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    Houston's newest BBQ Joint

    Ambitious new Houston BBQ joint fires up EaDo with smoked meats and massive patio

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 12, 2021 | 11:32 am

    Barbecue created by a pitmaster who was once hailed as "destination worthy" has arrived in EaDo. J-Bar-M Barbecue quietly opened for service this week (2201 Leeland St).

    Led by pitmaster Willow Villarreal and his fiancee, chef de cuisine Jasmine Barela, J-Bar-M builds on the success the duo had at Willow's Texas Barbecue, a pop-up-turned-food truck that earned praise from Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn and other smoked meat experts. Although the truck closed, Villarreal and Barela have been presented with a grand new restaurant to showcase their talents.

    Named for its owners, real estate developer John Toomey and his wife, Michelene Guseman Toomey, J-Bar-M takes its cooks out of the truck and into a massive, no expense spared, 350-seat, brick and mortar restaurant that features a full bar and an expansive outdoor patio. The over 8,000-square-foot building and its corresponding patio and parking lot occupy almost an entire city block of land that's been in the Toomey family for over 100 years, according to a release.

    Four, 1,000-gallon, barrel-style offset smokers made by acclaimed Texas pitmaker Moburg Smokers testify to the restaurant's ambitions. In addition, the pit room contains two hog cookers powered by a dedicated fireplace for burning coals.

    "To have great barbecue, you must start with high-quality meats and then pay attention to all the small details," Villarreal said in a statement. "We don’t necessarily have some secret method that is different from all the others. It’s just that Jasmine and I obsess over doing every, single thing the best we possibly can."

    For now, the restaurant is open for lunch Thursday through Sunday with a straightforward menu of Texas barbecue that includes brisket, pork ribs, pulled pork, turkey, and two kinds of sausage (pepper and jalapeno-cheese). In time, plans call for the menu to expand with more proteins such as chicken, pork steak, prime rib, and rack of lamb. The kitchen also includes a wood-burning grill that will play a role in the upcoming dinner service to serve steaks and other dishes.

    Barela has created an extensive menu of sides the run the gamut from traditional favorites like mac and cheese, potato salad, and creamed corn to more creative options such as marinated tomatoes, cauliflower au gratin, and Tex-Mex style charro beans. Chocolate pie and banana pudding are among the dessert choices at opening, but they will also grow to include a giant cinnamon roll, peach cobbler, and more.

    “Truthfully, sides have always been my favorite part of a meal,” Barela said. “I usually look for balance, innovation, freshness and texture. I can always appreciate a meal if it was prepared with love and care.”

    Those dishes can be paired with a range of beverages that includes sodas, beer, wine, and cocktails. A two-sided bar serving both the dining room and the patio helps ensure speedy service.

    The restaurant sees itself as continuing the traditions of Houston's "barbecue wards," and it is situated between the Third to the south and the Fifth to the north. A mural on the patio pays homage to many of those pioneering barbecue joints along with a few other landmarks like the nearby University of Houston campus.

    A small group of carefully vetted experts are helping Villarreal and Barela make the transition from #trucklife to restaurant service. They include the restaurant's culinary director, chef Mark Mason (Pappas Restaurants), front of house expert Jessica DeSham Timmons (Redneck Country Club, Cherry Block), and Houston Chronicle barbecue columnist J.C. Chris Reid. Cafe Rabelais owner Christophe Paul contributed his expertise to the restaurant's wine list.

    Fresh off the heels of Texas Monthly's most recent list of the state's top 50 barbecue joints, J-Bar-M certainly possesses the culinary talent and ambition necessary to be a contender for the next list in 2025. Whether it achieves those heights remains to be seen, of course, but it's certainly an intriguing addition to a neighborhood that's rapidly emerging as Houston's next great eating and drinking destination.

    An expansive patio features a stage.

    J Bar M Barbecue patio
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
    An expansive patio features a stage.
    barbecuenews-you-can-eatopenings
    news/restaurants-bars

    something for everyone

    New brewery pours into Houston with craft beer, cocktails, and homebrew

    Ralph Palmer
    Apr 10, 2026 | 12:29 pm
    Farmboy Brewing Company
    Photo by Ralph Palmer
    Farmboy Brewing Company is now open on N. Shepherd.

