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    TxMo Best New Restaurants

    Houston dominates Texas Monthly critic's list of state's best new restaurants

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 19, 2019 | 8:15 am

    Texas Monthly food editor Pat Sharpe has weighed in with her take on the best new restaurants to open in the state last year. Titled "Where to Eat Now," the annual list recognizes restaurants that opened across the Lone Star State between December 1, 2017 and December 1, 2018.

    "Among an outstandingly diverse group, you’ll find a sausage specialist, a masa maniac, and a fermenting fanatic. The venues range from an industrial-chic emporium with a stunning skyline view to a teeny converted gas station bedecked with bundles of dried herbs," Sharpe writes. "The chefs include both a youthful newcomer hoping to make a splash and a James Beard Award winner who is known nationwide. If you can’t find something that strikes your fancy, well, you just aren’t hungry."

    Houston dominates the list for the second year in a row, earning four spots on Sharpe's list. Chris Shepherd takes number one for his 2018 trio of UB Preserv, One Fifth Mediterranean, and Georgia James. Sharpe wonders whether the chef should find a permanent home for One Fifth Mediterranean or simply ditch the plan to shutter the concept on July 31. "When you’ve just created one of the best restaurants of your career, it would be crazy to mess with success," she writes.

    Other Houston restaurants on the list include Nancy's Hustle in third place, Poitín in sixth, and Indigo in eighth. Sharpe praises Indigo chef Jonny Rhodes presentations on the social and political issues that shaped his dishes. "Some of Rhodes’s spiels are literal, others are lyrical. All are insightful," she writes. Indianola, Agricole Hospitality's eclectic modern diner, lands Houston's only spot on the honorable mentions list.

    Dallas restaurants take three spots, starting with third place going to Macellaio, Lucia chef David Uygur's charcuterie-focused spot. Petra and the Beast, chef Misti Norris' ode to "foraging, fermenting, and whole-animal cookery" comes in seventh, with modern Mexican seafood restaurant Tulum in tenth. The Charles, Billy Can Can, and Fachini all earn honorable mentions. Fort Worth's only entry is an honorable mention for Four Sisters, which Sharpe describes as a "contemporary Vietnamese cafe."

    Austin's masa-obsessed restaurant Suerte ranks second, with Italian restaurant Intero holding down fifth place for the capital city. Loro and Sour Duck Market earn honorable mentions.

    Clementine, the San Antonio restaurant where chefs John and Elise Russ let their locally-sourced ingredients speak for themselves, takes ninth place to earn the Alamo City's only spot on the list. Meadow and Playland appear among the honorable mentions, as does Fredericksburg's Emma + Ollie.

    Overall, Sharpe's picks seem to be very much on trend. Shepherd is the Beard Award winner she references in her intro, and Macellaio has ties to one of Dallas' most-acclaimed restaurants. Suerte has been recognized by publications such as Eater and Bon Appetit, while both Nancy's Hustle and Petra and the Beast made Esquire's list of America's best new restaurants. Even 13-seat Indigo has already earned near universal praise locally; Sharpe's including it on her list feels like the next step towards the national spotlight for the tasting menu restaurant.

    David Uygur's Macellaio ranks fourth of Sharpe's list.

    David Uygur at Meat Fight 2015
      
    Photo by Jeff Amador
    David Uygur's Macellaio ranks fourth of Sharpe's list.
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    he finished the job

    Houston chef Tristen Epps dishes on his Top Chef victory — and what's next

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 13, 2025 | 9:05 am
    Top Chef Tristen Epps
    Photo by David Moir/Bravo
    Kristen Kish, Tristen Epps, Gail Simmons, and Tom Colicchio.

    Houston has played a leading role in America’s culinary scene, but the city has never been home to a Top Chef winner — until last night. In the final episode of season 22, chef Tristen Epps earned the title and a $250,000 cash prize.

