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Off the Cuff

Discovering new talent at New York fashion week: Mathieu Mirano & Karen Walker

Lindley Arnoldy
Feb 28, 2012 | 2:08 pm
  • Mathie Mirano in front of his Fall 2012 Collection in the Box at Lincoln Center
    Photo by Steve Hellerstein
  • Sequined-embellished cropped jacket reminiscent of Balmain at Mathieu Mirano.
    Photo by Steve Hellerstein
  • Dragon-inspired jewelry at Mathieu Mirano
    Photo by Andrew Werner
  • At Karen Walker Fall 2012, paisley prints and vibrant orange
    Karen Walker.com
  • Karen Walker's fuzzy yellow sweater gives a nod to the 1960s.
    Karen Walker.com
  • Boxy coats and paisley booties at Karen Walker
    Karen Walker.com
  • Brocade dress at Karen Walker
    Karen Walker.com
  • Another personal favorite of mine, a high-neck, long-sleeved black velvet gown
    Photo by Andrew Werner
  • A personal favorite, a red and gold satin v-neck gown
    Photo by Steve Hellerstein
  • Dragon-like scaled embroidery at Mathieu Mirano
    Photo by Steve Hellerstein

Editor's Note: With 350 designers at fashion week, there's no way Clifford Pugh could see all the shows. CultureMap contributor Lindley Arnoldy sought out some new fashion talent. Here's her report.

NEW YORK — Viewing the runway shows of major fashion houses at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is a thrilling experience. There is something truly glamorous and titillating about being a stone’s throw away from the key editors and photographers who have long standing presence in the industry.

However, there is also something to be said about seeing an emerging designer present for the very first time, where the talent is palpable but the crowd is much thinner.

There is something to be said about seeing an emerging designer present for the very first time, where the talent is palpable but the crowd is much thinner.

One of my favorite experiences from fashion week was viewing the presentation of newcomer Mathieu Mirano in the Box at Lincoln Center. Unlike a typical runway show, Mirano’s presentation felt exotic and otherworldly, paying homage to his background in piano with intense classical music setting the tone.

His 2012 fall collection was inspired by a dream he had involving women and dragons, which was visible in his use of fiery reds, golds and blacks with the incorporation of exposed zippers, claw studs, dragon heads and talons.

The result was a dark, somewhat mystical collection that reminded me of the sort of ostentatious, regal feel of something put forth by Balmain or Versace. My favorites were actually two gowns — a black turtleneck velvet gown that had a sort of renaissance appeal to it and a red and gold floor length satin with a V-neck and cap sleeve.

At only 20 years old, Mirano is making a name for himself for his sense of imagination and couture skills focusing on high levels of construction. He dropped out of Parson’s School of Design and in the last year morphed from a student trying to sneak into the tents at Lincoln Center to a talented, emerging designer presenting from the inside. I was very impressed with his work and predict he will be one to watch.

Sea monsters on the runway

Another favorite at fashion week was newcomer – though not first timer – designer Karen Walker. She has really made a name for herself in the industry with her sunglass line, a gift to all of the attendees in the first two rows at her runway show. She used the Jules Verne novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea as the inspiration for her “Sea Monsters” presentation, which translated into lots of navy, yellow and orange separates with funky paisley prints, brocades and boxy coats.

The wild colors and prints were refreshing next to all of the black seen at many of the other shows.

I love Walker’s ability to offset a sweet peplum or pussybow blouse with a boyish, drop crotch trouser. There were also '60s mod undertones, seen similarly in her signature round sunnies, with her use of fuzzy sweaters and A-Line silhouettes. I particularly loved how she brought the paisley prints into her pointy toe booties with vibrant colors and sweet ruffles. The wild colors and prints were refreshing next to all of the black seen at many of the other shows.

The show attracted some notables. I spotted well known blogger Man Repeller tweeting from the front row and Elle style director Kate Lanpher seated directly in front of me. Walker’s knack for eclectic mix and her ability to execute multiple influences really made her stand out to me as a whimsical, talented designer who we will continue to see more of.

Lindley Arnoldy writes the fashion and style blog The Flip Side.

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SEASONAL SIZZLE

Where to shop in Houston right now: 12 can't-miss spots for summer 2026

Gabi De la Rosa
Jul 1, 2026 | 9:00 am
South to North
Photo by Laura Sanz Photography
South to North is bringing a fresh lineup of international brands to Houston this summer.

