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    90 minutes to bliss

    Round Top charms visitors with can't-miss shopping, rustic-chic hotels, and quaint holiday escapes

    Steven Devadanam
    Dec 22, 2022 | 6:00 am
    Round Top Town Square holidays 2022
    Photo by Alex Montoya

    A smear of orange and yellow spreads across a gray-blue evening sky as the sun begins its slow descent over Round Top. Surveying the picture-perfect display over a small pond and his expansive yard, a local utters what’s become a familiar chorus around these parts.

    “Yeah, Round Top is the new Jackson Hole.”

    His declaration to us isn’t far off. But how did a quaint Texas town 90 minutes from Houston — with an official population that averages between 93 and 99 — become analogous to the celebrity-packed city in Wyoming?

    Credit — or blame (if you’re a Round Top native) — the wildly popular Round Top Antiques Show, which draws hundreds of thousands from across the globe twice a year and is known in shopping circles as one of the top antique events around.

    While generations of locals in usually sleepy Round Top have built their livelihoods around the shows, smart Texans have started snatching up property so quickly that million-dollar bidding wars are now common. What for decades was a road trip for charming old trinkets and darn-good pie is now a Texas luxury hub — aside from an antiquing paradise.

    But when the crowds depart, the old German town gets back to its Lone Star State roots of rustic charm, classic attractions, and colorful characters, perfect for a day trip or weekend stay. New retail, sundry shops, restaurants, (breakfast can still be a dicey affair), and a microbrewery make Round Top a year-long choice for those needing an escape from traffic, high-rises, and clamor.

    Houstonians are sure to recognize some familiar faces who have set up shop, from hip hotels and restaurants to a cheery, donkey-themed art house. (Houston travel tip: Any playlist from Bayou City native Lyle Lovett makes for a perfect Houston-to-Round Top soundtrack.)

    Now, Round Top is welcoming visitors — and shoppers, of course — for Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and lazy weekends. Those escaping Houston’s freeze this week can catch “A Classic Round Top Christmas” at Round Top’s Town Square (100 Main St.). From 11 am to 1 pm on Friday, December 23, families can gather at the town square gazebo for photos with the Grinch and some favorite characters.

    Stay

    Thanks to the swarms of antiques show visitors, Round Top has no shortage of lodging, including charming bed and breakfasts, boutique hotels, cabins and cottages, and even sporting clubs and ranches such as the sprawling Big Easy Ranch. Those in search of hotels will find some notable Houstonians are ready to host, including Armando and Cinda Palacios (Hotel Lulu) and Pete Bell (his Cotton Pearl Motel, set to open January 1, 2023 and accepting bookings now, is sure to be a hit with its pool and courtyard).

    Much of the lodging here is a study in preservation and adaptive reuse, with many home to buildings dating back to the late 1800s and Round Top’s founding. The Round Top Inn is literally a piece of Texas history, its compound home to the only surviving building that harks back to Texas’ cigar-making days.

    Euro-inspired and striking, the white, circular hot tub and square pool at The Frenchie have become Insta-famous, with hundreds posting pics while lounging in the water and sipping wine. Three individual houses, one dating back to the 1890s, make up the Round Top Motel, conveniently situated in downtown just across from Rummel Square.

    Expect rustic chic in many hotels, such as The Vintage Round Top, which marries modern sensibilities with classic vintage flair (its Boho cottage is internationally acclaimed and has landed on many best-of lists). It’s quite hard to miss the Red Antler Bungalows while entering the town, the modern complex of black bungalows (which hark to Scandinavian rustic design) accented by unmistakable, signature red-antlered mounts constantly spur a “what is that?” from travelers.

    For a little Houston in Round Top, CultureMap visited the luxe Hotel Lulu, namely to pay tribute to Houston restaurateur/host extraordinaire Armando Palacios and his wife Cinda. Legendary in Houston for his eponymous see-and-be-seen eatery in River Oaks (where often, anything goes), Palacios bet on Round Top decades ago. A new project by the Palacios Murphy Hospitality Group, Hotel Lulu (the name a nod to his impossibly charming wife’s family nickname) follows the Round Top trend of bungalows/casitas on a compound, with a central courtyard and pool.

    Nestled just outside the bustling Henkel Square, Hotel Lulu has become a go-to for urbane visitors who stay for the scenic vistas (we fell in love with the neighboring barn characters, namely a charming donkey, bull, and some alpacas), and Lulu’s, the red-hot restaurant helmed by executive chef Jose Monterrosa, the Italian-focused sister restaurant to the Houston locale. (Reflecting the tony crowd that favorites Armando’s, the scene at Hotel Lulu and Lulu’s is cosmopolitan, with patrons decked out in vacation chic.)

