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    What's Eric Eating Episode 211

    The scoop on Montrose's craftiest ice cream spot, plus the latest food news

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 7, 2021 | 3:52 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Kim Kaase and chef Steve Marques join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Craft Creamery. Open since late 2020, the Montrose ice cream shop serves flavors made with natural ingredients.

    Marques, who received classic French training in London, brings a chef's discipline to all of Craft Creamery's creations. While the shop serves all the traditional flavors, he's also developed more unusual options like jalapeno cornbread, brisket, and pho. Kaase, who holds the unofficial title of chief tasting officer, brings business acumen from her time as a consultant.

    The interview provides Sandler with the opportunity to mix it up with Marques about the decisions he's made in regards to creating flavors, why he doesn't use many inclusions like candy or nuts, and the texture he aims to achieve with each of Craft Creamery's flavors.

    "Like a great piece of chocolate, you never have to chew it. The Swiss say all you should have to do is put it on your tongue, because the chocolate does the rest of the work," Marques says. "It allows it to fill your palate the appropriate way. For me, the texture has to be silky. Even in small amounts, it fills your palate, because it's not icy . . . our stuff because of the fat content just coats."

    Listen to the whole segment to hear about Craft Creamery's new menu items, plans to expand their retail distribution, and a new collaboration with Crave Cupcakes.

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: the latest announcement of food vendors coming this fall to Post Houston; Brandon Kerne becoming Houston's newest master sommelier; and the recent opening of Lulu's, an Italian restaurant in River Oaks.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, the two hosts share the highs and lows of a meal at Casa Nomad, the Tulum-inspired patio bar that just opened in the M-K-T mixed-use development. Things may not have gone as planned, but Sandler vows to give it another chance.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Craft Creamery features many non-traditional flavors.

    Craft Creamery ice cream flight
    Photo by Stephanie Lam Photography
    Craft Creamery features many non-traditional flavors.
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    recess time

    Family-friendly Houston restaurant opens with supervised playground

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 23, 2026 | 9:31 am
    Recess restaurant playground
    Courtesy of Recess
    Recess is now open on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    Houston’s newest family-friendly restaurant has opened its doors. Recess offers a number of amenities designed to appeal to busy families.

    Located on the border of Montrose and River Oaks (1500 Waugh Dr.), the two-story venue offers two climate-controlled playgrounds downstairs — the Garden, designed for children ages 1-3 where parents are present, and the Canopy, a larger area for kids 4-11 that’s supervised by trained professionals. Once parents check their kids in at the Canopy, they can go upstairs to the restaurant for a meal that’s uninterrupted by their kids.



    In an interview on CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, founders JD Davy and Paul Rice explain that they wanted to create a venue that would serve parents like themselves who wanted a family-friendly dining option with good quality food, wine, and cocktails.

    “We felt like there was this massive gap in the market between places designed entirely for children and places designed for adults. There weren’t many places where families could enjoy spending time together,” Davy says.

    “We settled on Recess after we asked a simple question — What if there was a place designed for both kids and adults? A place where kids could have an incredible play experience while parents could enjoy great coffee, food, or a glass of wine while getting some work done or meeting a friend,” he adds.

    Recess worked with Houston firm Rootlab on its play area. The Canopy offers a series of climbing structures and slides that allow kids to explore the entire area. Davy and Rice hired consultants to ensure the structures are as safe as possible.

    “It’s museum-quality design and finishes. It looks gorgeous,” Rice says. “It’s super safe. We’ve had ADA consultants, fire consultants, you name it, we’ve had consultants sign off on it. As far as it being safe, no question whatsoever.”

    Access to the play area is only available with a reservation. Parents have various pricing options, including monthly memberships that offer up to 12 hours per week of play — $130 for weekday-only or $180 for all week, with discounts available for additional children.

    Hourly prices start at $18.50 per hour for the first child, $14 per hour for the second child, and $10 for each additional child, but parents can pay an annual fee of $50 per child that unlocks a 20 percent discount on hourly rates. Of course, Recess has separate rates for birthday parties and other events. Children must wear grippy socks in the play area, which are available for $2 per pair for kids who don’t bring their own from home.

    Reservations allow Recess to limit the number of children playing at any given time, and the play area’s employees are all trained to keep kids safe. It's that staff, and the air conditioning, that differentiates Recess from other restaurants with playgrounds such as Long Weekend.

    “We’ve got women with teaching backgrounds, nursing backgrounds all working to create this environment where parents can watch their kids play from upstairs,” Rice adds. “It’s designed to allow helicopter parents to separate for a bit where they can see everything is okay but actually talk without an iPad being flung at them.”

    Davy and Rice worked with Scott Sulma of May I Speak Hospitality Consulting on Recess’ food and beverage offerings. The menu leans into classic American fare, with options such as chips and queso, deviled eggs, flatbreads, sandwiches, and mains such as steak frites and grilled salmon. Sulma also created a wine list that draws on his time as the general manager at Tony’s and an area director for Atlas Restaurant Group (Loch Bar, Marmo).

    The kids menu covers all the familiar bases, including a cheeseburger, crispy (or grilled) chicken bites, grilled cheese, chicken or beef tacos, and buttered penne pasta.

    “The food is good but its still approachable. Think like a Local Foods or Hudson House, good quality food that’s approachable,” Davy says.

    “Relish is the most immediate comp we like to use,” Rice adds. “Kids have to eat the food. We’re not going to serve them anything [too gourmet].”

    While people without children are welcome to dine at Recess, the partners are realistic about who their audience is. "There is not a single dollar in our model for a person who comes without kids," Rice affirms.

    Recess opens daily at 8 am.


    Recess restaurant playground

    Courtesy of Recess

    Recess is now open on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

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