90 minutes to bliss

Round Top charms visitors with can't-miss shopping, rustic-chic hotels, and quaint holiday escapes

Photo by Alex Montoya

A smear of orange and yellow spreads across a gray-blue evening sky as the sun begins its slow descent over Round Top. Surveying the picture-perfect display over a small pond and his expansive yard, a local utters what’s become a familiar chorus around these parts.

“Yeah, Round Top is the new Jackson Hole.”

His declaration to us isn’t far off. But how did a quaint Texas town 90 minutes from Houston — with an official population that averages between 93 and 99 — become analogous to the celebrity-packed city in Wyoming?

Credit — or blame (if you’re a Round Top native) — the wildly popular Round Top Antiques Show, which draws hundreds of thousands from across the globe twice a year and is known in shopping circles as one of the top antique events around.

While generations of locals in usually sleepy Round Top have built their livelihoods around the shows, smart Texans have started snatching up property so quickly that million-dollar bidding wars are now common. What for decades was a road trip for charming old trinkets and darn-good pie is now a Texas luxury hub — aside from an antiquing paradise.

But when the crowds depart, the old German town gets back to its Lone Star State roots of rustic charm, classic attractions, and colorful characters, perfect for a day trip or weekend stay. New retail, sundry shops, restaurants, (breakfast can still be a dicey affair), and a microbrewery make Round Top a year-long choice for those needing an escape from traffic, high-rises, and clamor.

Houstonians are sure to recognize some familiar faces who have set up shop, from hip hotels and restaurants to a cheery, donkey-themed art house. (Houston travel tip: Any playlist from Bayou City native Lyle Lovett makes for a perfect Houston-to-Round Top soundtrack.)

Now, Round Top is welcoming visitors — and shoppers, of course — for Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and lazy weekends. Those escaping Houston’s freeze this week can catch “A Classic Round Top Christmas” at Round Top’s Town Square (100 Main St.). From 11 am to 1 pm on Friday, December 23, families can gather at the town square gazebo for photos with the Grinch and some favorite characters.

Stay

Thanks to the swarms of antiques show visitors, Round Top has no shortage of lodging, including charming bed and breakfasts, boutique hotels, cabins and cottages, and even sporting clubs and ranches such as the sprawling Big Easy Ranch. Those in search of hotels will find some notable Houstonians are ready to host, including Armando and Cinda Palacios (Hotel Lulu) and Pete Bell (his Cotton Pearl Motel, set to open January 1, 2023 and accepting bookings now, is sure to be a hit with its pool and courtyard).

Much of the lodging here is a study in preservation and adaptive reuse, with many home to buildings dating back to the late 1800s and Round Top’s founding. The Round Top Inn is literally a piece of Texas history, its compound home to the only surviving building that harks back to Texas’ cigar-making days.

Euro-inspired and striking, the white, circular hot tub and square pool at The Frenchie have become Insta-famous, with hundreds posting pics while lounging in the water and sipping wine. Three individual houses, one dating back to the 1890s, make up the Round Top Motel, conveniently situated in downtown just across from Rummel Square.

Expect rustic chic in many hotels, such as The Vintage Round Top, which marries modern sensibilities with classic vintage flair (its Boho cottage is internationally acclaimed and has landed on many best-of lists). It’s quite hard to miss the Red Antler Bungalows while entering the town, the modern complex of black bungalows (which hark to Scandinavian rustic design) accented by unmistakable, signature red-antlered mounts constantly spur a “what is that?” from travelers.

For a little Houston in Round Top, CultureMap visited the luxe Hotel Lulu, namely to pay tribute to Houston restaurateur/host extraordinaire Armando Palacios and his wife Cinda. Legendary in Houston for his eponymous see-and-be-seen eatery in River Oaks (where often, anything goes), Palacios bet on Round Top decades ago. A new project by the Palacios Murphy Hospitality Group, Hotel Lulu (the name a nod to his impossibly charming wife’s family nickname) follows the Round Top trend of bungalows/casitas on a compound, with a central courtyard and pool.

Nestled just outside the bustling Henkel Square, Hotel Lulu has become a go-to for urbane visitors who stay for the scenic vistas (we fell in love with the neighboring barn characters, namely a charming donkey, bull, and some alpacas), and Lulu’s, the red-hot restaurant helmed by executive chef Jose Monterrosa, the Italian-focused sister restaurant to the Houston locale. (Reflecting the tony crowd that favorites Armando’s, the scene at Hotel Lulu and Lulu’s is cosmopolitan, with patrons decked out in vacation chic.)

