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    Meet the Tastemakers

    Houston's 9 best neighborhood restaurants make us feel right at home

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 21, 2017 | 10:01 am

    Casual, affordable, accessible — neighborhood restaurants may not show up on most best-of lists, but they’re the restaurants that most people dine at every day. Whether it’s getting a pick me up after a bad day at work or a family dinner when sports practices run late, neighborhood restaurants are there for us whenever we need them.

    We asked our panel of industry experts to identify their favorite neighborhood restaurants by stipulating that places should be: relatively affordable, open at least six days per week, and serve both lunch and dinner. That they're all inside the loop suggests that our experts actually do eat at these restaurants that are close to the places they live and work.

    A couple of our finalists break these rules in one way or another, but all offer the welcoming atmosphere and everyday comfort that makes neighborhood restaurants such an important part of people’s lives. Which restaurant did our panelists select? Find out on April 18 at the Tastemakers Award party at Asia Society Texas. Tickets are on sale now.

    Aladdin Mediterranean Cuisine
    Located in the heart of Montrose, this Middle Eastern restaurant serves a diverse mix of braised meats, grilled kebabs, and enough vegetable options to make meatless Mondays appealing. The lamb shank will always be a signature, especially when wrapped in some freshly baked pita bread with a swipe of creamy hummus. Prices are affordable, which is another reason the dining room is frequently full. 912 Westheimer

    Giacomo's Cibo e Vino
    Chef-owner Lynette Hawkins’ casual Italian restaurant may not regularly appear in the media spotlight, but that’s only because there’s near-universal agreement about the restaurant’s overall excellence. Whether a diner is seeking a light lunch of small vegetable plates after an indulgent dinner or a multi-course meal built around the excellent pastas (both house made and imported), Giacomo’s offers a variety of consistently appealing choices. Giacomo’s well-priced list of Italian wines makes it so easy to spend a day lingering on the patio that we’re including it in this category even though it’s only open five days per week. 3215 Westheimer

    Good Dog Houston
    Houstonians may be obsessed with burgers, but Good Dog has spread the message that hot dogs can be great, too. Owners Amalia Pferd and Daniel Caballero have grown the business from a food truck to brick-and-mortar locations in The Heights and Montrose on the combination of Pferd’s creative condiments and Caballero’s front of house expertise. Going brick and mortar also allowed Pferd to expand the menu, which now includes non-hot dog sandwiches, salads, and what may be the best fish and chips in Houston. A well-chosen selection of craft beer, Texas wines, and the essential fizzy mint lemonade make the beverage choices are just as appealing as the food. 903 Studewood; 1312 W. Alabama

    Helen Greek Food & Wine
    Local and national acclaim has made Helen so popular that it can be hard to snag a reservation, but the restaurant that taught Houstonians to appreciate Greek wine, pork gyros, and the merits of Greek brunch fulfills the neighborhood restaurant criteria of being an essential destination for Rice Village residents. While the show-stopping dishes can get pricey, sitting at the bar to linger over a glass of whatever new vintage sommelier Evan Turner is excited about while snacking on a plate or two created by James Beard Rising Star Chef of the Year semifinalist William Wright still provides sufficient pleasure to battle the sometimes problematic parking. Soon, the team will learn whether Helen’s success translates to a second location by relaunching Arthur Ave as Helen in the Heights. 2429 Rice

    Ninfa's on Navigation
    Ninfa’s could probably remain popular if it served nothing but fajitas, enchiladas, and margaritas, but recent renovations have the iconic restaurant flying higher than ever. An extensive kitchen remodel means the tacos al carbon are, for the first time, actually cooked over wood, which gives the grilled meats an appealing whiff of smoke. Customer comfort has also been increased with a new dining room and a dedicated waiting area (no more standing awkwardly around the hostess stand!). 2704 Navigation

    Executive chef Alex Padilla has expanded the menu to include more seafood and vegetarian options, which makes the restaurant more useful than ever. While a frozen Ninfarita will always be a good way to cool down on a hot day, an expanded selection of tequila and mezcal has kept the restaurant current with the latest trends in spirits, too.

