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    Scenes From SXSW 2011

    Lucinda Williams, Robert Earl Keen & Ryan Bingham rev up SXSW at new Austin CityLimits Live venue

    Susan Darrow
    Mar 19, 2011 | 2:41 pm
    • Robert Earl Keen, center, flaked by Rich Brotherton (left) and Bill Whitbeck(right)
      Photo by Susan Darrow
    • Lucinda Williams
      Photo by Susan Darrow
    • Ryan Bingham will perform at House of Blues in Houston tonight.
      Photo by Susan Darrow
    • Black Joe Lewis (with red guitar) and The Relatives
      Photo by Susan Darrow
    • The new Austin City Limits Venue, adjoining the W Hotel in Austin, provided agreat backdrop for a concert of Texas singers during SXSW 2011.
      Photo by Susan Darrow

    Day Three of the South by Southwest (SXSW) music conference and festival: So much to see, so little time, and central Austin is packed to the gills with capacity crowds.

    Taking it all in stride, Zen master Billy Gibbons told CultureMap at the Four Seasons, “It’s a pretty crazy town. But it takes people to make a party.”

    At South By, a little serenity is welcome at this point. The quest to catch as many hot bands as possible can take you all over town in a single evening. Sometimes, you get lucky, and your artists of choice all line up in one venue — so you can stay all night.

    Friday, the Lost Highway Records 10th Anniversary showcase offered Americana music aficionados the stellar roster of Black Joe Lewis, Hayes Carll, Robert Earl Keen, and Lucinda Williams — plus the added benefit of being among the first visitors to see the brand-new Austin City Limits Live venue at the Moody Theater.

    Austin-based Black Joe Lewis drew the starting slot, delivering a heaping helping of rock, blues, punk and funk, including songs from his just-released CD Scandalous and his popular “Sugarfoot” from Tell ‘Em What Your Name Is! Lewis brought a not-so-secret weapon with him in the form of the Dallas gospel group the Relatives. The nattily attired back-up singers glided across the stage, bounced up and down in perfect unison, and never missed a beat.

    Up next: Woodlands native Hayes Carll. Houston audiences have known about the wit and wisdom of Carll’s music for quite some time, since his 2002 debut album Flowers and Liquor. The 34-year-old long ago established himself as a singer-songwriter, having penned songs with no less than master craftsmen Guy Clark and Ray Wylie Hubbard, and has been a popular draw at clubs all over the state.

    With the release of this year’s KMAG YOYO and other American Stories, Carll has shown he’s ready to take the leap to a larger stage (like The Tonight Show with Jay Leno, where he appeared earlier this year). (The title track "KMAG YOYO" is named for a military acronym for “Kiss my ass guys, you’re on your own.”)

    Carll’s SXSW set focused on songs from KMAG YOYO, like the hard-charging “Stomp and Holler” and “Another Like You,” a duet with Bonnie Whitmore, about a couple in which “one likes Fox News, one likes MSNBC…it’s a modern-day Romeo and Juliet story.”

    Rumors had been swirling about the “special guests” who would appear next as part of the Lost Highway showcase, and the label didn’t disappoint. First, a brief solo acoustic set by Grammy Award-winner Dan Tyminski, who performed his version of “Man of Constant Sorrow,” which was featured in the movie O Brother, Where Art Thou?.

    Then, singer-songwriter Ryan Bingham and his band, The Dead Horses, took the stage. Bingham, whose song “The Weary Kind” from the Crazy Heart soundtrack (co-written with T-Bone Burnett) has captured an Academy Award, a Golden Globe, and a Grammy Award, delivered a masterful performance with a raw edge and a rocking groove.

    Bingham’s set spotlighted songs from his latest, Junky Star, including “Depression,” “Direction of the Wind,” and a moving version of “Hallelujah.” Bingham and The Dead Horses will appear tonight at Houston’s House of Blues.

    CultureMap first saw Bingham perform in a packed bar in Marfa, at a 2006 anniversary party for Lubbock artist/musician Terry Allen and his wife Jo Harvey Allen. The guest list included (among others) Allen’s friends David Byrne, Guy Clark, Butch Hancock, and Bingham’s future Lost Highway label-mate Robert Earl Keen.

    When a song swap began, a lesser songwriter might have been daunted by taking the mike in such illustrious company. But Bingham’s friend and mentor Joe Ely recalled of that evening, “Here’s Ryan, this new guy, sitting around and holding his own. When he plays something, you believe it.”