Pasta dishes at Lulu’s are wildly popular, especially the carbonara, a perfectly cooked fried egg with a healthy, orange yolk centering the dish. Caviar is a good starter, and the bread service is so divine it could potentially be a meal paired with fresh butter and a full-bodied red wine. Grilled branzino and a beefy tenderloin make excellent choices for proteins, while tiramisu and gelato are sweet finishes.

Brunch features many lunch and dinner items; we loved the country-table-themed Uova in Purgatoria, where a farm-fresh fried egg sits in a bed of delicious red sugo sauce. Carnivores can power up with the steak and eggs, adorned with a chimichurri sauce; all go well with bloody marys, mimosas, and fresh bellinis. We ended brunch with an irresistible combo of gelato and bombolini, Italian doughnuts with crème anglaise.

Lulu’s downstairs dining room, chiseled in central Texas rock, is also worth a peek, as it's a favorite for private parties.

For a refined sip, the picturesque ll Cuculo bar is a must-visit for pre or post-dinner cocktails, after a day out, or a romantic date night. The main bar is striking with its deep wood and blue accents, while a curtained seating area — vibrant and velvet-adorned — sports plush seating with swoon-worthy upholstery. In a city full of Instagrammable scenes, this elegant spot is photo-shoot ready.

Hotel visitors can plan for family stays in the two-bedroom Grandiosa suite that offers a large outdoor deck overlooking the garden. Grande suites feature a king bed and a “napping” smaller bed, while each Classica suite is centered by a tall, canopied bed that’s nearly impossible to leave. Couples will love the romantic Amanti suite, overlooking the garden, with its soaking tub and porch.

While a massage, yoga, and dip in the pool is always recommended, we loved swaying away on the porch swing. Staff here (managed by the welcoming manager Cara) craft house-made cocktails and serve up bottles of wine perfect for porch sipping and taking in the lush trees, nearby lake, and of course, the friendly donkey and alpacas next door. So rich is the country charm, we lost track of valuable shopping time.

Shop

But shop we must, and thankfully Henkel Square Market (201 N. Live Oak) is seconds away. The bustling square, with greens and a fountain, is a go-to center to find jewelry, clothing, and home decor. One could spend hours at Southern Beasts, where the clever Mary Lou Marks (who chats up visitors and recognizes shoppers from months and years prior) crafts whimsical animals out of vivid upholstery. We scooped up vintage headbands and bracelets and lusted over the vintage cowboy hats and gear and one-of-a-kind paintings. Upstairs, the clever folks at Starr’z hunt all over for retro mid-century modern furnishings jewelry, handbags, decorative pieces.

Next door is the exotic Sapana Dreams, (translated to “dream” in Nepali), where owner Jolie Helms curates and imports outerwear, vests, quilts, totes, and more from India and Nepal — all while empowering the impoverished crafters in those countries. A familiar Houston retail name, Helms is passionate about educating shoppers about the plight of those who create the goods for her first solo store — all while customers leave with some serious statement pieces.

A quick jaunt leads to our favorite Round Top art store, Humble Donkey Studio, a crafty playground founded by John Lowery, a former Houston marketing CEO who has turned his passion for Texan and animal-themed art into a two-story mecca of charm. Lowery celebrates in-store sales of his large paintings (in demand across the country) with wine, cowbell ringing, and the declaration that “a donkey got its wings.” We grabbed hats, small works, and even a Texas-themed doormat from the exclusive Lower40 collection.

Fashionistas should stop by stylish Houstonian/Round Top resident Marla Hurley’s chic boutique Modernmarla, where serious shoppers can grab luxe-label shoes, accessories, clothes, and more. (Be sure to score a cheeky “Kiss My Fancy Texas A*s” T-shirt for a Lone Star look that’s totally extra.)

Explore

Near ModernMarla, The Ellis Motel, the brainchild of former Houstonian Lee Ellis of Cherry Pie Hospitality, offers a little rock star Round Top vibe. Ellis calls his bar/hangout a “lounge and emporium,” one replete with a buffalo head and motorcycles. True to his culinary roots, Ellis owns the next-door Round Top Smokehouse, which quickly sells out of brisket, ribs, sausage, and more smoked fare.

A quick stroll to Royers Pie Haven is rewarded with some of the best pie in the state (note: try the Texas Trash pie). More bites can be found at Mandito’s (“little Armandos”) a Palacios-owned Tex-Mex cantina, and the fast-casual Popi Burger, which sits in the original Round Top General Store building and serves burgers, brews, coffee, salad, and breakfast. Beers on the deck are a must at Round Top Brewing, which also offers live music and chef-driven bites.

Last-minute holiday gifts and just-for-me items can be found at year-round shopping destinations such as Round Top Ranch Antiques and Round Top Vintage Market. Grab trinkets at Second Market and Company, Mallory et Cie, or Schmidt Jewelry & Gifts.

