

The wild colors and prints were refreshing next to all of the black seen at many of the other shows.

I love Walker’s ability to offset a sweet peplum or pussybow blouse with a boyish, drop crotch trouser. There were also '60s mod undertones, seen similarly in her signature round sunnies, with her use of fuzzy sweaters and A-Line silhouettes. I particularly loved how she brought the paisley prints into her pointy toe booties with vibrant colors and sweet ruffles. The wild colors and prints were refreshing next to all of the black seen at many of the other shows.

The show attracted some notables. I spotted well known blogger Man Repeller tweeting from the front row and Elle style director Kate Lanpher seated directly in front of me. Walker’s knack for eclectic mix and her ability to execute multiple influences really made her stand out to me as a whimsical, talented designer who we will continue to see more of.

Lindley Arnoldy writes the fashion and style blog The Flip Side.

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HOTTEST HEADLINES OF 2025

Celeb's Texas-sized ring dazzles in our top 10 fashion stories of 2025

Photo courtesy of Kendra Scott

Kendra Scott's million dollar engagement ring crafted by a Houston jeweler tops Houston's most-read fashion articles of 2025.

Editor’s note: Houston’s shopping and style scene delivered plenty to talk about this year, with headline-making jewels, must-have accessories, major retail moves, and Texas-sized collaborations. Readers couldn’t get enough of a million-dollar pink diamond crafted by a Houston jeweler for Zac Brown and Kendra Scott, the Labubu frenzy, and the arrival of luxury brands in River Oaks District. New flagships from beloved Texas brands, summer shopping guides, and the return of the Nutcracker Market, along with news of a Macy’s local closure also topped the year's must-read articles. Here's a look back at the stories that captured the Bayou City's love of luxury, hometown pride, and constantly changing retail landscape.

1. Houston jeweler supplies star Zac Brown with a Texas-sized diamond ring. Country superstar Zac Brown popped the question to billionaire jewelry mogul Kendra Scott with a one-of-a-kind creation from Houston jeweler Valobra Master Jewelers. The jaw-dropping 3.06 carat fancy pink diamond (GIA certified, VVS2 clarity) was set in platinum gold and surrounded by 28 baguette-cut white diamonds totaling 3.17 carats. The jeweler wouldn't comment on the price, but it would surely retail for over $1 million.

2. Loveable Labubu: Where to find the must-have fashion accessory in Houston. Love them or hate them, these tiny monsters broke the internet with the April release of Big Into Energy Labubu. Lucky Houstonians who were able to buy one online flocked to area stores in Sugar Land and The Woodlands for their pick-up-only purchases.

3. 2 luxury jewelers unveil flagship boutiques in River Oaks District. With VIP salons, ornate decor, and luxury jewelry, two French jewelry houses made an entrance in River Oaks District this summer. Joining the neighborhood's luxury lineup, shoppers can now buy their baubles from Cartier and Van Cleef.

4. Colorful Texas handbag maker opens new flagship store in Katy. Popular handbag brand Consuela opened its first Houston-area store at La Centerra in Cinco Ranch, Katy. Shoppers can now get their hands on the bold, colorful printed bags and accessories without a long drive or an online checkout.

5. Macy's to shutter dozens of stores nationwide, including 1 in Houston. As part of a strategy to make Macy's profitable again, the store shuttered six Texas stores, including a longtime location at Almeda Mall. Five DFW stores also went dark, and by early 2026, the retailer will have closed 150 "unproductive" locations nationwide.

6. Where to shop right now: 12 Houston shops with fresh summer finds. Amid back-to-school shopping and the August 8 sales tax holiday, Houstonians were especially interested in where to find the best deals at local retailers, including Chloe Dao, Mejuri, Reformation, Abejas Boutique, and more.

7. Houston bootmaker offers $5,000 cowboy boot and gator hunt adventure. For $5,000, Houstonians can now source an alligator hide near Anahuac that will be transformed into a pair of bespoke cowboy boots by Republic Boot Company.

8. What to know about the return of Houston's Nutcracker Market for 2025. The Houston Ballet Nutcracker Market is one of the most highly anticipated shopping events of the year. This year's market welcomed 40 new vendors and over 100,000 shoppers, with ticket sales exceeding $24 million. Over $6 million went directly to support Houston Ballet, its academy, and scholarship programs.

9. Texas brand Lucchese launches UT Longhorns collection with boots and more. Storied Texas bootmaker Lucchese released a collaboration with the University of Texas featuring two men's styles and three women's styles. The lineup pairs white and cream colored leather with burnt orange accents as a nod to Longhorn pride.

10. Whataburger partners with Texas activewear brand for new capsule collection. Whataburger tapped Austin-based activewear brand Burlebo for a capsule collection just in time for Father's Day. The line included caps, infant onesies, and shirts available in three different patterns.

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