    Pasta dishes at Lulu’s are wildly popular, especially the carbonara, a perfectly cooked fried egg with a healthy, orange yolk centering the dish. Caviar is a good starter, and the bread service is so divine it could potentially be a meal paired with fresh butter and a full-bodied red wine. Grilled branzino and a beefy tenderloin make excellent choices for proteins, while tiramisu and gelato are sweet finishes.

    Brunch features many lunch and dinner items; we loved the country-table-themed Uova in Purgatoria, where a farm-fresh fried egg sits in a bed of delicious red sugo sauce. Carnivores can power up with the steak and eggs, adorned with a chimichurri sauce; all go well with bloody marys, mimosas, and fresh bellinis. We ended brunch with an irresistible combo of gelato and bombolini, Italian doughnuts with crème anglaise.

    Lulu’s downstairs dining room, chiseled in central Texas rock, is also worth a peek, as it's a favorite for private parties.

    For a refined sip, the picturesque ll Cuculo bar is a must-visit for pre or post-dinner cocktails, after a day out, or a romantic date night. The main bar is striking with its deep wood and blue accents, while a curtained seating area — vibrant and velvet-adorned — sports plush seating with swoon-worthy upholstery. In a city full of Instagrammable scenes, this elegant spot is photo-shoot ready.

    Hotel visitors can plan for family stays in the two-bedroom Grandiosa suite that offers a large outdoor deck overlooking the garden. Grande suites feature a king bed and a “napping” smaller bed, while each Classica suite is centered by a tall, canopied bed that’s nearly impossible to leave. Couples will love the romantic Amanti suite, overlooking the garden, with its soaking tub and porch.

    While a massage, yoga, and dip in the pool is always recommended, we loved swaying away on the porch swing. Staff here (managed by the welcoming manager Cara) craft house-made cocktails and serve up bottles of wine perfect for porch sipping and taking in the lush trees, nearby lake, and of course, the friendly donkey and alpacas next door. So rich is the country charm, we lost track of valuable shopping time.

    Shop

    But shop we must, and thankfully Henkel Square Market (201 N. Live Oak) is seconds away. The bustling square, with greens and a fountain, is a go-to center to find jewelry, clothing, and home decor. One could spend hours at Southern Beasts, where the clever Mary Lou Marks (who chats up visitors and recognizes shoppers from months and years prior) crafts whimsical animals out of vivid upholstery. We scooped up vintage headbands and bracelets and lusted over the vintage cowboy hats and gear and one-of-a-kind paintings. Upstairs, the clever folks at Starr’z hunt all over for retro mid-century modern furnishings jewelry, handbags, decorative pieces.

    Next door is the exotic Sapana Dreams, (translated to “dream” in Nepali), where owner Jolie Helms curates and imports outerwear, vests, quilts, totes, and more from India and Nepal — all while empowering the impoverished crafters in those countries. A familiar Houston retail name, Helms is passionate about educating shoppers about the plight of those who create the goods for her first solo store — all while customers leave with some serious statement pieces.

    A quick jaunt leads to our favorite Round Top art store, Humble Donkey Studio, a crafty playground founded by John Lowery, a former Houston marketing CEO who has turned his passion for Texan and animal-themed art into a two-story mecca of charm. Lowery celebrates in-store sales of his large paintings (in demand across the country) with wine, cowbell ringing, and the declaration that “a donkey got its wings.” We grabbed hats, small works, and even a Texas-themed doormat from the exclusive Lower40 collection.

    Fashionistas should stop by stylish Houstonian/Round Top resident Marla Hurley’s chic boutique Modernmarla, where serious shoppers can grab luxe-label shoes, accessories, clothes, and more. (Be sure to score a cheeky “Kiss My Fancy Texas A*s” T-shirt for a Lone Star look that’s totally extra.)

    Explore

    Near ModernMarla, The Ellis Motel, the brainchild of former Houstonian Lee Ellis of Cherry Pie Hospitality, offers a little rock star Round Top vibe. Ellis calls his bar/hangout a “lounge and emporium,” one replete with a buffalo head and motorcycles. True to his culinary roots, Ellis owns the next-door Round Top Smokehouse, which quickly sells out of brisket, ribs, sausage, and more smoked fare.