Take a stroll in the charming town square, where holiday music is piped through nightly and holiday ornamentation decks the halls. For some added holiday vibes, pay a visit to the world's smallest Catholic church.

Ringing in the new year? Indulge at wineries such as Busted Oak Cellars, Blissful Folly Farms, and Blue Mule Winery for a vino-fueled start to 2023.

Photo by Alex Montoya

Round Top town square makes for a fun stroll.

bayou views galore

Inside Houston’s art-filled, staycation spot with a rooftop pool and posh spa

Courtesy of Thompson Hotel Houston

Lucinda Loya designed the one-acre seventh floor pool deck.

In the nearly two years since making its Houston debut, the towering Thompson Hotel has cemented itself as the go-to staycation spot for the glitzy glass tower crowd. The 36-story building — complete with helipad — along Allen Parkway is perfectly positioned to accommodate a widely-varying array of tastes and sensibilities.

Thompson Hotels fly under the Hyatt banner, with this particular project being owned and developed by DC Partners, interiors directed by Abel Design, with the exception of the pool deck space, which has been designed by Lucinda Loya.

The hotel itself occupies floors 1-15, with owner-occupied luxury condominiums settled over top. With fully separate entrances, it’s easy to forget that one or the other exists, a move that was surely intentional.

An art gallery on Allen Parkway

It doesn’t take long for guests to realize that the Thompson is decidedly as much of an art gallery as it is a hotel — a trend that has been picking up speed over the years. The hotel's art collection was curated by Claudia Contreras in collaboration with the development and ownership team at DC Partners.

Upon arrival, hotel guests are greeted at the valet stand by a striking display of seven bronze sculptures — Las 7 Cabezas, by renowned Mexican sculptor Javier Marín — that serve as a sort of amuse-bouche to the proverbial feast for the eyes that awaits ahead. Marín’s work, celebrated for its exploration of the human form, identity, and transformation, masterfully blends classical techniques with contemporary expression.

Stepping inside, guests encounter another mesmerizing installation — Ichwan Noor’s 1953 Beetle Sphere. This surreal sculptural masterpiece transforms a classic Volkswagen Beetle into a perfectly-compressed sphere, merging automotive engineering with conceptual art.

The extensive collection also includes a variety of mediums and styles from both emerging and renowned artists. Highlights include John Zinsser's surrealist enamel and oil on canvas, displayed near the resident elevators on the fifth floor, and Adam Fuss’s unique silver gelatin print photogram. Works from international talents, like Francois Fressinier's oil and mixed media works from France and Bjorn Sjogren’s paintings on paper from Sweden, bring diverse perspectives to the space.

Peppered throughout the property, guests will find curated selections like The Wall, a rare and powerful exhibition of 17 original limited-edition lithographs by Alexander Calder, Joan Miró, and Picasso — a stunning display of modern masters that sets an extraordinary artistic tone. Also, be sure to keep an eye out for pieces by Dana Piazza, Bogdan Mihai, Bjorn Sjogren, Jamali, Arno Bruse, Yoel Benharrouche, Alessandra Cola, and Celine Chouvenc.

Distinctive indoor-outdoor spaces

After their initial arrival, guests are whisked away to the lobby on the seventh floor, which operates as the de facto social hub of the hotel. Intricate tile murals underfoot paired with soaring ceilings and sweeping views lend a sense of contemporary modernity to a hotel whose brand identity typically lies strongly within the stylistic boundaries of the midcentury aesthetic.

The seventh floor is home to the lobby, library, and lounge spaces at one end, mirrored by the hotel’s indoor/outdoor elevated casual fare restaurant and bar Sol 7 and the impressive one-acre rooftop terrace and pool deck. It’s worth noting that it is this author’s opinion that the nighttime view of downtown from the pool deck is superior to all others. Aided by lush palms and the soothing sounds of water flowing through the infinity pool, the sparkle of glistening city lights is decidedly transformative.

“The pool deck is one of the biggest in Houston. It’s an acre in size,” explains Thompson Houston’s director of sales and marketing Lisa Hudson. “We have the infinity pool overlooking downtown, which is amazing. Then there is a 2,500-square-foot event space on the Sol 7 green that’s for parties or just to enjoy. It’s a hot spot, especially during the summer months in Houston.”

Unlike the rest of the hotel, the pool deck was designed by interior designer Lucinda Loya, who went as far as to design custom tile for the pool’s interior. The playful pattern seems innocent enough at first glance, but eagle-eyed guests are in for a cheeky surprise. The furniture — all from award-winning interiors powerhouse BeDesign in Montrose — is all from luxury Italian yacht furniture manufacturer Paola Lenti, save for the private cabanas, which are Gandia Blasco.

