Each week I look for a new way that active Houstonians can escape their air-conditioned abodes and enjoy the great outdoors, be it on the bayou or at the kickball field. But enough with the exercise. This weekend I want to touch on an outdoor activity dear to all carnivorous Texans, outdoorsy and sedentary alike – barbecue.

I caught up with Levi Goode, of Goode Company fame, for some professional advice for backyard barbecuers gearing up for another savory summer and Memorial Day weekend.

What do you look for at the butcher shop?

“You want a bright white fat," Goode says. "You want to stay away from any off-color, yellowish-type fat. You want to look for something that’s got a bright red color to it ... Don’t be afraid to engage the butcher with conversation and talk to them. Typically what I’ve found is a lot of these butchers really have a passion for the craft that they’re doing, and they really enjoy talking about what they do and where their product comes from ... they can be a wealth of knowledge for a backyard griller.”

And once you get that delicious cut home ...

“You want to make sure the thickness of the meat is even ... If you have a 2-inch-thick piece of meat that tails off to a quarter-inch-thick, you’re going to end up overcooking that quarter inch before that 2-inch piece is done. So you might want to butterfly it, kind of fillet it over, or use a mallet or some sort of tenderizing hammer to be able spread that out and make it all an even thickness ... You want to pay attention to the grain, always, and you always want to cut against the grain.”

What are your thoughts on brining?

“Brining definitely is great on poultry and pork products ... Typically, brine is going to be equal parts salt and sugar or some sort of sweetener. It could be honey. It could be molasses. It could be brown sugar. There’s all sort of nuances to really get that savory, sweet flavor well balanced. And what you do is you dissolve those two agents into water and you soak the poultry or the pork ... it could be anywhere from 8 hours to, typically, 24 hours.”

What about marinades and dry rubs?

“Give yourself some time to prep your meat. The way we do it at the restaurant is we’ll dry rub our brisket, or whatever it is we want to smoke, and typically it’s marinating in those seasonings for 24 hours before we even put it on the pit. That makes a difference.”

Let’s talk wood. Goode Co. uses green mesquite for smoking and drier, more aged mesquite for grilling. Why?

“If you’ve ever had barbecue where it’s been over smoked, it’s almost got a numbing effect to the mouth, almost bitter-type taste. Anytime that you’re cooking at a real low temperature for a real long period of time, we’ve found that using wood that’s got a fresh cut tends just to be a superior product ... On grilling, you use more tender cuts of meat — naturally tender cuts of marinated meat that is over direct heat or direct flame, as opposed to indirect heat – so it’s a quicker process. So what you’re trying to achieve there is altogether different than coming off of a smoker”

How long do you guys smoke your brisket?

“Typically we’ll smoke at about 200 degrees for about an hour a pound.”

What’s your advice on slow cooking for those of us who sorely lack a backyard smoker?

“You can put the fire towards one side of your grill. You can put a water pan underneath the meat that you want to smoke, which creates a little bit more moisture and humidity for the meat that you’re smoking, which I’ve found has been beneficial for when you’re cooking for extended periods of time at a lower temperature ... the key is to keep your temperature constant.”

Any pointers on grilling steak?

“I get paper towels and dry them off real well and kind of get that surface moisture off the steaks. Then what I like to do is I like to rub them down with some neutral-flavored oil ... it allows you to get a good sear on that meat, which by doing that really kind of locks in the juices and the flavor.”

Recipes!

(Courtesy of Goode Company Barbecue)

Beef Rub: (also good for pork and lamb)

2 1/2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons paprika
2 teaspoons dry mustard
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 1/2 teaspoons dried sweet basil
1 teaspoon ground bay leaves
3/4 teaspoon ground coriander
3/4 teaspoon ground savory
3/4 teaspoon dried thyme
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon white pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt, to taste

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Store the mixture in an airtight container for up to four months (no need to refrigerate it).

To use the rub, massage it into the meat thoroughly the night before you plan to grill. Wrap the meat well in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator until grilling time to allow flavors to be absorbed into the meat. Makes 3/4 cup.


Barbecue Mop:

4 cups beef broth
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/4 cup chopped onions
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
1/4 cup chopped celery
Juice of 2 lemons
1/4 cup chopped green bell pepper
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/4 cup minced garlic
2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
2 tablespoons Goode Company Barbeque Beef Rub (see recipe)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1 pound finely chopped bacon

Bring broth, bay leaves and oregano to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, celery, green pepper, garlic, Beef Rub, mustard, salt, white and black pepper, and cayenne. Cook until browned, about 5 to 7 minutes, then add to broth along with the lemon zest, juice, soy sauce, vinegar and the oils. Stir to combine.

Cook the bacon in a nonstick skillet until soft. Add the bacon and any rendered fat to the broth mixture. Continue simmering until the broth is reduced by a fourth, about 45 minutes to an hour. Adjust the seasonings and baste away. Makes 6 cups.