The summer is definitely heating up, and so is the shopping scene this month. July is packed with store openings, limited-time sales, summer events, and new collections from some of the city's favorite designers and boutiques. Whether it's the perfect pair of boots, stunning jewelry, or an excuse to shop with a cocktail in hand, the retail scene in Houston is worth checking out this month.

Alchemia
Support Houston's fashion scene at the FFF Summer Pop-Up on Thursday, July 10, from 12-5 pm at Alchemia. The afternoon will highlight women-owned businesses and local designers. Shoppers can browse curated summer collections from brands including M+M Couture Designs, The Sister Rack, Tiedy Gals Co., My Knit Ever, and Sparkle & Shine by Lynn while sipping complimentary bubbles and refreshments.

Blue Leaf Houston
Along with settling in to its new location, Blue Leaf has restocked with gifts and fun baubles perfect for summer, including a large inventory of Jellycats; the latest from Mackenzie-Childs and Elsata Ceramics; and kids' clothes for both boys and girls, including Pink Chicken and EMC. The store also carries a large selection of bespoke mahjong tiles.

Houston Premium Outlets
Everyone's favorite Houston-area outlet mall is giving shoppers two more reasons to visit this summer. Popular brands Birkenstock and The North Face are now open, joining the outlet center's always-growing roster of retailers.

Hunter Bell
Houston designer brand Hunter Bell is kicking off summer savings with a sale running now through July 11. Shoppers can save up to 70 percent on select pieces from the Spring 2026 and Resort 2026 collections, making it the perfect time to stock up on the brand's polished styles before they're gone.

J. Landa Jewelry
Jumping on the summer beaded gemstone necklace trend, J. Landa's newest collection includes elevated necklaces featuring natural stones, whimsical shell and fish charms that add color and texture to summer layering.

Lucchese Bootmaker
Season 3 of America's Sweethearts: Dallas Cowboy Cheerleaders has everyone talking. For those who want to feel like a part of the team, Lucchese's Gina boot, inspired by the team's iconic performance boot, will complete any look. Available in-store or online, the boots are a great way to channel the spirit of DCC while still looking stylish in Western fashion.

Mirth
Houston-based brand Mirth is making it easy to refresh a summer wardrobe with its Holiday Weekend Sale, running through July 7. Shoppers can score an extra 20 percent off already marked-down dresses, breezy separates, and the brand's colorful signature prints. The discount is automatically applied at checkout, no code needed.

Primark
Just in time for back-to-school shopping, affordable retailer Primark will be opening its seventh store in Texas at Willowbrook Mall on July 16. The store will be offering essentials at great prices, including women's denim starting at $12, men's tees at $5, and girls' and boys' sweatshirts at $8. Sports fans can also stock up on their favorite team's merch, including Texans, Cowboys, Rockets, and Spurs items.

River Oaks District
The development's Texas Nights series will feature live music, shopping, and cocktails. Held on Saturdays, July 4, 11, and 18, the event will have performances by Rush Creek, Wes Nickson, and Trent Cade, along with the district's mix of boutiques and restaurants. It's a great excuse to sip, shop, and enjoy a warm Houston summer evening.

SĀMAÁ Diamonds Studio
Houston-based jewelry designer Sugam Khanna recently debuted her newest collection, Le Papillon, at an exclusive event at Upper Kirby cocktail lounge Santé. The collection is inspired by butterflies, and on some of the new rings, the butterfly's wings are designed to flutter with the natural movement of the hand.

South to North
The buzzy boutique that specializes in bringing international brands to the Bayou City has recently welcomed several new brands perfect for Houston summers. Available in-store, the brands include Sirapop, Lanthropy, Sara & Flora, and Salvarea.

Yellow Rose by Kendra Scott
Kendra Scott's latest collaboration for her Western-inspired line is with Austin-based country band Chaparral. The collection blends Texas ranch culture with elevated modern fashion. The collection includes jewelry, leather bolos, and statement pieces such as beaded bandana necklaces.

South to North

Photo by Laura Sanz Photography

South to North is bringing a fresh lineup of international brands to Houston this summer.

best houston shopping shop local houston houston brands houston fashion where to shop in houston
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