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    Family Vacation Tips

    Road Trip: 10 rules for an unforgettable fun family driving vacation

    Dawn McMullan
    Jul 7, 2013 | 1:09 pm

    I can think of no reason to be in Texas in July and August. Which is why for the past several years, our family has taken a three- to four-week-long summer road trip.

    Decadent? Insane? Affordable, even as gas prices continue to rise?

    All of the above.

    Although I can easily work on the road with my laptop, my husband, who grew up flying first class as a Delta kid, is no fan of the extended road trip and has grown-up job vacation. So he usually meets us in one city and flies out of another two weeks later.

    Here’s a rundown of our first four trips, which started in 2009 when the boys were 9 and 12.

    • Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, Virginia, D.C., Philadelphia, New York City, upstate New York and Niagara Falls — 3,395 miles, 33 days, 11 states for a little less than $3,600.
    • To and around Florida — 3,052 miles, 23 days, five states for about $2,600.
    • New Mexico, Colorado to South Dakota (I promised a college friend back in the ’80s I’d someday visit him and had to make good), North Dakota, Minnesota, Chicago, St. Louis — 12 states, 23 days, 4,731 miles for about $2,500.
    • Up to the Northeast and Canada last year — 19 states, 6,015 miles, 31 days, 19 states and way over budget at $4,500 (things like Broadway shows and whale watching in Maine are not budget friendly, in case you were wondering).

    This year, we’re headed west: San Diego, Vegas, Zion National Park, Grand Canyon and Sedona. Without random detours — and there will be random detours — Google maps puts this one at just under 3,400 miles.

    My kids have been to most of the continental United States, and we plan to knock three more states off the list this year. I’ve intentionally left Nebraska and Kansas to them. Their spouses and children can thank me later.

    Why, you (and most of my sane and sober friends) ask?

    Because, at ages 13 and 16, my kids request it. Because driving is always cheaper than flying. And because this is a sacred time. I believe the family road trip with teens and pre-teens is a lot like the family bed of their younger days. It’s cozy and creates a family unit, regardless of whether everyone’s comfortable or not.

    With those thoughts in mind, here are my 10 rules of the road trip, most learned the hard way:

    1. Never eat at a chain restaurant
    We broke this rule a couple of times one summer to satisfy my 10-year-old’s new love affair with Shoney’s. And we may relax the rules a bit at the end when we’re just trying to get home. But it’s a mistake.

    One summer, we drove from Key West to Clearwater. After surviving an alligator tour by a sixth-generation Everglades City native, we were starving. We drove around, searching for options, and finally saw Curry Creek Cafe in Nokomis on the west coast, across from the Cheetah Flooring Outlet.

    I was expecting small-town cafe, BLTs and the like. I wasn’t expecting David Arbuckle (the chef-owner who chatted us up a couple of times during our meal and has been written up in the New York Times) and his wife, Rofi, whose Indonesian heritage inspired their menu. That’s a treat that can’t come in a bucket or an all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet.

    Tip: Never, ever eat at a restaurant with pictures of its food out front. That never works out well.

    2. Put the kids in charge of the money
    When I traveled around Europe in my 20s, I had a budget of $30 a day. I kept meticulous notes in a small notepad about what I spent each day. I have the kids do the same thing, keeping track of all expenses and averaging them out so we can see how we’re doing.

    Our budget is an average of $115 a day (lower when we’re camping in Kentucky or staying at a friend’s beach house, higher when we’re seeing a Broadway show in New York City). Suddenly, the kids are fine to eat in or pitch a tent when we get close to busting budget.

    It becomes a game. The highlight of this way of traveling is the $0 day, as perfected on that trip to Europe. It is pure budget traveler joy.

    3. It’s always preferably to pay to do instead of paying to sleep
    Rule 3b: There is no shame in Motel 6. On our Florida trip, we stayed at the Motel 6 (or just The 6, as we like to call it) twice on the way there, a boatel in Key Largo, a hostel in New Orleans and two more Motel 6s on our way home. All told, we spent $224 in lodging for our three-week vacation.

