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    Foodie News

    Enticing with spice: Award-winning chef makes Indian food easy and fat fighting

    Joel Luks
    Jun 1, 2013 | 2:55 pm

    Ambitious home cooks who begin dabbling with Indian cuisine learn early on just how confusing it can be.

    Identifying legumes feels like deciphering the Periodic Table of Elements. Have you tried browsing the aisles of an international grocer on a quest for lentils? The cornucopia of varietals can discombobulate any novice. Heck, I wouldn't blame anyone from throwing their arms up, calling it quits and opting for takeout. London Sizzler, anyone?

    Then there's the issue of spices. It's a wild world out there, y'all.

    Never fear though. Local cookbook author Shubhra Ramineni breaks it all down in her first tome, Entice with Spice: Easy Indian Recipes for Busy People. The secret, she proposes, is that many Indian dishes can be flavored with just five spices: Black pepper, salt, cumin seeds, turmeric and cayenne.

    More experienced chefs can add zest with mustard seeds, coriander, paprika, tamarind paste and garam masala, among other aromatics commonly found in your everyday, suburban markets. But please refrain from reaching for the bottle of curry powder. Because in authentic Indian cookery there's no such thing — at least not in how the term is used colloquially.

    "Simply, curry means sauce or gravy," Ramineni says. "No one uses curry powder in India. That's a western invention."

    Leave it up to a chemical engineer with a degree from the University of Texas at Austin and an MBA in finance from the University of Houston to be blessed with the analytical prowess to clarify such a complex tradition. Although she can even teach the gastronomically challenged — like those who can't boil water without burning it — to churn out delicious fare, this friendly gal's globetrotting journey with cooking didn't start off with the right foot.

    "A pinch of this, a dash of that, chop this other thing . . . that's how my mother tried to teach me how to cook," Ramineni says. "I would ask a million questions, and she would scold me for asking more questions. Well, that wasn't fun."

    Ramineni sought to document just how much "a pinch of this and a dash of that" translated into standard measurements.

    She then hit the stacks in search of a cookbook, many of which offered a bevy of intricate recipes, but for a busy professionals, there wasn't enough hours in the day to devote to elaborate, restaurant-style dals, soups and curries.

    "I couldn't find a cookbook written from the perspective of an Indian-American — someone who knows what's in stock in our grocery stores and who understands the pressures of being a working mom," Ramineni continues. "It shouldn't be so difficult to find Indian recipes for everyday meals that don't require a scavenger hunt for ingredients."

    The answer was right at home.

    Spending time in the kitchen with her mom, Neelam Verma, a nutritionist who grew up in Jalandhar and Chandigarh, cities in the northern Punjabi region of India, turned into a bit of a methodical science experiment. Ramineni sought to document just how much "a pinch of this and a dash of that" translated into standard measurements. She repeated this exercise with her mother-in-law, whose recipes are mused by her upbringing in Repalle, a coastal town on the eastern Andhra Pradesh area.

    The outcome was a beautifully photographed hardcover book, published in 2010, with more than 100 recipes that include popular restaurant dishes, like saag paneer, samosas and chicken tikka masala, alongside everyday home-style meals such as her father's baked salmon, sautéed okra with onions and black-eyed pea curry.

    Ramineni's second book, Healthy Indian Vegetarian Cooking: Easy Recipes for the Hurry Home Cook, which will be released later this month, continues her efforts to rework Indian cuisine for the modern kitchen — with a locavore and nutritional twist that's also vegan friendly.

    Influenced by her mother's occupation in addition to the present-day trend that advocates for the consumption of locally sourced ingredients, Healthy Indian Vegetarian Cooking marries the lighter side of the subcontinent's cooking techniques with produce grown by Texas farmers. Among her favorite vendors are All We Need Farm in Needville, Home Sweet Farm in Brenham, Basketcase in Jones Creek and Blackwood Bounty in Hempstead, many of whom are merchants at Urban Harvest Farmers Market.

    "I hope my vegetarian cookbook is an option for those looking to eat healthfully without giving up flavor."