    Bingham, a native of Hobbs, N.M, was raised in Texas, including time in Stephenville and Spring. It hasn’t always been easy. He took a turn on the rodeo circuit as a bull rider, and when he was getting his start as a songwriter, he spent a fair amount of time bunking on Ely’s couch waiting for fame to strike. It’s been a quite a ride so far, and it looks like this is just the beginning. Catch him tonight if you can.

    Anchoring the 11 p.m. slot was Houston native (and Sharpstown High School graduate) Robert Earl Keen, always a favorite of Austin audiences. Keen's longtime band (including Rich Brotherton on guitar, Bill Whitbeck on bass, Marty Muse on pedal steel, and Tom Van Schaik on drums) hummed like a well-oiled machine.

    Ably demonstrating his considerable sardonic humor and songwriting prowess, Keen delivered a rousing set with songs from his 2009 release The Rose Hotel (including “Throwin’ Rocks” and “The Man Behind the Drums,” a tribute to Levon Helm) as well as the always-entertaining “Corpus Christi Bay” from A Bigger Piece of Sky.

    The Lost Highway tribute finished on a high note with songstress Lucinda Williams, introduced by Sirius XM radio host Mojo Nixon as “the lean mean queen of the scene.”

    Williams’ latest Lost Highway release, Blessed, is being compared by critics to her Grammy-Award winning 1998 album, Car Wheels on a Gravel Road. Her set, clocking in at an hour and 25 minutes, started punctually at midnight and drew from Blessed (“Buttercup,” “Convince Me” and the title track.) Williams also reached back into her catalogue for favorites like “Essence,” and “Changed the Locks.”

    She closed out the night with a searing version of “Joy” and the Buffalo Springfield song “For What It’s Worth,” which she dedicated to “the workers who are out in the streets voicing their opinions and standing up for their rights.” Williams is headed for Houston May 8 for a not-to-be missed set on the closing day of the Houston International Festival.

    From Bauhaus to Roadhouse

    One last word about the new Austin City Limits Live at Moody Theater, which had its official opening last month: It’s big – at around 2,700 seats, it’s roughly nine times bigger than the venue it replaced that housed television’s longest-running music series, Austin City Limits, for 36 years. (During future ACL television tapings, the space will be curtained off to house just 800 guests.)

    It’s hard not to feel a twinge of nostalgia for the intimate 300-seat space in Studio 6A on the sixth floor of the Communications Building at the University of Texas, where every one of the show’s previous 500-odd episodes were taped. But the sound in the new space is crystal clear, the sight lines terrific, and it’s easy to start falling in love with the venue. There's even easy access to the glitzy, adjoining W Hotel.

    The clean, modern lines of the building evoke an industrial feel — or, for Robert Earl Keen, an extra-terrestrial sensation. “What a great place this is!” quipped Keen. “The Starship Enterprise! Captain Kirk will be here, and Mister Chekov.”

    As Lost Highway’s illustrious roster demonstrated last night, with the right line-up it’s possible to go from Bauhaus to roadhouse in a single evening.

    Ryan Bingham will appear at the House of Blues tonight at 8 p.m. . 1204 Caroline Street.

    Lucinda Williams will appear at the Houston International Festival on the closing afternoon at 4:30 PM on Sunday, May 8.

    unspecified
    news/travel

    wine guy on the road

    Chris Shepherd wines and dines at a city that reminds him of Houston

    Chris Shepherd
    Aug 6, 2026 | 12:45 pm
    Al Ameer restaurant Dearborn
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Al Ameer won an America's Classic Award from the James Beard Foundation.

    Recently, I tagged along with my wife Lindsey to Detroit for a Southern Smoke industry lunch. I don’t work for the foundation, but I love any opportunity as a co-founder to meet with industry folks and share our resources (emergency relief funding and no-cost mental health care for people in the food and beverage industry) with them.

    What we found in the Motor City, though, was so much more than we ever imagined. Detroit absolutely blew us away.

    From the moment we arrived, we knew this place was special. We checked into the Detroit Foundation Hotel, housed inside the city’s landmark Fire Department headquarters built in 1929. The building served as headquarters until 2013 before being beautifully transformed into a hotel in 2017, and they preserved so much of its history.