Loya’s use of various textures and wovens in shades of bright citrus lend a refreshing poolside respite from what is essentially a sea of black and white. Her use of color injects a vibrancy that harkens to the Thompson brand’s midcentury identity, which is not always fully defined throughout the property.

“Great hospitality design should transport you, and I wanted the Thompson pool to feel like its own escape in the heart of Houston — warm, sophisticated, with a little surprise,” Loya shares with CultureMap. “For the custom printed porcelain pool interior, I created a 1950s pin-up-inspired design as a playful nod to the hotel’s midcentury roots. It’s an unexpected detail. It gives the pool its own personality and makes the experience feel completely unique.”

The somewhat seamless indoor/outdoor relationship between Sol 7 and the pool deck lends an element of resort-style charm that has a way of disarming guests of any reclusive tendencies. Conversations flow freely between tables and lounge areas as snacks and libations stretch on into dinner service with new friends. The combination of tropical flora and fauna, downtown views, seventh floor breezes, and comfortable surroundings make for an unmatched experience along the bayou.

Amenities galore

After a long day at the pool, unwind in one of the 172 guest rooms, 34 of which are suites. Guests may choose between downtown views and the treetops, trails, and monuments across the street at Buffalo Bayou Park — one hotel, two completely different vibes. The guest rooms at The Thompson are where the midcentury aesthetic finally comes to life. The furniture and surrounding surfaces beam in warm wooden tones, richly-textured upholstery, green-stamped leathers, quirky lighting, and smoky glass and metallic features. Not to mention the unmistakable beauty of a Thompson Hotel wooden room key.

“We have the views of downtown and are literally across the street from Buffalo Bayou Park, which is 160 acres,” says Hudson. “What’s so nice is that from all of our guest rooms and suites, you can see how we’re paying homage to the outdoors by having a lot of earthy tones, green hues, wood paneling, and a very mid-century flair.”

The bathrooms are generously proportioned and offer a separate vanity area, complete with seating and illuminated mirrors. This rare guest room feature is one that is most appreciated by those who prefer not to be relegated to sitting crisscross-applesauce on the ground, nearest to the full-length mirror that is invariably situated near the least flattering lighting in the room.

Full-size bath products are by Bowmakers, while towels are from Concier. Guest robes are a playful take on the quintessential hooded sweatshirt — full length, generously sized, and distinctively made of sweatshirt material. So if soft, super-plush is the ideal, this robe is its fun, sporty cousin.

Rooms come equipped with travel steamers, but an iron and ironing board can be requested from housekeeping. Additionally, each room offers the latest edition of Texas Monthly for guests to enjoy.

Each floor includes a “hydration station,” offering free-flowing flat and sparkling water, plus ice. Stations also include the monthly events calendar to keep guests informed of hotel offerings like “floating yoga” and happy hour sessions. The gym at The Thompson is quite impressive, but if something extra-specialized is required, guests have full access to EōS gym just across the parking lot.

Relax at the spa

If poolside social activities and dates with the gym don’t fit the criteria, perhaps the spa will do the trick. The Thompson Spa offers an extensive menu of services as well as the option to enjoy some reflective quiet time in the grounding room. Floor-to-ceiling windows face the park, allowing guests to feel at one with nature, far removed from the sounds of the city streets. Here, the robes are very plush and individual lounge chairs are outfitted with a fluffy pillow and blanket.

The spa offers complimentary refreshments before and after services. Sip on custom blended hot teas like white-peach and champagne and berries from J’enwey Tea Co — or perhaps try the proprietary Thompson Signature Black tea. Iced tea and champagne are also on offer, as well as apothecary jars filled with healthy snacks. Spa shower and bath products are by Oslo-based Sprekenhus.

Whether it’s a combination of pool days and spa treatments, or workouts paired with a ride through the park trails on one of the hotel’s vintage-inspired Blue Jay electric bikes, The Thompson offers something for everyone. The staff are incredibly friendly, knowledgeable, and eager to help. If an offsite dinner or activity is required, a hotel car will take guests anywhere within a three mile radius. Not really sure what to do? Concierge Randal Meredith will be sure to sort it out.

With the summer season coming to a close and fireplace weather creeping closer and closer, it’ll be nice to have a sleek spot with incredible views to enjoy with a drink with friends or to curl up with a book. “Thompsons in general are known as a home away from home, and you can feel that residential vibe when coming into the library area and sitting in the coziness next to the bookshelves,” says Hudson.

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Thompson Hotel House; 1717 Allen Pkwy; Rates start at $389.

Courtesy of Thompson Hotel Houston

Lucinda Loya designed the one-acre seventh floor pool deck.

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