in defense of fast food
Ken Hoffman contemplates the complicated legacy of Super Size Me
With the recent death of filmmaker Morgan Spurlock, there’s been a resurgence of interest in his most successful, most talked-about documentary, 2004’s Super Size Me.
Super Size Me currently is streaming on Amazon Prime Video, Peacock, and Hoopla. You can watch it for free on Roku, YouTube, Tubi, Pluto, and Freevee.
The Super Size Me premise was simple: in an effort to demonstrate how damaging fast food is to a person’s health, Spurlock would eat every meal — breakfast, lunch and dinner — only at McDonald’s for 30 days. Most of the movie was filmed at Golden Arches in Houston and Spurlock’s hometown of New York City.
Along the way, he visited doctors to track the effect of this fast food diet on his health. He would only supersize his meal if the cashier offered the option. At the end of 30 days, Spurlock had gained 24.5 pounds, his cholesterol was elevated, and he claimed to have suffered heart palpitations, mood swings, depression, and sexual dysfunction.
At the time, I had a big problem with Super Size Me. I thought it was insincere and narcissistic. Upon further review this week, I think Spurlock’s film was cheesy, supersized with a great big heap of baloney. I don’t doubt Spurlock’s intentions, but Super Size Me was so over the top it’s closer to a comedic mockumentary.
Here’s the moment I gave up on Super Size Me as a serious exploration of fast food’s role in America’s obesity problem.
On Day 2 of his experiment, very early in the film, Spurlock visited a McDonald’s and ordered a Double Quarter Pounder with Cheese, large fries, and a 42-ounce Coca-Cola. Spurlock grabbed the meal and went to his car to eat it. Cameras captured him digging in.
It took him 52 minutes to finish the meal, moaning all the time about how much food was in the bag. He didn’t know how anybody could eat this much food. Spurlock finally choked down a last bite of burger and fries — and unleashed a torrent of vomit in the parking lot. Puke everywhere.
I don’t know about you, but when I see or hear somebody retching, it gags me and I feel like I’m going to lose my lunch, too.
Tens of thousands of people around the world ordered a Double Quarter Pounder with Cheese, large fries, and Coke that same day in 2004. I doubt if anybody other than Spurlock hurled. That’s a thing about McDonald’s. They’re obsessive about food safety, preparation, and consistency. You get the same burgers and fries in Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam as you do on Westheimer in Houston.
I’ve eaten the Double Quarter Pounder Meal. I’ve kept it down every time. It doesn’t take me 52 minutes to finish a McDonald’s meal, either. That’s ridiculous. Me? Ten minutes tops. I’m half done by the time I leave the parking lot. What was Spurlock doing, licking his burger like a lollipop?
I know my way around the McDonald’s menu. Also Burger King’s and Wendy’s menu. For 22 years, I wrote a nationally syndicated, weekly fast food review column — that’s more than 1,000 burgers, pizza, fried chicken, tacos, and hot fudge sundaes.
Lots of burps. Never threw up.
You know why there’s a line of cars spilling into the street outside McDonald’s in the morning and Chick-fil-A the rest of the day? It’s because people like their Egg McMuffins and Spicy Chicken Sandwiches. Also because fast food is less expensive than fancy sitdown restaurants with tablecloths where you have to leave a tip.
Personal note: I’m not crazy about restaurants where you order at the counter and they whip around a screen asking how much of a tip you want to leave. I feel pressured.
I don’t know any fast food chain that suggests that guests eat every meal, all day long there. McDonald’s doesn’t. The only company that came close to that was Dr Pepper. It used to be right there on the bottle cap, drink a Dr Pepper at 10 am, 2 pm, and 4 pm.
Drink 90-something bottles of Dr. Pepper in one month and tell me how you feel.
Spurlock picked McDonald’s because it’s the biggest, most successful fast food chain. Everybody knows about Big Macs, McFlurrys, and those fantastic fries. McDonald’s was a sitting duck, an easy target.
Spurlock said seven times a cashier in Houston offered him the option of supersizing his meal. McDonald’s has since stopped the upselling supersize gimmick.
What’s your favorite restaurant in Houston? I’m a big fan of Pappas Restaurants. One of things that people love about Pappas restaurants is their big portions, the sheer amount of food on your plate. You get value at Pappas restaurants … and a doggie bag.
If Spurlock had eaten every meal at a Pappas restaurant for 30 days — 90 meals total — they’d have to use a fork lift to get him on the plane back to New York.
Here’s something that Spurlock didn’t mention in Super Size Me. Years after the film’s release, Spurlock revealed that he had long battled with alcohol abuse. He did not alter his consumption of alcohol during the filming of Super Size Me.
Several years ago, two teenage girls in New York blamed McDonald’s for their full figures and sued the giant burger chain. A judge tossed their lawsuit.
Bottom line: take some personal responsibility. If you eat fast food every once in a while, don’t double up the Quarter Pounders, use your noodle and work in a little exercise you won’t get supersized. No guarantees on sexual performance.