    You get the idea from poring over the step-by-step recipes, which include Indian style corn on the cob, green lentils and kale stew, collard greens and parsnips, and pan-seared Brussels sprouts. There's even tofu breakfast scramble and tandoori tofu kebabs that will knock your taste buds off their rockers.

    It's an East meets West and a past-and-present type of thing that takes into consideration what's in fashion. Like quinoa.

    "You can't have a healthy vegetarian cookbook without a quinoa dish," she jokes. "Even Monica Pope — she wrote the foreword — told me you have to have a quinoa dish. I have to admit I had no idea what to do with quinoa, but I knew I had come up with something good when my daughter asked me to pack some for her lunch."

    Her quinoa cashew pilaf won Phoenicia Specialty Foods' Mommy's Favorite Recipe Contest. Not bad for a quinoa newbie.

    "I grew up mainly eating vegetarian," Ramineni explains. "I hope my vegetarian cookbook is an option for those looking to eat healthfully without giving up flavor."

    A launch party for Healthy Indian Vegetarian Cooking is set for 7 p.m. June 25 at Whole Foods Market Montrose. The $20 admission fee includes a copy of the new cookbook along with a donation to Recipe for Success, whose mission to fight childhood obesity aligns with Ramineni's thinking that delicious and healthy aren't mutually exclusive. And with Houston ranked as one of the fattest cities in the country, any additional resources are surely welcome.

    "Since becoming a new mom, teaching healthy eating habits to young kids is a cause that is near and dear to me," she adds.

    Courtesy of Ramineni, her award-winning recipe appears below.

    Quinoa Cashew Pilaf Recipe

    Prep time: 10 minutes
    Cook time: 25 minutes plus 5 minutes to rest
    Refrigerator life: Three days
    Freezer life: One month
    Reheating method: Place the refrigerated or defrosted quinoa in a microwave and stir periodically. Or, place the quinoa in a saucepan and warm over medium-low heat, stirring periodically.

    • 1 cup uncooked white quinoa
    • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
    • 20 whole cashews, split in half lengthwise
    • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
    • 1 small onion, thinly sliced into half-moons
    • 1 medium russet potato (about 1/2 pound) peeled and diced into 1/4-inch cubes
    • 2 medium carrots, peeled and diced into 1/4-inch cubes
    • 1/2 cup frozen or fresh green peas
    • 2 cups water
    • 1 teaspoon salt
    • 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric

    1. Place quinoa in a large sieve. Run cold water over it to thoroughly wash the grains. While washing the quinoa, rub the grains with your fingers to thoroughly clean them. Drain the quinoa.

    2. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a medium saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is heated, add the cashews. Sauté until the cashews are light golden, stirring frequently, about 30 seconds. Remove the cashews from the saucepan and set aside.

    3. Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil into the saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is heated, add the cumin seeds and onion. Sauté the onion until lightly golden, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes.

    4. Add the sautéed cashews, potato, carrot, peas and quinoa. Stir to combine. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring frequently.

    5. Add the water, salt and turmeric. Stir to combine. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat.

    6. Stir and reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer undisturbed until the water is completely absorbed and you do not see any more water on the bottom of the saucepan if you insert a spoon through the quinoa, about 13 minutes. The quinoa will have turned slightly transparent, and the spiral-like germ will have separated from the grain and curl around it like a small thread.

    7. Turn off the heat. Let rest, covered, for 5 minutes on the warm stove. Keep covered until ready to serve or let cool to room temperature and refrigerate or freeze for later. Before serving, gently fluff the quinoa with a fork to mix the cashews and vegetables

    Indian style corn on the cob.

    Shubhra Ramineni vegan chef Corn on the cob
      
    Photo courtesy of © Periplus Editions
    Indian style corn on the cob.
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    stay frosty

    Burger Joint duo's new Hawaiian shaved ice spot chills out the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 5, 2025 | 2:18 pm
    Happy Go Lucky
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Happy Go Lucky opens Friday, June 6.

    The team behind The Burger Joint has a new way to make summer in Houston a little cooler. Restaurateur Shawn Bermudez and chef Matthew Pak will unveil Happy Go Lucky, their new shaved ice and frozen cocktails concepts, this Friday, June 6.