    The tides of craft breweries in Houston and across the country have shifted dramatically over the past five years, marked by closures and a clear softening of the once unstoppable boom, with names like True Anomaly, Elder Son, and Buffalo Bayou Brewing serving as recent reminders of how quickly the landscape can change. What is emerging in its place is a new phase that is far less rigid about labels and more focused on flexibility and meeting customers where they actually are.

    For Landon Weiershausen, that evolution is not guesswork. It's the entire business plan.

    After more than a decade running Farmboy Brew Shop and working across nearly every space of the beer supply chain, (hops to kegs to fruit) Weiershausen has stepped back into ownership with a new brewery. Farmboy Brewing Company (4816 N Shepherd Dr.) blends a taproom, full cocktail bar, and homebrew retail shop into a single, community-driven space. The location will be familiar to many craft beer fans, as it previously housed both North Shepherd Brewing and Astral Brewing.

    “It’s about giving people what they actually want when they walk in the door,” Weiershausen tells CultureMap.

    Weiershausen’s roots in Houston’s beer world stretch back to 2014, when he opened Farmboy Brew Shop, a go-to spot for local Oak Forest/Garden Oaks homebrewers looking for ingredients, gear, and advice. With the launch of Farmboy Brewing, that business still exists, but it’s now integrated into the new brewery.

    The move creates something unique in the world of Houston beer — a space where hobbyists, beer nerds, and casual drinkers can intersect. In the 9,000-square-foot space, customers can shop for grains and yeast then walk a few steps over and grab a pint or a cocktail.

    “The majority of people coming in for homebrew are also interested in drinking,” Weiershausen says. “Now they don’t have to choose.”

    Instead of fighting changes in the beverage industry, Weiershausen is leaning into diversification. His brewery operates with a mixed beverage license, allowing for a full cocktail program alongside beer, wine, non-alcoholic options, and THC-infused drinks. That last category, while politically contentious in Texas, represents what he sees as an undeniable shift in consumer behavior. Currently, Weiershausen is stocking a few verities of THC-infused offerings from Eureka Heights Brew Co.

    “There’s a huge market for it,” he says. “Whether people like it or not, customers are choosing those products over traditional alcoholic beverages."

    Rather than drawing lines between beer drinkers and everyone else, the goal is to make the space work for large groups that have diverse drink preferences.

    “If someone doesn’t drink beer, or doesn’t drink alcohol at all, we still want them to have options.”

    Despite the brewery name on the door, Weiershausen isn’t rushing his own beer to market. Instead, the tap list currently leans on guest kegs from local and regional breweries such as Great Heights, Spindletap, Saint Arnold, and Lone Pint. This decision is a deliberate move that buys time while new brewing equipment is installed and optimized. It’s a patient approach that prioritizes long-term quality over a fast rollout and reflects lessons learned from years inside the industry. In the meantime, the guest taps double as a nod to relationships that Weiershausen has built over many years.

    “A lot of these are people who took care of me over the years,” he says. “This is a way to return the favor.”

    Once the brewing program is rolled out in the next few weeks, expect the first batch of offering to include a West Coast IPA, Hazy IPA, Light Lager, and an American Wheat. The program itself will also be led by head brewer Steven Treleaven, formerly of Conroe’s B-52 Brewing.

    Weiershausen’s vision prioritizes education. The homebrew shop has always served as an entry point for teaching its customers more about beer, but the expanded space opens the door to something he describes as an “education escalator.” Plans include monthly workshops covering everything from brewing basics to off-flavor detection (a critical skill for anyone serious about improving their homebrew).

    Like most breweries, the space will feature familiar weekly staples including trivia nights, but Weiershausen is also looking to mix in less predictable programming. Think dance classes, themed events, and rotating concepts that go beyond the usual bingo-and-beer formula.

    On the food side, Weiershausen has chosen not to build an in-house kitchen. Instead, the brewery will host food trucks, including the return of fan-favorite El Alabrije, known for its Oaxacan-inspired menu.

    At its core, the concept reflects something bigger than one brewery. It’s a response to a changing market, a shifting customer base, and a city that’s never fit neatly into one category anyway. For Weiershausen, the path forward isn’t about choosing between beer, cocktails, or anything else. It’s about building a place where all of it works together.

    “We’re just trying to create something for the community,” he says. “Whatever that means for them.”

    ----

    Ralph Palmer is a co-owner of the Deckle and Hyde barbecue pop-up and a longtime craft beer enthusiast. Follow him on Instagram at eyefearnobeer.

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