    Our room had originally been the office of the Fire Commissioner’s secretary with soaring ceilings, dark wood walls, and details that made you feel connected to the building’s past. Downstairs, The Apparatus Room buzzes from morning until night. The original white tile walls remain, the massive windows where fire trucks once rolled out flood the room with light, and the bar pulls you in the second you walk through the door.

    The wine list is thoughtful with producers like Matthiasson, Ashes & Diamonds, and Lingua Franca, while the cocktail program is outstanding. More importantly, the bartenders were some of the best I’ve been around in a long time. Knowledgeable, welcoming, and genuinely excited about what they do. That’s something we kept finding everywhere we went.

    Dinner that first night was at Ladder 4 wine bar, another beautifully restored firehouse built in 1910. They took their time bringing the building back to life, and we could feel it. The wine program is incredibly well thought out, and the food celebrates the farms surrounding Detroit with dishes that are seasonal, fun, and full of personality.

    We ate tomatoes with stone fruit and ricotta salata; chicken Milanese parm with tomato, fior di latte, and pickled chilies; and then a dish that completely stole my heart: drive-thru hash browns topped with caviar and sour cream. We paired it with a bottle of Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis, and the evening just kept getting better.

    The biggest surprise was learning that the person guiding us through the wine list was actually the executive chef. His understanding of how food and wine belong together came through in every recommendation. You could feel the soul of the restaurant inside those old white tile walls and next to the original brass fire pole. Call it a wine bar, call it a restaurant — I just call it awesome.

    The next afternoon we headed over to Dearborn, because we absolutely had to visit Al Ameer. Home to one of the largest Muslim communities in America, Dearborn has an incredible food culture, and Al Ameer has been at the center of it since 1989. After earning the James Beard America’s Classic Award in 2016, it has become one of those places everyone should experience.

    Fresh pita hit the table nonstop alongside hummus, baba ghanoush, kibbeh, fattoush, and a spread of salads before we dug into mixed grills loaded with chicken and beef shawarma, kabobs, and kofta. We finished everything with fresh juices, sat back in our chairs, and just smiled. What a lunch.

    That night friends took us to Alpino, a restaurant inspired by the Alpine regions of France, Switzerland, Germany and Italy. Tell me the last time you started dinner with bubbling cheese fondue, bread, apples, potatoes and pickles alongside a bottle of Austrian Riesling…yeah, I thought so. It’s been too long. We followed that with strangolapreti tossed in spring herb butter, ricotta agnolotti with English peas, Wiener schnitzel with morels, house-made sausages and German Pinot Noir. That’s my kind of dinner.

    The following day we gathered at Leña for our Southern Smoke event, sharing a beautiful lunch and talking about taking care of the people who take care of all of us every day. Afterward, we walked over to Lafayette Coney Island, because you can’t come to Detroit without eating one of the city’s iconic hot dogs. Sitting next to its longtime rival American Coney Island, the story of the Keros brothers and their neighboring restaurants is as much a part of Detroit history as the hot dogs themselves. Sometimes you just have to eat a little history.

    Our final dinner was at SheWolf Pastificio & Bar. If you love pasta, this place belongs on your list immediately. They mill their own flour, make every pasta fresh daily, and devote an entire room to nothing but pasta production. It’s obsessive in the best possible way.

    Al Ameer restaurant Dearborn

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Al Ameer won an America's Classic Award from the James Beard Foundation.

    We started with an incredible panzanella of local tomatoes, charred focaccia, fermented corn and sheep’s milk ricotta before diving into a beautiful rigatoni amatriciana, sweet corn and ricotta-filled francobolli with pesto Genovese and popcorn, plus an off-menu duck confit pasta finished with Calabrian chile crunch. A bottle of 2017 Cascina Luisin Barbaresco tied everything together and reminded me once again why great food and great wine will always make each other better.

    What I’ll remember most isn’t just the food. It’s the people. Detroit is filled with chefs, farmers, sommeliers, bartenders, and restaurateurs who genuinely believe that lifting each other up is better than competing against one another. Their wine lists are deep, the bars are full of incredible spirits and amari, local farms are celebrated everywhere, and everyone seems invested in making the city better together.

    Sound familiar? It’s exactly what has made Houston one of the greatest food cities in America. Should Detroit be on your dining bucket list? Hell yes. It’s on mine now, and with a quick two-and-a-half-hour nonstop flight from Houston, I’ll happily be back.

    ----

    Want Chris' recommendations for other cities? Ask him by emailing chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014 and an Impact Award in 2026. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $16 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund.

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