    Friends in West Palm Beach were going to be out of town when we were there, so they offered their house. A friend in Key West gave us her apartment for a long weekend so we could crash there. And a family from church offered us their beach house near Clearwater.

    How lucky and thankful are we that instead of spending thousands of dollars on lodging — or skipping the vacation entirely — we were able to parasail, see dolphins, snorkel and play on some of our country’s best beaches?

    Now, I’m not promoting mooching. But if the opportunity arises, staying with someone or at someone’s place is a much more local way to travel. And the free aspect certainly is a bonus.

    4. Always listen to the locals
    Any chance you have to ask a local — a friend or the girl pumping gas next to you — where to eat, play or shop, you should listen. Our friend in Key West got us a half-price parasailing just by walking in with us and saying hi to her friend who worked at the watersport business. She also took us to the best crêperie outside of Paris.

    Traveling low to the ground, as Rick Steves would say, makes for the best kind of travel.

    5. You need a rest day at least once a week
    This may involve a few hours of Shark Week, a trip to a bookstore, laundry, chess or general lazing about. Yes, vacation time is limited. But this will keep you sane during all the days of snorkeling, whale watching, lunch with friends and national park visiting. Rest is the idea on a vacation, right?

    6. Travel days suck
    This is something I learned on my six-month trip to Europe. As I told the kids on the day we drove from Key West up to Clearwater, “Any fun we have today is just bonus. But don’t expect it.” Surprisingly, it was a wonderful day. But don’t get used to it.

    Travel days often have more than their fair share of yelling, pouting and grumpy attitude. They are what they are so set your expectations somewhere between root canal and moving day.

    7. If you’re just eating to sustain life, eat — and drink — in
    Sure, we eat some fabulous meals while on the road. But one night last summer we had an amazing meal on the porch under a rainbow for less than $20. Ribs, okra, Brussels sprouts, a nice Riesling for us, Jamaican ginger ale for the kids. You can’t get DQ for four at that price if you go out.

    8. Be creative with the math
    When budgeting for a trip, few people consider what they would spend if they were at home. We’d be eating, doing at least a few fun things and using gas even if we were at home. So items like that come off the top of the budget from the start. Makes the total a lot more palatable.

    9. Visit friends along the way
    Not only does this help with rules No. 3 and 4, it just makes the trip more fun. Some friends are obvious. But look up anyone you know and at one time in your life enjoyed spending time with.

    My ex-boyfriend’s sister’s husband taught my kids to snorkel one summer. Weird? Maybe. But it was a great time. There’s little better in life than watching your old friends hang with your husband and kids — like different chapters of your book all coming together for a beautiful finale.

    10. Pick a road trip theme song
    In our case, the song is often chosen by my rap-loving oldest son, so it isn’t family-friendly. Past road trip theme songs have included Usher’s Yeah and Tech N9NE’s Caribou Lou (for our Florida trip, natch).

    My husband will someday use this as evidence against me should we ever end up in family court. But whenever things get tense in the car, I crank it up. And the road trip memories brought up by a good beat and inappropriate lyrics continue long after the trip odometer stops.

    I can’t tell you how many bad moods have ended by playing these songs on a grumpy Tuesday in mid-February and the laughs they bring when we randomly catch them on the radio.

    Their spouses and children can thank me later.

    The backyard view of our motel in Vermont (cheap, but not the 6).

    Family road trip to Vermont
    Photo by Dawn McMullan
    The backyard view of our motel in Vermont (cheap, but not the 6).
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    Notes from a chef

    Globe-trotting Houston chef reviews Noma's $1,500 Los Angeles pop-up

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 9, 2026 | 4:00 pm
    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles
    Courtesy of David Skinner
    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

    [Editor’s note: When David Skinner, chef and owner of Kemah’s celebrated eculent and Ishtia restaurants, offered to share his experience eating at one of the world’s best restaurants, we said, of course. Read on for his experience at Copenhagen restaurant Noma’s pop-up in Los Angeles that took place this summer. Take it away, David.]

