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    Sarcastic Pop-Up Dinner

    A sarcastic pop-up dinner: Houston chef shakes it up at a popular coffee shop

    Layne Lynch
    Aug 24, 2013 | 8:31 am

    Sunday is a big night for Houston foodies.

    At 5 p.m., Blacksmith is featuring a pop-up dinner by guest chef Michael Gaspard of Pappas, along with Brandon Silva and Justin Basye. This is the fifth dinner the popular Montrose coffee bar has featured this year. Previous pop-ups included Grant Gordon of Tony's, Willet Feng, Mala Sichuan and Pho Binh by Night.

    David Buehrer, co-owner of Blacksmith, has infused a strong culinary influence into his coffee shop, featuring a well-rounded, well-executed menu of pastries, biscuits and sandwiches, along with these exciting regular pop-ups.

    "Everything on the menu is very tongue and cheek and rather sarcastic."

    In piecing together the menu for his Sunday dinner, Gaspard focused on innards, calling the dishes protein driven, playful and creative.

    "I wanted to feature ingredients that are typically unapproachable and complicated and make them more approachable," he says. "Everything on the menu is very tongue and cheek and rather sarcastic.

    "These are heavier ingredients, but we're going to do smaller, lighter portions so it's not too overwhelming."

    Gaspard's menu features six items: Corned veal tongue with soft polenta, sweetbreads with fingerling potatoes, foie gras with onions (a play on liver and onions), coconut, green apple, onion and lemon verbena salad, braised pork shoulder, barbecue beef rib and a butterscotch pudding (made with very bad scotch, Gaspard jokes).

    The rib, foie gras and pork shoulder are what the Pappas chef feels will be the paramount dishes of his one-night-only menu.

    "I've made the pork shoulder dish before and it's something I get asked about by at least 15 people all the time," he says. "I braise it with lemon and milk and it comes out incredibly tender."

    Interestingly enough, Gaspard's beef rib was inspired by notorious Austin pitmaster: John Mueller. "I ate at John Mueller Barbecue recently and that whole experience was insane," Gaspard says. "John Mueller is a genius, and I'm not going to say the ribs are going to be on his level, but it's definitely inspired by his technique."

    Blacksmith's pop-up dinners have become wildly popular over the past few months, with the line typically running outside the door before the event even commences, so it's best to arrive early for this dinner if you want to grab a bite before the food runs out.

    For those who are in the mood for barbecue fare instead of offal and sweetbreads, Underbelly chef Patrick Feges will also be preparing an early dinner this Sunday. He will feature a menu of brisket, ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, beef sandwiches, smoked Frito pies and shortbread cookies from Tessie's Treats outside Anvil Bar & Refuge starting at 5 p.m.

    Choose a side, or if your feeling brazen, hit up both of these Sunday dinners. Just don't forget to wear stretchy pants.

    Blacksmith has made itself into more than a coffee spot.

    david buehrer latte art
      
    Photo by Dillon Sorensen
    Blacksmith has made itself into more than a coffee spot.
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    a CultureMap Exclusive

    Canadian comfort food restaurant puts down roots in prime Houston spot

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 29, 2025 | 12:46 pm
    Cactus Club Cafe exterior
    Courtesy of Cactus Club Cafe
    Cactus Club Cafe is coming to Houston.

    One of Canada’s most popular restaurants is coming to Houston. Cactus Club Cafe will open its third U.S. location in the BLVD Place development.

    Located next to North Italia in a former Verizon store, Cactus Club Cafe will occupy a two-level space with more than 12,000 square feet. Founded in Vancouver in 1988, the restaurant, which describes itself in press materials as "Canada’s leader in elevated casual dining" is known for its wide range of comfort food, lively environment, and excellent service.

    Christine Mastandrea, president and COO for real estate development firm Whitestone REIT, tells CultureMap that the company wanted to add a restaurant to increase traffic at the Whole Foods-anchored development.

    While many of the restaurants on Post Oak Blvd. are fine dining — a list that includes The Annie Cafe, Uchiko, and Caracol (among many others) — Whitestone decided a more casual restaurant would serve the neighborhood well.

    “You have to mix in locations people can go back to, because it has a broad range of offerings. You have a place where people connect,” Mastandrea says. “It’s a price point where you can come often. You can meet up with your neighborhood friends there or go after work, because it doesn’t break the bank.”

    Whitestone had a lot of interest from operators who wanted to join North Italia, True Foods Kitchen, and The Original Ninfa’s in the development, Mastandrea adds. When she traveled to Toronto to visit Cactus Club, she liked what she found.

    “What I saw is, number one, they’re comfortable in two stories. They’re also aware of how to operate in a multi-level building. They design to be a good neighbor,” Mastandrea says. “The consistency across locations was the same. The quality of food, the flow of people coming in and out. The other thing is, people are looking for healthier options. They have choices.”

    For its part, Cactus Club saw an opportunity to add Houston to its growing list of American locations that, for now, only includes Miami and Boston.

    “Our dedicated team is working hard to bring Cactus Club Cafe’s elevated everyday dining to Houston,” president Andrew Latchford said in a statement. “We look forward to sharing our upbeat and stylish vibe — fueled by energetic music, magnetic people, and spaces that feel as good as they look. On the culinary side of things, our future Houston guests can look forward to our chef-driven menu to deliver bold, refined dishes with something for every craving.”

    That menu, created by executive chef of culinary development Gregory McCallum, offers a crowd-pleasing array of dishes that includes sushi, shareables such as chicken wings and lettuce wraps, salads, sandwiches, burgers, pastas, steaks, and seafood. In particular, Mastandrea says the signature Truffle Parmesan Chicken and Blackened Creole Chicken shows off the restaurant’s ability to serve flavorful versions of familiar fare.

    “They walked me through this whole process of how they brined it and treated it prior to cooking,” she says about the chicken dishes she tried. “For a meat that can be bland tasting, I thought it was really good.”

    Mastandrea also praised the restaurant’s interior. Cactus Club gives each location a unique look by purchasing original art to enhance the restaurant’s ambiance.

    “They pay special attention to bringing the outdoors into the space,” she adds. “I think they’ll surprise us with some things that are unique to the area that people will appreciate.”

    Cactus Club Cafe exterior
      

    Courtesy of Cactus Club Cafe

    Cactus Club Cafe is coming to Houston.

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