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    Outsider fashion

    Punk times are back: New NYC fashion exhibit shows off spiked hair, safety pins and more

    Joseph V. Amodio
    Joseph V. Amodio
    May 16, 2013 | 1:43 pm

    NEW YORK — There are, no doubt, more than a few people in this town who thought — misguidedly — they’d never have to face the urinals at CBGB again. But there they are, in all their grimy glory, recreated with the requisite stains, the sinks opposite with those faucets you probably don’t want to touch, and all around them on the walls graffiti — lots of it.

    Weirder still — we’re at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

    The infamous CBGB restroom — lovingly recreated from images of the real thing — is just one of the many intriguing sights at the new exhibit, “Punk: Chaos to Couture,"which runs through Aug. 14 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.

    Dior, Chanel, Givenchy, Versace, Moschino, Dolce & Gabbana, Thom Browne, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and more are all represented — tattered ball gowns, leather harnesses, inside-out pants. Not your standard office attire.

    But back to the bathroom.

    Actually, it’s easy to get lost in a reverie at this exhibit—even if you were too young to actually have been part of the punk movement.

    The decades-old graffiti seems almost quaint (“Mumps will program you,” “youth,” “spit” and “Greg [whoever he was] was here”). Familiar strains waft from overhead speakers. Hear it? It’s The Ramones singing “Now I Wanna Sniff Some Glue” and “Judy is a Punk.” Ahh, memories.

    Actually, it’s easy to get lost in a reverie at this exhibit — even if you were too young to actually have been part of the punk movement.

    “What’s particularly interesting is how so many people feel ownership of this movement, whether they were a part of it or not,” says curator Andrew Bolton.

    Zandra Rhodes might agree. The British designer’s 1977 collection was one of the first notable lines to include safety pins, shredding and the like.

    “Everyone thinks a safety pin is something ghastly, and should not be seen,” she says, standing beside two of her dresses on display at the exhibit — one black, one white, both slashed with holes and adorned with safety pins.

    “I thought—why not make them like beads,” she says. “Why shouldn’t a tear, a safety pin and a chain look as good as a row of beading?”

    Rhodes has in recent years taken on the opera world, designing inventive sets and costumes for various operas, including Verdi’s Aida, which premiered at Houston Grand Opera in 2007. It’s headed back there this October.

    Her take on punk, then and now, is . . . wry.

    “They’re quite ordinary people,” she says of many of the hard-edged punks from back in the day. “Making middle-aged music.”

    She’s smiling ‘neath her hot pink bob.

    Where it began

    The punk movement began in the mid 1970s, most agree, at the rowdy rock ‘n’ roll club CBGB in lower Manhattan, and Seditionaries, a boutique run by young punks Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren.

    That boutique is also recreated — and looks remarkably kempt. Of course, a slight clue of hard-living is perhaps found on the door. Read the hours, and you see the place on 430 Kings Road in London’s Chelsea was open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. on weekdays, but only till 3 p.m on. Saturdays. Presumably, they had to rest up for a raucous Saturday night.

    Plenty of museum-goers will have sharp views on whether any kind of exhibition on punk—a movement as anti-establishment as you can get—can possibly be done at an icon of the established order, like the Met.

    The period elicits a strong sense of ownership. Plenty of museum-goers will no doubt have sharp views on whether any kind of exhibition on punk — a movement as anti-establishment as you can get — can possibly be done at an icon of the established order, like the Met.

    Bolton’s anticipating all that. The idea, he says, is not to DEFINE punk, or provide a painstaking chronology of punk events, but to show how a slew of high-end designers got the message, and incorporated this street aesthetic into their — yes, often incredibly high-priced . . . and there’s something more than a little ironic about that — collections.

    So rather than show ACTUAL garments worn by punks — no shredded tees from Sid Vicious or Patti Smith, which Bolton admits would “lose their vitality” in a museum setting — they opt to show the punks in gritty, grainy videos, alongside mannequins in spike-haired wigs.

    It’s particularly hilarious — it must be said — that the man responsible for setting up this show looks more like Opie Taylor (the cherubic son on classic TV’s Andy Griffith Show— Oscar-winning director Mr. Ron Howard, to you and me) than actual grown-up Opie.

    So did the preppy Brit curator with nary a hair out of place ever have a punk moment?

    “I was too young,” he admits. But he remembers seeing pictures of punks in the media, “and I was slightly terrified,” he says. But he also came to greatly respect the punk attitude about life. “You should just live your life. Be honest.”

