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South of France Meets Italy

A sumptuous affair: "Ooh la la" and "la bella vita" converge at Hotel Granduca dinner

Davon D.E. Hatchett
Davon D.E. Hatchett
Mar 2, 2013 | 1:00 pm

Ristorante Cavour at Hotel Granduca recently served as the lush and intimate setting for a fortunate dinner crowd of about two dozen, at an exclusive culinary experience orchestrated by celebrated Michelin-star French chef Xavier Mathieu and Ristorante Cavour Italian Master Chef Renato De Pirro.

The luxurious five-course meal was indeed a taste of "la bella vita," or "the beautiful life," as the two gastronomical masterminds conspired to delight both the eyes and the appetite. To complement the phenomenal menu, wines provided by premier importer Maisons Marques & Domaines were matched to perfection and poured generously with every course.

The first course was less like an appetizer and more like a mélange of amuse-bouches instead, and each bite definitely delighted the palate. The course consisted of marinated salmon with tarragon oil, foie gras with quince and orange blossom, poached quail egg and vegetables in anchoïade and cumin and cucumber gazpacho.

The luxurious five-course meal was indeed a taste of "la bella vita," as the two gastronomical masterminds conspired to delight both the eyes and the appetite .

The surprise of the bunch was the gazpacho, which was truly elevated by the addition of the cumin. It paired with the Roederer Estate sparkling wine which, with its crisp flavors, was the consummate foil to each of the very different taste sensations presented during the course.

Mushroom risotto with black truffles, paired with 2009 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris, made up the second course, followed by a braised beef cheek and oxtail with beet mustard and honey carrots — one of the dazzling highlights of the meal.

The supple, flavorful shreds of beef were enveloped in a savory sauce which perfectly complemented the sweet carrots. Even more palate pleasing was the 2009 Delas Châteauneuf-du-Pape served with it. With a single sip one can fully understand what all of the storied Châteauneuf fuss is about.

The fourth course, as any Francophile worth his or her salt might expect, was a cheese course consisting of Banon, a French goat milk cheese, and a quintessential Italian Parmesan cheese. The chocolaty, intense cherry-berry richness of the 2004 Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Ramos Pinto port served alongside the cheese course was particularly well-played against the crumbly, salty parmesan.

Knowing that you can't go wrong with Nutella, the grand finale was a profiterole filled with the creamy chocolate-hazelnut spread, served with a lavender white chocolate and lemon sorbet.

The night wasn't solely about deliciousness though: A portion of the proceeds was donated by the Consulate of France to the Texan French Alliance for the Arts, an organization dedicated to the promotion of cultural exchanges between France and Texas.

This culinary collaborative effort was an exquisitely successful meeting of chef minds that was only elevated by perfect wine pairings. As Masisons Marques & Domaines representative Dominique Moran said, "It is not difficult to fall in love with great wines."

The third course included beef cheeks and oxtails with honeyed carrots.

Davon, Granduca dinner, South of France Meets Italy, March 2013, Beef cheeks and oxtail
Photo by Davon Hatchett
The third course included beef cheeks and oxtails with honeyed carrots.
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Meet the men behind River Oaks' new destination for bowls and broth

CultureMap Staff
Dec 19, 2025 | 4:40 pm
Honest Mary's restaurant exterior
Photo by Becca Wright
Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Honest Mary’s founder Nelson Monteith and COO Andrew Wiseman joined CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss the Austin-based restaurant that just opened its first Houston location in the River Oaks Shopping Center (2047-A West Gray St).



Monteith shares that he started the restaurant in 2017 in order to fulfill his vision of a restaurant which could serve food that’s fast, fresh, and affordable. A trained chef who operated pioneering Austin restaurant Contigo, Wiseman joined the group to bring both culinary expertise and operational acumen to the grouping company.

Part of what sets Honest Mary’s apart is that diners can add cooked vegetables to the rice and proteins at the heart of every bowl. The “Market Sides” section includes an array of roasted vegetables — including sweet potatoes, cauliflower, broccoli, beets, and Brussels sprouts — as well as black beans, maple-glazed carrots, and green lentils. Bowls can be further enhanced with toppings such as Texas pecans, crispy chickpeas, goat cheese, avocado, and apples as well as sauces such as creamy poblano, cashew lime crema, sesame vinaigrette, spicy peanut, chimichurri and apple cider vinaigrette

Monteith explains that looking at the ingredients on display usually inspires him when he’s deciding what to eat at Honest Mary’s.

“I will almost always look at the line and see what looks fresh and good,” Monteith says. “Today, I got the salted kale with white rice. Then, I got garlic-pepper steak. I added on lentils — they’re my go-to in the winter. They blend everything together, and I love it Then Brussels sprouts looked green. I got some jalapenos. Avocados, cause that’s healthy. Then I got the chimichurri sauce.”

Honest Mary’s is also known for its hearty brothers, a classic chicken and a seaweed and mushroom. Sandler raves about the chicken broth to Wiseheart, who shares how it’s made.

“We spent six or seven months testing recipes and drinking it ourselves to see if it’s a good idea,” Wiseman says. “I talk about it as a great complement to the menu. It’s healthy. It’s really simple. Most of the kitchens I came up with were rooted in French cuisine. This is just chicken stock with salt in it.”

Listen to the full episode to hear more about Honest Mary’s plans for additional locations in Houston and Dallas. Then Monteith asks a Sandler a few questions about the Houston dining scene.



In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Home Slice Pizza opening a new location in the Heights; the closures of Brett’s BBQ Shop in Katy and Killen’s Barbecue in The Woodlands; and Esquire including ChòpnBlok on its list of America’s best new restaurants.

In the restaurant of the week segment, the two friends discuss their recent meal at Hypsi, the Italian restaurant in the newly-opened Hotel Daphne. Listen to the episode to hear their favorite dishes and other thoughts on the meal.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.



Honest Mary's restaurant exterior

Photo by Becca Wright

Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

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