    A quick stroll to Royers Pie Haven is rewarded with some of the best pie in the state (note: try the Texas Trash pie). More bites can be found at Mandito’s (“little Armandos”) a Palacios-owned Tex-Mex cantina, and the fast-casual Popi Burger, which sits in the original Round Top General Store building and serves burgers, brews, coffee, salad, and breakfast. Beers on the deck are a must at Round Top Brewing, which also offers live music and chef-driven bites.

    Last-minute holiday gifts and just-for-me items can be found at year-round shopping destinations such as Round Top Ranch Antiques and Round Top Vintage Market. Grab trinkets at Second Market and Company, Mallory et Cie, or Schmidt Jewelry & Gifts.

    Take a stroll in the charming town square, where holiday music is piped through nightly and holiday ornamentation decks the halls. For some added holiday vibes, pay a visit to the world's smallest Catholic church.

    Ringing in the new year? Indulge at wineries such as Busted Oak Cellars, Blissful Folly Farms, and Blue Mule Winery for a vino-fueled start to 2023.

    Round Top Town Square holidays 2022
    Photo by Alex Montoya

    Round Top town square makes for a fun stroll.

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    Notes from a chef

    Globe-trotting Houston chef reviews Noma's $1,500 Los Angeles pop-up

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 9, 2026 | 4:00 pm
    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles
    Courtesy of David Skinner
    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

    [Editor’s note: When David Skinner, chef and owner of Kemah’s celebrated eculent and Ishtia restaurants, offered to share his experience eating at one of the world’s best restaurants, we said, of course. Read on for his experience at Copenhagen restaurant Noma’s pop-up in Los Angeles that took place this summer. Take it away, David.]

    The crab was alive a few minutes before I ate it.

    Just before service, the kitchen broke down a Dungeness crab and set it over open charcoal, the downtown Los Angeles skyline behind the smoke. It came to the table wreathed in dried pink pepper branches, with a butter sauce built on the same pepper. I've eaten crab all over the world — this was maybe the best crab ever.

    That was the first of 17 courses at Noma LA, and the best bite of the afternoon. Leading with your best shot is either confidence or a statement. By the end of lunch, I'd decided it was both.

    The residency had begun in turmoil. Founder René Redzepi stepped away from the residency the day it opened, following a news investigation into allegations of demeaning treatment of staff — conduct that had been discussed in industry circles for years. Protesters gathered at the gate that day. The kitchen, led by Pablo Soto, carried on through the residency's close on June 26.

    I went for lunch at the Paramour Estate, the 1920s Mediterranean mansion in Silver Lake that Noma called home for 16 weeks. For more than 30 years, I've traveled the world in search of culture, a little mystery, and always food, eating everywhere from strangers' kitchen tables to three-Michelin-star dining rooms.

    As the chef behind eculent and Ishtia in Kemah, I also eat with a cook's eye — which means I'll tell you what was brilliant and what was oversalted. Noma LA had a little of both, but after a half dozen meals at Noma over the past 10 years, I can say this one was a standout.

    The setup

    The logistics alone are remarkable. Noma relocated roughly 130 staff members and their families to Los Angeles and built a pantry sourced within 300 miles of the mansion. Lunch ran 17 courses over about four hours at $1,500 per person, including beverages and gratuity.

    Chef Soto greeted us at the entrance with the full kitchen staff, a Noma tradition. By the time I arrived, the protesters were long gone, and the brigade seemed to be cooking with a sense of relief.

    Rather than choose between the wine pairing and the nonalcoholic program, we asked our server, Mara, to mix the two course by course. She nailed it, moving from a sparkling rose-and-pink-pepper drink to a bright cherimoya lemonade to a 25-year-old Tony Coturri zinfandel from Glen Ellen that became the table's favorite pour.

    The standouts

    The crab. It opened the meal, and nothing that followed topped it. The pink pepper did double duty with the dried branches perfuming the shell, the butter sauce carrying a gentle heat — the sweet, smoky meat needed nothing else. Alongside came a 2022 Phelan Farm chardonnay from Rajat Parr's Cambria operation: white Burgundy in spirit, California in its bones.

    The cactus. Pickled tacinga cactus, marinated in Oaxacan mezcal and citrus and crowned with honeypot ants, arrived beneath a live cactus paddle with a eucalyptus handle.

    The acorn. A single braised acorn, glazed with black pepper, sat atop an uni custard made with Santa Barbara sea urchin and caviar in hoja santa oil. The server described it as a nod to California's Indigenous peoples. As a Choctaw, whose ancestors relied on acorns for thousands of years, I felt that one. It was also the most technically accomplished savory course of the meal.

    The seaweed and clams. Six varieties of Southern California seaweed with butter-kissed clams tasted like the coast itself. This is Noma at its best: not interpreting California so much as listening to it.

