The idea for a Costa Rica vacation began last fall with a winning silent auction bid at a fundraiser for the American Festival of the Arts. The prize: Accommodations for six at a privately owned casita in the newly developed Del Pacifico resort.
I was ready to pack my bags right away.
I had to wait a while, but it was worth it. About six weeks ago, our gracious host and hostess, another delightful couple and my husband and I arrived at the capital of San José after an easy three-hour flight out of IAH. We hopped in a van and headed toward the Pacific Coast — a scenic, winding trek through mountains dotted with orange-and red-leafed trees; past dense, tangled jungles interspersed with orderly coconut and coffee bean plantations; and into towns with brightly painted homes and storefronts. All along the way, roadside venders hawked fresh coconuts, mangos, pineapples, watermelons and other fresh fruits.
The sightseeing was spectacular all along the two-lane highway to Del Pacifico in Parita, even though the drive took three hours. (Fortunately, while we were there a new toll road opened from Jaco to San José mercifully shortening the return trip to the airport by an hour. A municipal airport is a convenient few miles from Del Pacifico for private planes and charters.)
The comfortable three-bedroom Casa Mono Loco ("crazy monkey house") quickly became our home-away-from-home – especially the pool, where we all dove in to cool down and relax after day-long excursions of sight-seeing, deep sea fishing, shopping, dining, surfing (well, attempts at it), sunning, golf and zip lining through the trees at 60 miles per hour. Since motorists, motorcyclists, bicyclists, pedestrians and even crocodiles share the highway in this area, we decided a seasoned local driver was necessary to get us around safely.
Sightseeing
A favorite of our group was the Manuel Antonio National Park, where guides with binoculars point out camouflaged sloths, white-faced (chapuchin) monkeys high in the trees and nesting scarlet macaws, yellow parakeets and bright, color-banded parrots. The jungle grows right up to the high-tide line of white sandy beaches, popular weekend outing spots for Costa Ricans.
Beyond the park, up a climbing, snaking road is “Restaurant Row” (that’s what I call it), where all eateries on the ocean side offer breathtaking views of catamarans, sailboats and waves crashing on the rocks far below. We first sampled appetizers (nachos, ceviche, jumbo shrimp cocktails and “umbrella drinks”) at a small establishment, then drove a few hairpin-turn bends and enjoyed scrumptious paella (and more “umbrella drinks”) at El Avion and made a third stop, this time just for a few more “umbrella drinks,” before making our way to the beach…all with the purpose of fully appreciating the vistas, of course. Oh heck, we’re on vacation. Salud!
Fishing, Shopping & Dining
Quepos, just 30 minutes east of Del Pacifico, is a great place to purchase seafood brought in daily by local fishermen. While there, stop by Frenzy Sportfishing and charter a boat from owner Willy Jimenez. His accommodating crew of El Capitan José, first mate Marcos and assistant Will helped us hook and then supervised as we reeled in (and then set free) three sailfish and two dorado (for mahi-mahi fillets). Unforgettable: Our boat passed a school of dolphins that playfully raced us, jumping and leaping and splashing, some at fingertip’s reach. Magnificent.
From typical souvenir shops to women’s swim boutiques to artisan stands, the town of Jaco, about 30 minutes west from Del Pacifico, offers a wide selection of stores up and down its lively streets. (I started my Christmas shopping, with fringed scarves for the women on my list and Costa Rican-grown coffee for the men.)
Not to miss for dinner (or to book for another stay): Villa Caletas. The luxury boutique hotel has an exceptional hilltop location more than 1,150 feet above the Pacific, tropical Victorian architecture with a touch of Neoclassical influence, and superb food. (I had grilled mahi-mahi topped with grilled shrimp over a bed of saffron-touched rice and local lentils.) The atmosphere on the patio is romantic, with white table cloths, candles, and opera music wafting through the soft breeze. Arrive before 5:30 p.m. for drinks on Villa Caletas’ garden terraces to watch the dazzling sunset — and join in the applause afterward.
Golf & Zip Lining
At the Marriot Los Suenos Ocean & Golf Resort in Playa Herradura, we took on the jungle-lined golf course (with white-faced monkeys in the trees, probably mocking our game). Ceramic iguana wannabes mark tee-offs, while the real things sun about the grounds. Several restaurants line the marina here – more great options for lunch or dinner.
Through Los Suenos, make reservations for the nearby Los Suenos Canopy Tour, an exhilarating zip lining experience down a mountainside from 13 terracing platforms. If I weren’t a tree hugger before, I am now, as each time I landed on a platform, I grabbed the centering tree, holding on until the guides told me it was my time “to go.”
All that excitement led to an upset stomach. But I found the perfect remedy. Local fruit vendors sell baby coconuts. Cut off the top and slide in a straw (mini-umbrella swizzler, too) for a sip that soothes the tummy — and the soul.