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    What's Eric Eating Episode 62

    Sneak peek at healthy Montrose cafe, plus first bite of Roman-style pizza

    CultureMap Staff
    Aug 17, 2018 | 10:40 am

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Kelly Barnhart joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Vibrant, her healthy eating concept that's scheduled to open soon. The Montrose restaurant's menu takes its inspiration from a diet Barnhart developed for her daughter; all of its dishes are gluten-free, dairy-free, do not contain processed sugars or GMO ingredients, and are beautiful to look at.

    "I backed into it, really. I didn't start out thinking about wanting to be a restaurateur," Barnhart says. "Really, what inspired this pursuit is I had my little girl six years ago, and I became so interested in how to promote her well being, how to do a good job in growing her in the most healthy and vibrant way that I could. That pursuit tuned me in to my interests in well being and ways to create well being for people. Vibrant the restaurant was born out of raising my daughter."

    Barnhart hired lifestyle blogger Alison Wu to develop Vibrant's menu, even though Wu has no formal restaurant training. Why take such an unusual step?

    I spent two years working with various restaurant chefs trying to create the vision that I had for the food that I wanted to have. I utterly lack in culinary skill . . . I was trying to verbally translate the vision that I had. I didn't know the vision I had existed anywhere, so I was trying to explain it to people. That direction with restaurant-type chefs was unyielding, because they're so used to doing things the way that restaurants normally do them. That's not what I wanted. I wanted something entirely outside of the box.

    Finally, it occurred to me that I needed to go to someone who eats that way for themselves. It was a true, authentic expression of their own way of life instead of trying to get a chef to mimic something they don't innately do. I came across her food after years of searching and immediately recognized the vision I had in my mind is what she was naturally. I immediately knew she was the right person to articulate the vision.

    Prior to Barnhart's interview, Fluff Bake Bar owner Rebecca Masson joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include an extended conversation about Attorney General Jeff Sessions' controversial visit to El Tiempo: should restaurants serve people they may disagree with politically; the questionable merits of social media posts that include controversial figures (including a very funny anecdote from Masson about the Wu-Tang Clan); and whether El Tiempo will suffer any permanent damage to its business. From there, they move on to discuss both Understory, the latest food hall to announce plans to open downtown, and Railway Heights, the new market/food hall hybrid coming to the northern end of Washington Avenue. They also briefly touch on cocktail bar One Armed Scissor's plans to reopen downtown.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Sandler shares some first impressions of International Smoke, Michael Mina and Ayesha Curry's new restaurant in CityCentre, and Pizza Motus, the newly opened Roman-style pizzeria in West University Place. Finally, Masson discusses her recent essay for ChefsFeed titled, "I'm Not a Bitch — I'm the Boss."

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on iTunes or Google Play. Listen to it every Saturday at 11 am on SportsMap 94.1.

    Lunch options include soba noodle salad, a salmon rice bowl, and a za'atar socca.

    Vibrant Lunch Soba Noodle Salad, Salmon Rice Bowl, Za'atar Socca
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    Lunch options include soba noodle salad, a salmon rice bowl, and a za'atar socca.
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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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