    The tuna eye. I've eaten cod eye at Noma in Copenhagen, but this version was way better. The kitchen removed the tough cornea, replaced it with a thin disk of kumquat, and served the eye chilled inside a ruby-red banana flower bract. Rich and gelatinous, it's eaten in one bite. When our table wondered aloud where the rest of all that tuna goes, Mara had the answer: family meal for the staff.

    The kelp mole. Grilled greens, a squash blossom stuffed with huitlacoche, and an artichoke on its stalk arrived with tortillas from Komal, one of Los Angeles's top heirloom molinos, paired with a mole built on kelp.

    Between the acorn, the cactus, and the mole, a question kept surfacing: what does it mean for a Danish kitchen to arrive in someone else's pantry and cook as though it has always been there? Some of these ingredients have fed Indigenous and Mexican cooks for centuries. Noma handled them with obvious respect and real curiosity. Sometimes, though, the line between homage and borrowing comes down to whether you're willing to say the name out loud.

    Dessert kept the surprises coming, including a macadamia custard served in a sunflower whose base turned out to be beeswax. The finale arrived as a bundle of ferns tied with string. Diners snip it open with tiny scissors to find a chocolate cookie and a fortune inside. Mine quoted Nietzsche: You must have chaos within you to give birth to a dancing star.

    Nietzsche, at $1,500 a head, in a Silver Lake mansion, from a kitchen whose founder walked away on opening day while protesters stood at the gate. The kitchen knew exactly what it was doing.

    The full menu, course by course

    For those keeping score, here's the complete lineup.

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab
    Daylily crab dumpling — The rest of the crab, tucked inside a trumpet-shaped daylily with buds plumped in crustacean liquor. The flower dominated; the crab was the reason to eat it.
    Chilled lobster broth — Spiny lobster stock, dashi, and elderflower oil served chilled in the lobster's own coral-colored shell. A palate reset dressed as a course.
    Spot prawn with matcha — Served in real seaweed, the head filled with smoked pumpkin paste for sucking, the tail painted with matcha. Paired with the 2024 Verso from Caleb Leisure in Sebastopol.
    Sea urchin custard and braised acorn
    Cactus with mezcal
    Ragout of California botanicals — Seasonal greens, peas, and herbs in a warm, quiet preparation, tied together by a hint of horseradish.
    SoCal seaweed and clam
    Tuna neck — Minced tuna neck in a koji-inoculated steamed bun with the texture of suede, topped with translucent shards of dried chicken-stock skin. Paired with the 2000 Estate Zinfandel from Tony Coturri.
    Tuna eye
    Black pearl rice steamed in avocado leaf — Ringed with pistachio oil and scattered with dime-sized macadamia slices. Humble ingredients in the spirit of California great Jeremiah Tower.
    Morels with habanero and yuzu — Sierra Nevada morels on turkey-tail mushrooms over hot stones. Bright and spicy, but heavy on the salt.
    Greens and grilled artichoke in spiced kelp mole
    Cherimoya and lemongrass — A green cocoa butter shell shaped like a cactus, hiding a smooth cherimoya ice cream. A California fruit most California menus ignore.
    Macadamia milk custard and pistachio — Topped with heirloom Hong Kong kumquats from a handful of research trees that fruit four weeks a year, served in a beeswax-lined sunflower.
    Silver Lake fortune cookie — A Chiapas chocolate mousse cookie garnished with insects, hidden in a bundle of ferns you cut open with tiny scissors. Fortune included.

    The misses

    Not every course landed. Morels with habanero and yuzu were oversalted, and some presentations were delivered too quietly to catch the full story. At $1,500 a seat, the storytelling should be as confident as the cooking.

    The verdict

    Having now eaten Noma's traveling editions in Tulum and Los Angeles, I'll offer an opinion that may be unpopular in certain circles: the pop-ups are better than Copenhagen. Maybe it's the hunt for new ingredients, or the urgency of a 16-week run in a borrowed house. Whatever the reason, the results are hard to argue with. I put that theory to the test in August, when I returned to Noma on my birthday, three days after it reopened with Soto at the helm. More on that meal soon.

    Noma LA wasn't really a restaurant. It was an argument about a place, made in food, by people who flew 6,000 miles to make it. The argument was frequently brilliant, occasionally presumptuous, and closed with Nietzsche in a fortune cookie. On balance, it won.

    ----

    David Skinner is a James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas and the owner of eculent and Ishtia in Kemah. He also writes the culinary travel journal Destination Eater on Substack.

    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles

    Courtesy of David Skinner

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

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