the shoppe heads north

Longtime Houston kolache bakery rises in Kingwood with sweet and savory fare and dog-friendly patio

A Houston kolache staple has arrived in Kingwood. Kolache Shoppe opened its third Houston-area location at 4521 Kingwood Dr.

Open since 1970, Kolache Shoppe is known for its Czech-inspired, sweet and savory pastries that come with both traditional fruit toppings and a wide array of meat fillings. Seasonal specials — currently cranberry & cream and a Bacon Jalapeño Popper Sausage sourced from Blood Bros. BBQ — keep things fresh.

The Kingwood location is different from the Greenway Plaza and Heights bakeries in a few ways. Most importantly, it's Kolache Shoppe's first franchised outpost. Franchisees Jordan and Kristy Armendinger took their backgrounds in business administration and finance and applied them to owning a small business.

Photo by Carla Gomez

Kolache Shoppe offers sweet and savory pastries.

“As native Houstonians, we grew up with kolaches,” Kristy Armendinger said in a statement. “Whether on a lazy weekend morning or heading to school, we always found our way to Kolache Shoppe. We look forward to sharing our love for our favorite Texas breakfast while becoming an impactful part of the Kingwood community.”

The Armendingers have made a couple of tweaks to their menu to suit local tastes. Briskets come from Humble favorite Tin Roof BBQ, and locally roasted Geva Coffee has been substituted for the Boomtown blends served inside the loop.

In terms of design, the 1,200-square-foot space looks like the Heights shop. Blue and white wallpaper mimics the bakery's logo, and a dog-friendly patio allows for a limited amount of dine-in. A soon-to-be-installed takeout window will expedite to-go service.

“We’re thrilled to see the next chapter of Kolache Shoppe unfold,” added Kolache Shoppe co-owner Randy Hines. “In the bakery’s sixth decade of operation, we look forward to serving a broader market, as well as providing the Armendingers and others the opportunity to grow with us as we introduce Czech kolaches, made with what I believe is the best kolache dough in the Houston area, to the Kingwood community.”

openings news-you-can-eat

firing up Montrose

New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

“My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

“Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

“It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

“We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.