    Epps secured his victory by remaining true to the Afro-Caribbean cuisine that helped him secured an impressive four Elimination Challenge wins and $35,000 in additional prize money from two Quickfire wins and as a member of the team that won the show’s signature Restaurant Wars challenge. His four-course menu took a panel of celebrity judges on a journey that also referenced the finale location of Milan, Italy.

    In particular, Epps wowed the panel with his second course — Chicken “Durango” with injera shrimp toast and shellfish jus — that referenced both the Ethiopian chicken stew doro wat and the Italian dish pollo durango, a sly nod to the history of imperialism between the two countries. He finished his savory offerings with Oxtail Milanese Crepinette with Carolina Gold rice grits, curry butter, and bone marrow gremolata, which earned praised from the panel.

    “Historically, we’ve been underserved oxtail,” Top Chef alum and James Beard Award winner Gregory Gourdet said during the episode. “Tristen took the time to pull it, create that beautiful, huge, maybe too big, portion of oxtail. And cover it with that gremolata. He did not forget the bone marrow. That’s very, very smart.”

    Throughout Top Chef’s run, Epps has been holding a series of pop-ups devoted to everything from hot dogs to steakhouses. Now, he can turn his attention to Buboy, a tasting menu concept that will celebrate the Afro-Caribbean cuisine he championed throughout his time on the show.

    CultureMap caught up with Epps on Friday morning for a brief chat about his victory and what’s next.

    CultureMap: What do you remember from the day you cooked that final dinner?
    Tristen Epps: It was an extreme amount of focus. A lot of writing in my notebook. I didn’t want to laugh. I didn’t want to cry or do anything except finish the job, regardless of whatever the outcome would have been. I remember wanting to call my mom. I really wanted to talk things out so I could calm myself down and stay within my focus. Once I got into cooking, I felt so much at ease. It’s my happy place. It’s my serenity.

    CM: How did you feel when you saw Gregory Gourdet on the panel? Did you feel like you had an advocate in the room?
    TE: I’ve cooked with gregory before, a long time ago. It was really fun. I loved what he was doing.

    I felt like I had kind of an advocate. I was worried my food wold be too spicy or too overpowering [for the European chefs]. Seeing Gregory was really good, especially with what I was doing.

    CM: Other chefs, including Gregory Gourdet and Houston chef Dawn Burrell, have done well on the show with Afro-Caribbean cuisine but they didn’t win. How important was it to you to finish the job and use those flavors to win the title?
    TE: To me that was super important. There’s adventurous people who make phenomenal food. They’ll go once because it’s interesting, bu they’re usually skeptical. When you don’t nail it, they say, that’s why I go to the regular places that are familiar.

    Finishing the job was really important to me. People have come up short on this. I wanted to get this right for everyone who’s made that step forward and created the ladder.

    CM: What have your last 12 hours been like since the episode aired? Have any celebrities reached out to you?
    TE: A lot of calls, a lot of good luck. A lot of everything. It’s been amazing.

    A lot of past Top Chef winners reached out to me, giving me a lot of support and telling me what they did after they won.

    [ESPN football commentator] Mina Kimes did, which was really cool.

    CM: What are your plans for the prize money?
    TE: It’s going to go to Buboy. Now that the cat’s out of the bag, it can go a little faster.

    CM: You’ve been holding a series of pop-ups that range from tasting menus to hot dogs? What’s next?
    TE: Part of getting the restaurant open has been introducing myself to all of Houston. These pop-ups represent my interests and my fun. They’re the things that Buboy is going to represent. It can be fun, it can be a conversation, it can be educational, it can push the limits of cuisines we know. It’s an expression of culture in whatever way I see fit that day.

    The hot dog concept will probably be a separate venture, but who’s to say there’s not a hot dog at the end of that meal?

    Top Chef Tristen Epps
      

    Photo by David Moir/Bravo

    Kristen Kish, Tristen Epps, Gail Simmons, and Tom Colicchio.

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