    The crab was alive a few minutes before I ate it.

    Just before service, the kitchen broke down a Dungeness crab and set it over open charcoal, the downtown Los Angeles skyline behind the smoke. It came to the table wreathed in dried pink pepper branches, with a butter sauce built on the same pepper. I've eaten crab all over the world — this was maybe the best crab ever.

    That was the first of 17 courses at Noma LA, and the best bite of the afternoon. Leading with your best shot is either confidence or a statement. By the end of lunch, I'd decided it was both.

    The residency had begun in turmoil. Founder René Redzepi stepped away from the residency the day it opened, following a news investigation into allegations of demeaning treatment of staff — conduct that had been discussed in industry circles for years. Protesters gathered at the gate that day. The kitchen, led by Pablo Soto, carried on through the residency's close on June 26.

    I went for lunch at the Paramour Estate, the 1920s Mediterranean mansion in Silver Lake that Noma called home for 16 weeks. For more than 30 years, I've traveled the world in search of culture, a little mystery, and always food, eating everywhere from strangers' kitchen tables to three-Michelin-star dining rooms.

    As the chef behind eculent and Ishtia in Kemah, I also eat with a cook's eye — which means I'll tell you what was brilliant and what was oversalted. Noma LA had a little of both, but after a half dozen meals at Noma over the past 10 years, I can say this one was a standout.

    The setup

    The logistics alone are remarkable. Noma relocated roughly 130 staff members and their families to Los Angeles and built a pantry sourced within 300 miles of the mansion. Lunch ran 17 courses over about four hours at $1,500 per person, including beverages and gratuity.

    Chef Soto greeted us at the entrance with the full kitchen staff, a Noma tradition. By the time I arrived, the protesters were long gone, and the brigade seemed to be cooking with a sense of relief.

    Rather than choose between the wine pairing and the nonalcoholic program, we asked our server, Mara, to mix the two course by course. She nailed it, moving from a sparkling rose-and-pink-pepper drink to a bright cherimoya lemonade to a 25-year-old Tony Coturri zinfandel from Glen Ellen that became the table's favorite pour.

    The standouts

    The crab. It opened the meal, and nothing that followed topped it. The pink pepper did double duty with the dried branches perfuming the shell, the butter sauce carrying a gentle heat — the sweet, smoky meat needed nothing else. Alongside came a 2022 Phelan Farm chardonnay from Rajat Parr's Cambria operation: white Burgundy in spirit, California in its bones.

    The cactus. Pickled tacinga cactus, marinated in Oaxacan mezcal and citrus and crowned with honeypot ants, arrived beneath a live cactus paddle with a eucalyptus handle.

    The acorn. A single braised acorn, glazed with black pepper, sat atop an uni custard made with Santa Barbara sea urchin and caviar in hoja santa oil. The server described it as a nod to California's Indigenous peoples. As a Choctaw, whose ancestors relied on acorns for thousands of years, I felt that one. It was also the most technically accomplished savory course of the meal.

    The seaweed and clams. Six varieties of Southern California seaweed with butter-kissed clams tasted like the coast itself. This is Noma at its best: not interpreting California so much as listening to it.

    The tuna eye. I've eaten cod eye at Noma in Copenhagen, but this version was way better. The kitchen removed the tough cornea, replaced it with a thin disk of kumquat, and served the eye chilled inside a ruby-red banana flower bract. Rich and gelatinous, it's eaten in one bite. When our table wondered aloud where the rest of all that tuna goes, Mara had the answer: family meal for the staff.

    The kelp mole. Grilled greens, a squash blossom stuffed with huitlacoche, and an artichoke on its stalk arrived with tortillas from Komal, one of Los Angeles's top heirloom molinos, paired with a mole built on kelp.

