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    What's Eric Eating Episode 190

    Meet the artisan behind the MFAH's new cafe, plus fine dining in Montrose

    CultureMap Staff
    Apr 22, 2021 | 1:10 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Jonathan Benno joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Cafe Leonelli, the casual Italian restaurant that just opened in the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston's Kinder building. The conversation begins with Benno tracing the arc of his career, which includes working for six years as chef de cuisine at Per Se, acclaimed chef Thomas Keller's three-star Michelin restaurant in New York City.

    Cafe Leonelli is a decidedly casual affair. It serves focaccia, pastries, and Italian-American staples like meatballs and chicken cacciatore along a cafeteria-style serving line. Sandler asks the chef to explain how his fine dining background shapes the food at a casual concept.

    "There were a number of things that really resonated with me when I started at the French Laundry 25 years ago. And those principles remain with me today, Benno says. "That's cleanliness, organization, discipline, sense of urgency. We're making focaccia and scooping meatballs here, but those fundamentals we're trying to impress on a young team here. Commitment to quality ingredients . . . Working with local vendors, trying to source ingredients locally I think is really important."

    The conversation touches on a number of other topics, including what diners can expect from Cafe Leonelli; a brief mention of Le Jardinier, a vegetable-forward fine dining restaurant from chef Alain Verzeroli that will also open at the Museum; and the welcome chef Benno has received from his colleagues in the Houston restaurant industry. Sandler also asks the chef about the possibility of more concepts in Houston and where in town he's been eating.

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Tres Amigos Cafe y Cantina replacing Shepherd Park Draught House; Underground Hall owner Daut Elshani teaming up with chef Geoff Hundt to open a new restaurant in Garden Oaks; and chef Ben McPherson developing BOH Slice, a fast casual pizza concept based on his stand at Bravery Chef Hall.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Sandler and Clarkson dive deep into a recent meal they shared at March, the fine dining, tasting menu restaurant led by Goodnight Hospitality partners chef Felipe Riccio and master sommelier June Rodil. The restaurant is expensive — a nine-course dinner for two with wine pairings costs about $700 after tax and tip — but the duo rave about the menu's creativity and the quality of the service they experienced.

    "I recognize that this is beyond the means for a lot of people," Sandler says, "but just like I'm never going to pay the money to sit courtside at a Rockets game or for the very best theater tickets, people who have the means and appreciate this style of dining — there's nothing like this in Houston right now."

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    March is the restaurant of the week.

    March restaurant dining room
      
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    March is the restaurant of the week.
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    bela lugosi is thirsty

    New Houston cocktail bar blends Latin influences with Gothic vibes

    Brianna Griff
    May 30, 2025 | 9:41 am
    ​Botonica founder Alexis Mijares
    Photo by Angelique Cook-Cavazos
    Botonica founder Alexis Mijares is known for both the cocktail programs she has designed for Houston restaurants and her festive pop-ups: the Cursed Cauldron and Jingle Bell Bar.

    River Oaks welcomes a moody, Latin American cocktail bar with today’s official opening of Botonica. Located near the intersection of San Felipe Street and 610, the bar sits on the ground floor of SkyHouse River Oaks apartments at 2031 Westcreek Lane.

    \u200bBotonica founder Alexis Mijares
      

    Photo by Angelique Cook-Cavazos

    Botonica founder Alexis Mijares is known for both the cocktail programs she has designed for Houston restaurants and her festive pop-ups: the Cursed Cauldron and Jingle Bell Bar.

    Botonica founder and bartender Alexis Mijares is known for the cocktail programs she’s designed for Houston restaurants, as well as her festive pop-ups, the Cursed Cauldron and Jingle Bell Bar. The previously mobile pop-ups will have a home between Botonica’s walls.

    "Seeing how much people have loved and supported our holiday pop-ups (Cursed Cauldron and Jingle Bell Bar) was part of the fire behind the decision to bring Botonica to the community,” Mijares tells CultureMap. “They led me to the opportunity and ability to bring this permanent concept to life, and they now have a forever local home — a perfect setting as we work toward expanding them nationally!"

    Fans of the Cursed Cauldron’s gothic aesthetic will find similar details at Botonica, with its inky black walls, vintage fabrics, and carefully chosen decor pieces accentuated by lush plants. Mijares worked with her pop-up partner, Angelique Cook-Cavazos, to create the space.

    Botonica’s cocktail menu is as thoughtful as its design, divided into three distinct sections. The "House Menu" highlights seasonal creations made with Latin spirits and regional ingredients. La Huella Liquida (“The Liquid Footprint”) features more than 50 cocktails that trace Latin America’s global impact on drinking culture from the 17th century to the present day. El Camino de la Margarita is a study of the margarita’s evolution, from its debated origins to modern twists.

    “Drinks are how we tell our story,” Mijares said in a statement. “Botonica is our love letter to Latin America — through cocktails, culture, and connection. Everything we do is rooted in pride, intention, and Latin excellence.”

    Notable drinks include the Chamuyera, a decadent concoction of rum, coffee, banana, amaro, dulce de leche, and coconut. For a more fruit-forward option, there’s the Desert Dove, which combines Bolivian brandy with Ketel One, St. Germain, guava, grapefruit, lemon, and ginger beer. The menu also includes Latin wines, beers, and spirit-free options.

    "Houston is such a beautifully diverse city with over 3 million Latin residents, and growing, who are bringing various traditions and influences here,” Mijares says. “Curating a menu and space that celebrates the collection of cultures which make up the thriving Latin community was important to me because it’s reflective of my community and my team, who have Latin backgrounds spanning from Mexico and Central America, the Caribbean, and South America. Botonica celebrates what threads those cultures together but also highlights what makes them each unique, and the history that brings inspiration to our creations."

    That cultural reflection is also evident in the food menu. Patrons will discover small plates, such as caviar paired with chicharrones and masa blinis. Meanwhile, bacon-wrapped mini Sonoran hot dogs are topped with black beans, salsa verde, crema, and pico de gallo. Desserts include a Chocotaco made in-house and a spiced rum cake soaked in brown butter.

    Future plans include art installations from local Latin creatives, along with live performances of jazz, bossa nova, and burlesque. Botonica is open Tuesday through Thursday and on Sunday from 4 pm-12 am, Friday and Saturday from 4 pm-1 am, and closed on Monday.

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