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    Dramatic Heights Restaurant

    New Heights restaurant brings plenty of family history, dramatic views and Italian comfort food

    Eric Sandler
    May 14, 2014 | 12:31 pm

    Piatto Ristorante, the Galleria-area staple of classic Italian-American fare, recently moved its second location from Royal Oaks to an all new building in the Heights.

    Piatto owner John Marion Carrabba tells CultureMap that his family has a long history in the neighborhood. His great uncle once owned a fruit stand not far from his new location.

    "We looked at 15 spots," before deciding on this building. Carrabba says. "The upstairs will make you fall in love with the building." He's referring to the event space on the building's roof that provides a dramatic view of the downtown skyline to the east.

    Piatto doesn't serve cutting edge cuisine, but it's solid stuff. Who's ever said no to a plate of buttery, garlicky shrimp over pasta?

    The self-described "hands on owner" promises that diners will find a lot to like inside, too. The dining room has a clean look, with wooden tables, brick walls and concrete floors. Outside, the covered, 40-seat patio is dog-friendly, which Carrabba expects to appeal to both the owners of the lofts that are directly above him and foot traffic from the surrounding neighborhood.

    Dishes should be familiar to anyone who's visited the Galleria location during its 13-year history. Carrabba describes the cuisine as "Southern Italian homestyle," although the presence of jumbo lump crab meat on the restaurant's signature asparagus appetizer is probably more Gulf Coast than Mediterranean Sea. Housemade sausage and pizza are classic Italian comfort food. Other dishes are named for family members or longtime customers, which contributes to the family-friendly atmosphere.

    The new location also offers an expanded beer and cocktail selection to further appeal to the neighborhood.

    I sampled several dishes during a pre-arranged visit. Piatto doesn't serve cutting edge cuisine, but it's solid stuff. Who's ever said no to a plate of buttery, garlicky shrimp over pasta?

    Carrabba says he tries to "touch every table" and provide a "fine dining experience without fine dining clothes." During my visit, I watched Carrabba work the room, greeting customers by name. Some of his Galleria regulars have made their way to the new spot, and neighborhood residents have already made multiple visits.

    With a menu of classic comfort food and a comfortable, welcoming atmosphere, Piatto seems poised to replicate the long-term success of its Galleria location for a new audience.

    Sausage and peppers.

    Piatto sausage
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Sausage and peppers.
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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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