    Between the acorn, the cactus, and the mole, a question kept surfacing: what does it mean for a Danish kitchen to arrive in someone else's pantry and cook as though it has always been there? Some of these ingredients have fed Indigenous and Mexican cooks for centuries. Noma handled them with obvious respect and real curiosity. Sometimes, though, the line between homage and borrowing comes down to whether you're willing to say the name out loud.

    Dessert kept the surprises coming, including a macadamia custard served in a sunflower whose base turned out to be beeswax. The finale arrived as a bundle of ferns tied with string. Diners snip it open with tiny scissors to find a chocolate cookie and a fortune inside. Mine quoted Nietzsche: You must have chaos within you to give birth to a dancing star.

    Nietzsche, at $1,500 a head, in a Silver Lake mansion, from a kitchen whose founder walked away on opening day while protesters stood at the gate. The kitchen knew exactly what it was doing.

    The full menu, course by course

    For those keeping score, here's the complete lineup.

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab
    Daylily crab dumpling — The rest of the crab, tucked inside a trumpet-shaped daylily with buds plumped in crustacean liquor. The flower dominated; the crab was the reason to eat it.
    Chilled lobster broth — Spiny lobster stock, dashi, and elderflower oil served chilled in the lobster's own coral-colored shell. A palate reset dressed as a course.
    Spot prawn with matcha — Served in real seaweed, the head filled with smoked pumpkin paste for sucking, the tail painted with matcha. Paired with the 2024 Verso from Caleb Leisure in Sebastopol.
    Sea urchin custard and braised acorn
    Cactus with mezcal
    Ragout of California botanicals — Seasonal greens, peas, and herbs in a warm, quiet preparation, tied together by a hint of horseradish.
    SoCal seaweed and clam
    Tuna neck — Minced tuna neck in a koji-inoculated steamed bun with the texture of suede, topped with translucent shards of dried chicken-stock skin. Paired with the 2000 Estate Zinfandel from Tony Coturri.
    Tuna eye
    Black pearl rice steamed in avocado leaf — Ringed with pistachio oil and scattered with dime-sized macadamia slices. Humble ingredients in the spirit of California great Jeremiah Tower.
    Morels with habanero and yuzu — Sierra Nevada morels on turkey-tail mushrooms over hot stones. Bright and spicy, but heavy on the salt.
    Greens and grilled artichoke in spiced kelp mole
    Cherimoya and lemongrass — A green cocoa butter shell shaped like a cactus, hiding a smooth cherimoya ice cream. A California fruit most California menus ignore.
    Macadamia milk custard and pistachio — Topped with heirloom Hong Kong kumquats from a handful of research trees that fruit four weeks a year, served in a beeswax-lined sunflower.
    Silver Lake fortune cookie — A Chiapas chocolate mousse cookie garnished with insects, hidden in a bundle of ferns you cut open with tiny scissors. Fortune included.

    The misses

    Not every course landed. Morels with habanero and yuzu were oversalted, and some presentations were delivered too quietly to catch the full story. At $1,500 a seat, the storytelling should be as confident as the cooking.

    The verdict

    Having now eaten Noma's traveling editions in Tulum and Los Angeles, I'll offer an opinion that may be unpopular in certain circles: the pop-ups are better than Copenhagen. Maybe it's the hunt for new ingredients, or the urgency of a 16-week run in a borrowed house. Whatever the reason, the results are hard to argue with. I put that theory to the test in August, when I returned to Noma on my birthday, three days after it reopened with Soto at the helm. More on that meal soon.

    Noma LA wasn't really a restaurant. It was an argument about a place, made in food, by people who flew 6,000 miles to make it. The argument was frequently brilliant, occasionally presumptuous, and closed with Nietzsche in a fortune cookie. On balance, it won.

    ----

    David Skinner is a James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas and the owner of eculent and Ishtia in Kemah. He also writes the culinary travel journal Destination Eater on Substack.

    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles

    Courtesy of David Skinner

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

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