    Paulie's
    For almost 20 years, Paulie’s has been providing Montrose residents with classic Italian-American fare. With dishes that include a variety of house made pastas, salads, sandwiches (including the legendary shrimp BLT), and those signature iced shortbread cookies, Paulie’s menu offers big flavors and good value. Even those customers who only come in a few times will find they’re greeted by name. As a diner, the only downside to all that success is the restaurant can get so crowded during prime dinner hours that it can be hard to snag a table. 1834 Westheimer

    Southern Goods
    With its sprawling patio, well-priced cocktails, and creative menu, Southern Goods offers a lot of value to Heights residents. Although it doesn’t serve lunch, the restaurant does offer brunch and a late night menu on the weekends that would, at least theoretically, allow a diner to eat multiple meals there on the same day. The menu changes regularly, but chef-owner Lyle Bento can be counted on to feature seasonally-appropriate, locally-sourced ingredients, backed up by a smoked item or two prepared by sous chef Patrick Feges. 632 W 19th

    State of Grace
    In a way, it’s a shame the crowd that flooded the restaurant when it first opened have moved on, because this River Oaks restaurant is better than ever. Like Helen, State of Grace offers the ability to have either a blow-out, high-priced dinner or a more casual weeknight bite, which suits the River Oaks crowd that uses it as a neighborhood gathering place. Executive chef Bobby Matos regularly adds new dishes to the menu based on the seasonal availability of local proteins and produce. Those dishes are served in one of Houston’s most attractive dining rooms by a staff that’s led by general manager Matt Crawford, who recently earned the prestigious Advanced Sommelier certification. 3258 Westheimer

    Tiny Boxwoods
    Whether at the River Oaks original or Tinys No. 5 in West University (and coming soon to Austin), these two restaurants demonstrate the merits of well-prepared classic bistro fare. Diners can come by for a croissant and coffee at breakfast, a salad or burger for lunch, or wood-roasted mussels at dinner and know that each visit will be consistent. Last year’s expansion, which provided a dedicated outlet for the signature chocolate chip cookies, which demonstrate the perfect balance of a crispy edge, soft middle, and just the right level of salt, as well as baked goods, ice cream, and beverages, only further enhances the brand. 3614 W Alabama; 3636 Rice

    Tiny Boxwood's.

    News_Tiny Boxwoods, interior
      
    Photo by Julie Soefer/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
    Tiny Boxwood's.
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 459 and 460

    Meet the men behind Houston's most under-the-radar Italian restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Apr 18, 2025 | 5:00 pm
    Fernando Rios Mike Sammons Mimo
    Courtesy of Mimo
    Chef Fernando Rios and sommelier Mike Sammons are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” sommelier Mike Sammons and chef Fernando Rios join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Mimo, their Italian restaurant in the East End. The duo, whose history goes back to when they worked together at iconic Houston fine dining restaurant Da Marco, opened Mimo in 2023.



    The conversation begins with Rios explaining the progression of a career that took him from Backstreet Cafe to Da Marco to Weights + Measures, where he worked as the chef de cuisine while Sammons was a partner who oversaw the beverage program. Since they both live in the East End, they saw an opportunity to team up by claiming the former Kanomwan space on Telephone Rd.

    They discuss several aspects of the restaurant’s business, including Rios’ changes to the menu, the evolution of Mimo’s wine list, and how its been received by residents of the East End. A digression about Da Marco prompts Sandler to ask about its chef-owner Marco Wiles, who generally stays out of the media spotlight. Sammons shares that Wiles is the only chef or restaurateur who makes him nervous when he dines at Mimo.

    “He’s really not forgiving about things. This is very consistent with the Italian way of looking at things — there’s a right way to do things and that’s it. If it isn’t done that way, it’s wrong. A lot of my other mentors and friends can be more forgiving, but the standards Marco has kept for years has motivated me,” Sammons says.

    “He’s still the same way,” Rios adds. “That was insane to me. I thought, you get older, you’d be more relaxed, but the way he looks at you makes you nervous. Working in the kitchen, there was times he’d throw all my stuff away and say ‘start over.’”

    Was he right, Sandler asks.

    “Absolutely, yes. He was right all the time. I just think he was one of the best to do it,” Rios affirms.

    Listen to the full interview to hear both men discuss the one thing they’re most proud of about Mimo. They also discuss their plans for the future.



    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Houston’s finalists in this year’s James Beard Awards, the owners of Jūn adding a daytime concept called Third Place, and Aaron Bludorn promoting chef Allie Pena to be Bludorn’s new executive chef.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Sandler and Clarkson visit Camaraderie, chef Shawn Gawle’s new restaurant in the Heights. They share their thoughts on the restaurant’s prix fixe menu, as well as its decor and beverage offerings.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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