txmo top 50 revealed

7 smokin' Houston-area joints sizzle on Texas Monthly's surprising new best BBQ in Texas list

Truth Barbeque leads the way in Houston.

Texas Monthly has shaken up the barbecue world. The magazine’s newly released list of the state’s top 50 barbecue joints makes major changes to the conventional wisdom surrounding where to find the best 'cue in Texas.

Presented as a ranked top 10, 40 additional restaurants listed alphabetically by city, and 50 honorable mentions, the magazine’s team of 32 staff writers and three freelancers compiled the rankings by visiting 411 establishments during the spring and summer. With 29 new entrants — including four of the top five — the list leans heavily towards restaurants that have opened since Texas Monthly last ranked barbecue joints in 2017.

Despite all the changes, barbecue fans shouldn't panic. Texas Monthly’s message to readers isn’t that the old places have gotten worse in the last four years. Rather, they’ve been outshined by restaurants that cook a wider selection of meats than the classic Texas trinity of brisket, ribs, and sausage; prepare a more diverse selection of sides than potato salad, beans, and cole slaw; and show a willingness to incorporate international flavors into their preparations.

“In short, if you were hoping for an argument that innovation is getting out of hand and it’s time to retrench and return to the simpler days of barbecue, you won’t find it here,” the magazine writes. “But have no fear: if you’re an old-school stalwart who blanches at the thought of smoked cauliflower, plenty of places on our list will make you very happy.”

Here’s the top 10 in order:

Goldee’s Barbecue (Fort Worth)
InterStellar BBQ (Austin)
Truth Barbeque (Houston)
Burnt Bean Co. (Seguin)
LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue (Austin)
Cattleack Barbeque (Dallas)
Franklin Barbecue (Austin)
Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque (Wolfforth)
Snow’s BBQ (Lexington)
Panther City BBQ (Fort Worth)

Compared to 2017’s top 10, Franklin Barbecue, which ranked number one statewide in 2013 and number two in 2017, now ranks third in Austin. Snow’s, which took the top spot in both 2008 and 2017 and became an international sensation after Netflix’s Chef’s Table documentary series featured pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz, drops to ninth. Truth rises from 10th to third, while Evie Mae's moves up one spot. Louie Mueller Barbecue, CorkScrew BBQ, and Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue move from top 10 to second 40, while Bodacious Bar-B-Q in Longview is off the list entirely.

Overall, Houston’s results are a mixed bag with six restaurants in the top 50 and five honorable mentions. In addition to Truth, three new restaurants join the top 50: Blood Bros. BBQ (Bellaire), Brett’s Barbecue Shop (Katy), and Feges BBQ in Spring Branch. They're joined by CorkScrew BBQ (Spring), Killen's Barbecue (Pearland), and Tejas Choclate + Barbecue (Tomball). While Pinkerton’s BBQ’s location in the Heights isn’t listed, the restaurant’s bigger, grander San Antonio location earns a spot on the top 50; we’ll assume both restaurants serve similar quality food.

Gatlin’s BBQ and Roegels Barbecue Co. move from 2017’s top 50 into the honorable mentions where they’re joined by Dozier’s BBQ & Meat Market (Fulshear), Pizzitola’s Bar-B-Que, and Harlem Road Texas BBQ (Richmond). Montrose restaurant The Pit Room, a top 50 restaurant in 2017, does not make the list at all in 2021.

Two restaurants with Houston ties also earned spots in the top 50. Eaker Barbecue in Fredericksburg started as a Bayou City food truck, while Mimsy’s Craft Barbecue in Crocket is owned by pitmaster Wade Elkins, an alum of both Feges BBQ and Magnolia’s Reveille Barbecue Co, and his wife Kathy, a chef whose resume include Hunky Dory and Harold’s in the Heights.

As for the rest of the state, the Austin area leads the way with eight restaurants in the top 50 plus six honorable mentions. Dallas restaurants earn seven spots in the 50 and five honorable mentions, with Fort Worth taking four spots in the top 50 and three honorable mentions. San Antonio has three top 50 restaurants plus three honorable mentions.

In addition to the lists, the magazine's coverage includes features on the merits of barbecue sauce, favorite barbecue dishes, standout sides, and the best desserts. See the Texas Monthlywebsite for all the delicious details.

barbecue

the more things change

Houston's essential Jewish diner looks better than ever after refresh

Photo by Sergio Trevino

The dining room has more light than ever.

It’s tricky to renovate a restaurant that’s as essential to its community as New York Deli. A staple of Houston’s Jewish community for almost 50 years, the tiny restaurant near Meyerland will serve as many as 400 people during a busy Sunday brunch.

Still, the time had come, as the tape on the deteriorating banquettes and peeling wallpaper illustrated. With the restaurant’s lease up for renewal, co-owner Michael Saghian saw an opportunity for some updates.

“I couldn’t be the new guy who ruined the place by moving it,” he tells CultureMap. “We worked out a deal with the landlord [to stay] and did a big refresh.”

The most noticeable change is the removal of the restaurant’s front door and vestibule. Instead, diners enter through the restaurant’s companion bagel shop. Separate entrances made sense when the bagel shop was certified kosher by local religious authorities, but now that designation only applies to the Bellaire location that opened in 2020. Not only is the new setup easier for people with mobility issues to navigate, it allows more light into the dining room, brightening the place considerably..

Saghian and co-owner Riana Sherman worked with interior designer Erin Hicks on the refresh. Tables, chairs, and banquettes are all new, but the color scheme remains the same. The process yielded 10 more seats, and the furniture is a little more durable, too.

“People have flipped chairs because they’re so lightweight,” Sherman says. “We got a sturdier chair.”

Behind the scenes, an expanded kitchen allows for the restaurant’s cooks to work faster and more efficiently. An additional egg cooker should cut down the amount of time people wait for their food to arrive.

“The kitchen had one of everything. Now we have two of everything. We can pump out a lot more food,” Saghian says.

Photographs on the walls honor longtime customers such as the “bagel girls,” a group of woman who’ve eaten breakfast at the restaurant since the ‘80s. A piece of old wallpaper has been framed and hung on the wall, too, as a nod to the space’s history.

New York Deli interior changes Photographs on the walls honor longtime customers.Photo by Sergio Trevino

Photo by Sergio Trevino

The dining room has more light than ever.

Saghian says he suffered from sleepless nights as he worried about people’s reactions to the changes, but so far his customers have been effusive.

“It still feels like an old school diner,” Saghian says. “It has pieces you remember. Even the new stuff is old school.”

While the physical environment is new, the staff remains the same. To ensure he kept the same team of cooks and servers, Saghian paid their wages for the two weeks the restaurant was closed for renovations.

Even more importantly, the prices are the same. That’s something that will make even the oldest regulars happy.

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