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    Lusting for Lenoir

    A wine orgasm? Yes, please — when daytripping to Messina Hof blows your moonlitmind

    Joel Luks
    Jul 29, 2012 | 4:04 pm
    • My sojourn to Messina Hof Winery & Resort ambled from grape to glass, beginningin a vast orchard filled with grapevines ready to bestow their berries.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • The five-weekend 2012 Harvest Festival is full of activities, including grapepicking, stomping, special menus, wine and food pairing parties at the VintageHouse Restaurant, themed murder mystery dinners, galas and dance soirées.
    • With a blade in hand and a plastic crate in the other, off we gallivanted in andaround selected rows in search of tightly packed canopies.
      Photo by Emily Goetz
    • Some took their jobs seriously and opted for speed while for others, it was agenteel diversion.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Much of what was harvested was allocated for the bottle, the rest was designatedfor pure, sticky, stomping fun — not for consumption.
      Photo by Carey Kirkpatrick
    • With juice-soaked feet from treading on fruit, there was only one logical thingto do: Spring onto a white T-shirt and sign a memento of the tracks of yourlabor.
      Photo by Carey Kirkpatrick
    • Roses at the end of each row serve as a vineyard barometer. If anything attacksthe integrity of the grapes, the roses would also be affected.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • As the sun set in the horizon, hues of pinks and blues colored the expansivesky.
      Photo by Joel Luks

    It felt like an embrace from someone who promised that everything was going to be OK, that life would turn out just as it should. Perhaps by that familiar stranger with whom you connect immediately, inexplicably, illogically — the kind of connection that leads to a one-night romp.

    It was one of those moments when you didn't care about the next morning — everything was about the present.

    Would you believe that such a stranger was a glass of wine? It was — and I wasn't inebriated.

    In my monogrammed stemware was a couple of fingers of Messina Hof's Papa Paulo Port, a vintage that's exclusively crafted from the Lenoir varietal, the juice of which is intensely flavorful, deeply pink and sinfully intoxicating. It's aged in oak barrels for 24 months. Whereas most ports are fortified with brandy, this one isn't; it's 100 percent late-harvest Lenoir grape.

    Swallow this, Portugal. In this Texas port, hints of lusty cocoa, coffee and cherries dominate the tongue. A few swigs later, warmth from head to toe. Another? Please. On second thought, heck, may I see the bottle?

    In this Texas port, hints of lusty cocoa, coffee and cherries dominate the tongue. A few swigs later, warmth from head to toe. Another? Please. On second thought, heck, may I see the bottle?

    Not to pretend I that was in a scene from When Harry Met Sally, but that's in a nutshell the gist of what ensued — minus the audible orgasm. Gazes and nods from my companions around the Moonlit Harvest dinner table last Friday at dusk, at the kickoff of Messina Hof's 2012 Harvest Festival which runs through Aug. 19, evinced that I wasn't alone.

    The five-weekend festival is full of activities including grape picking, stomping, special menus, wine and food pairing parties at the Vintage House Restaurant, themed murder mystery dinners, galas and dance soirées.

    Ask vintner Paul Bonarrigo about his technique for brewing this 2012 Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo Wine Competition Texas Class Champion bottle and he'll respond with an elaborate tale about his complete head of hair, his red leather beret and his 35-year marriage to his wife Merill, whose maiden name is Hof (a nod to the Bavarian city in Germany).

    Or some story about fermenting wine inside a truck while road-tripping across the country. The hilarious anecdotes just keep on coming.

    The first bottle of Messina Hof wine may have been produced in 1983, but the pair's respective families had many decades of winemaking tradition. In Bonarrigo's Italian family, the first born was always named Paul and was expected to carry on the métier. The eighth-generation Paul had come into the world a few days prior to our visit; there was much to celebrate, and many vats of wine to consume.

    I was happy to partake in just this one glass.

    Our sojourn to the 42-acre Bryan vineyard ambled from grape to glass, beginning in a vast orchard filled with grapevines ready to bestow their berries. With a blade in hand and a plastic crate in the other, off we gallivanted in and around selected rows in search of tightly packed canopies. As the sun set in the horizon, hues of pinks and blues colored the expansive sky. Some took their jobs seriously and opted for speed while, for others, it was a genteel diversion.

    Much of what was harvested was allocated for the bottle, and the rest was designated for pure, sticky, stomping fun — not for consumption, but to be composted as fertilizer. With juice-soaked feet from treading on fruit, there was only one logical thing to do: Jump on a white T-shirt and sign a memento of the foot tracks of your labor.

    Though not before the Big Kahuna Award was presented to Marianne Henry, a sassy dame celebrating her 72nd birthday. To win the honor, grape pickers had to identify an interesting-looking bunch, give it a cutesy title and showcase a special talent. Henry's fierce tai chi moves and don't-mess-with-me attitude earned the popular vote.

    Perfectly wined and over-dined, the jaunt to Houston's wasn't particularly taxing. Someone else was driving.

    Messina Hof Winery & Resort's 2012 Harvest Festival runs through Aug. 19 and offers visitors daily activities. Prices vary by event. Click here for more information.

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    news/travel

    HISTORY CORRECTED

    Houston documentary maker helps correct biased Texas historical marker

    Brandon Watson
    Jul 24, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Karankawa marker
    Photo by Virginia Diaz-Laughlin
    Medrano stands in front of the Karankawa marker while filming 'Truly Texas Mexican.'

    It's not often that a film has an impact past the box office, but one documentary has helped tell the truth about the Texas Gulf Coast's long-disparaged Karankawa people.

    For years, the Indigenous Peoples of the Coastal Bend and the Karankawa Tribe of Texas have fought for a corrected Texas Historical Commission marker in Corpus Christi. Houstonian Adán Medrano’s 2021 film, Truly Texas Mexican, helped finalize a push that will lead to a long-due correction on July 25.

    The old marker was plainly offensive. Not only did it say the Karankawa people had "gained a reputation for savagery," but it repeated the long-discredited claim that they practiced cannibalism — a contention born out of the colonial need to justify violence against the tribe.

    Medrano, a San Antonio native who currently lives in Houston, became part of the fight when he stood in front of the marker and made a direct appeal to correct the sign.

    "I call upon the historians who live in Texas to come up and stand up and say, 'Take this down. This is a lie,'" he said during a scene in Truly Texas Mexican.

    Two of them heard the call. Texas A&M University–Corpus Christi history professor Dr. Peter Moore and historian Dr. Tim Seiter of the University of Texas at Tyler joined the years-long Indigenous effort following the film's release. Led by the Indigenous Peoples of the Coastal Bend and the Karankawa Tribe of Texas, the academics helped research and draft a replacement that honors them as one of Texas' first peoples.

    The marker not only replaces racist mythmaking with scholarship and tribal knowledge, it presents the fact that Karankawa descendants aren't a historical footnote but a living community still present in South Texas today.

    Medrano's advocacy here continues his work with the Texas Indigenous Food Project, a nonprofit dedicated to celebrating the Indigenous foodways of Texas and the Americas. But in many ways it is a continuation of a career devoted to amplifying voices rarely heard in popular culture. In 1976, he founded San Antonio's CineFestival, now the nation's longest-running Latine film festival.

    At 10 am on July 25, representatives of the Indigenous Peoples of the Coastal Bend and the Karankawa Tribe of Texas will unveil the corrected marker, joined by Medrano. Visitors can find it at 6001 Ennis Joslin Rd.

    adan medranofilmindigenous historyhistory
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