    Located next to The Taco Stand at 2102 N. Shepherd Drive in the Heights, Happy Go Lucky will served Hawaiian-style shaved ice, frozen cocktails, and desserts that combine the shaved ice and frozen cocktails. It evolved out of Bermudez’s desire to find a use for a building on the property he acquired to provide additional parking for The Burger Joint, The Taco Stand, and The Pizza Place, the duo’s new concept that will open in summer 2026 (more on that below).

    Bermudez tells CultureMap that both he and Pak had interest in a dessert concept. When Pak sampled shaved ice during a trip to Hawaii with his family, Happy Go Lucky’s direction became clear.

    “I wasn't a huge shaved ice fan, until I started trying them, but it set off a light bulb in my head. In Houston, there’s not a lot of that out here,” Pak says. “There’s shaved ice that’s less detailed — that you see at festivals and stuff.”

    Pak created eight flavors of shaved ice that diners may order. They include the Coco Loco (blue coconut and lime syrup, sweetened condensed milk, mochi, toasted coconut flakes, and coconut milk ice cream), the Bomb Pop (blue raspberry, cherry, and lemon syrups over vanilla ice cream), the Mangoada (mango syrup, mango puree, chamoy drizzle, chili powder, mango popping boba, vanilla ice cream), and the Strawberry Delight (strawberry syrup, strawberry puree, fresh strawberries, etc.). Diners can also build-their-own from a roster of 17 flavored syrups (everything from watermelon and lime to passion fruit and dill pickle), two ice creams that are made for Happy Go Lucky by Amy’s Ice Creams (vanilla and dairy-free coconut), eight toppings, and five drizzles.

    Realizing that the necessary equipment for making shaved ice wouldn’t take up that much space, Bermudez made the decision to add frozen cocktails. He sees Happy Go Lucky as fundamentally different from some of the drive-thru daiquiri bars that have popped up around Houston. His menu includes staples such as a margarita, strawberry daiquiri, pina colada, and frosé. It’s also possible to mix two together when they’re made in the same machine, such as the Miami Vice (strawberry daiquiri and pina colada), the Cherry Berry Bomb (blue raspberry lemonade and cherry limeade) or any three flavors of frozen margarita (lime watermelon, mango, strawberry, blood orange, wild berry, and pineapple).

    “What I’ve noticed is frozen cocktail concepts like drive-thru daiquiri places, it’s all sugar. I didn’t want to do that at this concept,” Bermudez says. “I wanted to elevate it and be on par with our local bar scene. I used more premium spirits and fresh purees for the fruit element as opposed to syrups. We’re using spirits as opposed to wine base that a lot of daiquiri places use.”

    Bermudez and Pak teamed up to create six drinks that combined a frozen cocktail base with a shaved ice topping. For example, the Very Pina Colada is a frozen pina colada topped with blue raspberry and pineapple shaved iced. The Island Dream takes the Miami Vice and tops it with passion fruit and pineapple shaved ice.

    “What I’ve been practicing the past month is making sure the ice’s texture is soft like it’s supposed to be,” Pak says. “That’s the big difference between real Hawaiian shaved ice and normal shaved ice.”

    Once Pak has Happy Go Lucky dialed in, he’ll turn his attention to opening the Montrose location of The Taco Stand. With employees already hired and training at the restaurant’s locations in the Heights and Webster, it should be ready in July. From there, Bermudez and Pak will turn their attention to opening The Burger Joint’s new location on Kirby Drive and the twin Burger Joint/Taco Stand coming to Gessner Road in Spring Branch. All of that growth of the two existing restaurants pushed back The Pizza Place to next year.

    “When we started the [Pizza Place], we did not have the Burger Joint on Kirby or the Burger Joint and Taco Stand on Gessner,” Bermudez says. “When we signed those deals, we had to shift. We’re going to focus on getting those open. When we have time, we’ll come back around to Pizza Place. It’s a new concept that Matt wants to take his time on.”

    Happy Go Lucky’s hour of operations are 12-10 pm daily. It offers dine-in, to-go, and drive-thru service.

    Happy Go Lucky
      

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Happy Go Lucky opens Friday, June 6.

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