Destinations

Hello gorgeous: Northern Michigan may be the most beautiful place in America

At Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, you are about to embark on the mostintense dune climb of your life.
Photo by Ellie Knaus
CultureMap contributor Ellie Knaus takes a breather.
The view from the bottom of the dunes.
Photo by Ellie Knaus
Northern Michigan has pockets of breathless beauty.
Photo by Ellie Knaus

Good Morning America has voted the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in Michigan the "Most Beautiful Place in America."A little over a week ago, Traverse City, Mich., was featured in the New York Times travel section. It’s great to see Michigan getting some kudos. I spend all year looking forward to my summer pilgrimage Up North: the sandy beaches, the fireworks, the cherry stands, and the sunsets. It’s the bee’s knees. If you are lucky enough to spend a day in Northern Michigan, here are my suggestions.

There are many fantastic restaurants in Traverse City, but if I could pick one breakfast spot, it's Patisserie Amie. The French food is decadent and the décor is cozy. Your day hasn’t started until you sip a Hitch, sweetened espresso with homemade whip cream. Don’t feel guilty about stocking up calorically. You’re about to burn it all off at our next stop: the sand dunes.

A vertical journey

The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore covers 35 miles of beach. Its natural beauty will knock the wind out of you. And if that doesn’t, the dune climb will. Park your car at Lookout Point #9, apply sunscreen, and don’t forget your water bottle.You are about to embark on the most intense dune climb of your life.

You might be tempted to walk over to the observation deck to get an overview of your challenge. Don’t. You will see climbers gripping the side of the insanely steep dune, face into sand. It’s not an encouraging sight. If you are in shape, just go for it. Take running leaps down the 450 foot drop to Lake Michigan. It’s exhilarating. It feels like you are flying.

When you reach the bottom, look up. That’s what you have to climb. There aren’t any other options. (I’ve heard you might be able to walk down the beach a few miles to some sort of pick up area, but you aren’t a quitter!) At this point, some climbers wade into Lake Michigan to cool off. I would not advise that. The sand will stick to your wet body on the climb back up. You’ll be like a human swiffer for sand.

The climb is 90% mental. Take it slow and steady. Set mini-goals for yourself, like: I must pass that sunburned guy ahead of me, or, I’ll climb for thirty seconds before I moan and rest. Think up a reward: I’ll have an extra scoop of Moomer’s ice cream tonight. Imagine an army guy yelling at you to get to the top. Think about how good it will feel to brag about the fact that you did this.

You’ll witness powerful moments of camaraderie on this vertical journey: strangers sharing a water bottle, kids encouraging their aggravated mother to take one more step. Perhaps, in the classiest moment in Michigan history, my husband passed two teenage girls clinging to the side of the dune, and overheard this...

Girl #1: Oh no. I have to pee.

Girl #2: Go back down to the water.

Girl #1: I can’t. I’ll never be able to climb back up again.

Girl #2: So, just pee.

Girl #1: On myself?

Girl #2: I won’t tell.

You will feel exhausted and invigorated when you reach the top. Flex your muscles. You are an animal! Now, go to the lookout point and marvel at your accomplishment. You climbed 450 feet of sliding sand!

If you aren’t up for a cardio-induced heart attack, or if you are recovering from an injury, it’s still worth the visit. Chill out on a beach towel. Soak in the views. Admire the sailboats passing by on their way to Mackinac Island.

Dining options

Is that your tummy growling? Get back in the car. Next stop: the Old Mission General Store. This place is a time warp. Scoop candy out of the barrels, order a sandwich, and drive down to the little beach nearby for a picnic. Go for a swim. Fall asleep in the afternoon sunlight.

Now you’ve got a couple options. Explore the wineries on the Peninsula or drive back into Traverse City to shop on Front Street.

At dusk, take a walk down Sixth Street to admire the Victorian mansions. And then, drive over to The Village at Grand Traverse, a re-development of the former Traverse City State Hospital. It’s dinner time at the asylum! Reservations should be made in advance for Trattoria Stella. It’s a farm-to-table restaurant with a mind-blowing wine list. The wait staff are experts in good food and wine, and they are friendly to boot. Ask the staff if they’ve seen ghosts. They have stories. Order drinks and make a toast to your beautiful, action-packed summer day in Northern Michigan.

Patisserie Amie - 237 Lake Ave #200, Traverse City, MI, (231) 922-9645

Link for Directions to the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Old Mission General Store - 18250 Mission Road, Traverse City, MI (231) 223-4310

Trattoria Stella - 1200 West Eleventh Street, Traverse City, MI (231) 929-8989

Follow former Houstonian Ellie Knaus on Twitter (@ellieinla) and her fun blog: www.ellieinla.com

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HISTORY CORRECTED

Houston documentary maker helps correct biased Texas historical marker

Photo by Virginia Diaz-Laughlin

Medrano stands in front of the Karankawa marker while filming 'Truly Texas Mexican.'

It's not often that a film has an impact past the box office, but one documentary has helped tell the truth about the Texas Gulf Coast's long-disparaged Karankawa people.

For years, the Indigenous Peoples of the Coastal Bend and the Karankawa Tribe of Texas have fought for a corrected Texas Historical Commission marker in Corpus Christi. Houstonian Adán Medrano’s 2021 film, Truly Texas Mexican, helped finalize a push that will lead to a long-due correction on July 25.

The old marker was plainly offensive. Not only did it say the Karankawa people had "gained a reputation for savagery," but it repeated the long-discredited claim that they practiced cannibalism — a contention born out of the colonial need to justify violence against the tribe.

Medrano, a San Antonio native who currently lives in Houston, became part of the fight when he stood in front of the marker and made a direct appeal to correct the sign.

"I call upon the historians who live in Texas to come up and stand up and say, 'Take this down. This is a lie,'" he said during a scene in Truly Texas Mexican.

Two of them heard the call. Texas A&M University–Corpus Christi history professor Dr. Peter Moore and historian Dr. Tim Seiter of the University of Texas at Tyler joined the years-long Indigenous effort following the film's release. Led by the Indigenous Peoples of the Coastal Bend and the Karankawa Tribe of Texas, the academics helped research and draft a replacement that honors them as one of Texas' first peoples.

The marker not only replaces racist mythmaking with scholarship and tribal knowledge, it presents the fact that Karankawa descendants aren't a historical footnote but a living community still present in South Texas today.

Medrano's advocacy here continues his work with the T exas Indigenous Food Project, a nonprofit dedicated to celebrating the Indigenous foodways of Texas and the Americas. But in many ways it is a continuation of a career devoted to amplifying voices rarely heard in popular culture. In 1976, he founded San Antonio's CineFestival, now the nation's longest-running Latine film festival.

At 10 am on July 25, representatives of the Indigenous Peoples of the Coastal Bend and the Karankawa Tribe of Texas will unveil the corrected marker, joined by Medrano. Visitors can find it at 6001 Ennis Joslin Rd.

adan medrano film indigenous history history