    Outsider fashion

    At a press conference held before the exhibit opened, Bolton noted that “fashion is the first to acknowledge the outsider,” so it makes sense so many designers started incorporating punk elements in their work. The exhibit offers great examples.

    Must-sees include Moschino’s dot tulle gown with safety pins arrayed in a surprisingly graceful pattern, like flowers or snowflakes. Gareth Pugh’s garbage bag gowns, coats and stoles. A Maison Martin Margiela vest of porcelain plate shards held together with wire. Alexander McQueen’s spray-painted dresses and Dior’s crisp white button-down shirts for men, which look like the wearer was shot and bled a stain of red and black beads.

    The final gallery is like a breath of fresh air — with deconstructed ivory garments and distressed mohair knits. Overhead, you hear — no, not Johnny Rotten or the Sex Pistols (they’re heard elsewhere) — but King’s College Choir of Cambridge performing “Zadoc the Priest.”

    Zadoc the who?

    Composed by Handel, with text from the King James Bible, it was performed at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation — and Bolton thinks it’s a cheeky way to end the show.

    “One of the most famous songs The Sex Pistols did was ‘God Save the Queen,’” he says, smiling. “So the idea of flipping that, and using music that was used at the queen’s coronation we thought was like a nice punk ending.”

    Karl Lagerfeld’s take on punk for Chanel is in the exhibit, here seen in Vogue March 2011

    Punk Fashion at The Met May 2013 Karl Lagerfeld\u2019s take on punk for Chanel is in the exhibit, here seen in Vogue, March 2011
      
    Photo by David Sims The Metropolitan Museum of Art
    Karl Lagerfeld’s take on punk for Chanel is in the exhibit, here seen in Vogue March 2011
    unspecified
    news/travel

    Outside Ideas

    New podcast provides on-the-ground news from Texas state parks

    Brianna Caleri
    May 20, 2025 | 10:15 am
    Better Outside podcast host Morgan O’Hanlon
    Photo courtesy of Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD)
    Podcast host Morgan O’Hanlon captures ambient sound from a river.

    Outdoorsy Texans have a new way to keep track of conservation initiatives within Texas' parks. The Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) will launch a new podcast, Better Outside, on May 21 on all major podcast platforms.

    A press release promises that listeners will "travel the woods and waters of Texas through an array of awe-inspiring stories about conservation, recreation and the outdoors."

    The podcast does mean "travel" in a literal sense, taking listeners out in the field to experience the environments firsthand. They'll have a knowledgeable guide in host Morgan O’Hanlon, who is a senior writer at Texas Parks & Wildlife magazine, as well as TPWD executive director David Yoskowitz.

    “People are at the core of conservation work in Texas,” said Yoskowitz in the release. “I’m excited for you to hear their voices straight from the field, so they can share why the work they do matters and the impact it makes.”

    David Yoskowitz and Morgan O\u2019Hanlon recording Better Outside podcastDavid Yoskowitz and Morgan O’Hanlon record in the studio as well as in the field.Photo courtesy of Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD)

    Some examples of the work featured include creating a new trail across the state, touring an existing park, and restoring bighorn sheep (which were on the brink of being wiped out by 1900) in West Texas. Another episode in the Hill Country follows feral hog bounty hunters. Although well-informed listeners may already know about some of these subjects, the podcast specifically hopes to focus on hidden gems and expanding horizons.

    “I love adventure sports and am excited to inspire people to try new, and sometimes scary, things,” said O’Hanlon. “In our episode on the Devils River, I took my non-outdoorsy mom on one of the state’s most feared paddling trips. You’ll hear straight from her about the challenges I put her through — and why she would do it again.”

    Better Outside isn't TPWD’s first podcast. It was Under the Texas Sky, which launched in 2019 and followed similar themes, with a notable focus on culture. Some episodes followed the Indigenous history of Texas parks, cowboy poets, and chefs who are involved in sustainable farming and cooking. Under the Texas Sky stopped being made when its host, longtime Passport to Texas radio host Cecilia Nasti, retired.

    The new podcast is sponsored by the Austin-based Whole Earth Provision Co., which originally opened in 1970 as a real-life manifestation of the Whole Earth Catalog, and is now a cross between a camping, home goods, and outdoorsy gift store. It operates six locations in total in Austin, San Antonio, Houston, and Dallas.

    podcastparksstate parksnaturesustainabilityconservation
    news/travel

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