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    new from neo

    Top Houston chefs drop the needle on their new sushi restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 5, 2024 | 5:37 pm

    The team behind one of Houston’s most acclaimed omakase restaurants will soon open a new sister concept with a more affordable price point. Comma Hospitality, the restaurant group known for its luxurious sushi restaurant Neo, will open Kira in Upper Kirby’s Shops at Arrive River Oaks development this Tuesday, August 6.

    While Neo is known for its multi-course tasting menu that combines nigiri and hot items, Kira will be a more casual restaurant devoted to hand rolls (temaki), Japanese rice bowls (donburi), and Japanese shaved ice (kakigori). Those dishes will be paired with a beverage program centered around highballs, sake, champagne, and seasonal cocktails made with Japanese spirits.

    “We wanted to do something that’s a little more approachable and fun, more everyday. A place a consumer can go on a daily or weekly basis,” Comma Hospitality managing partner Jeremy Truong tells CultureMap. “It combines our interest in music and design into a restaurant.”

    Japanese record bars provided much of the inspiration for Kira’s design. Truong notes that Comma Hospitality chef-partners Luis Mercado and Paolo Justo have made multiple trips to Japan as well as to establishments like Mexico City’s Tokyo Music Bar. An ultra high end McIntosh turntable will power the restaurant’s soundtrack, which will draw upon a carefully curated selected of Japanese vinyl that includes jazz and other genres, as well as American rock and hip hop.

    “We want [music] to be a reason for people come in,” Truong says. “You come for the hospitality, you come for the design, you come to hear this Japanese vinyl you’ve been dying to hear.”

    While Kira’s a la carte format will be different from Neo’s set progressions, the restaurant’s hand rolls will use similar ingredients to those used in Neo’s nigiri. At the more affordable end, diners will have options such as hand rolls made with ocean trout and Hokkaido scallops, or Hen of the Woods mushrooms. At the more luxurious end, signature Neo ingredients like Norwegian blue lobster and caviar will be utilized for hand rolls, while a donburi might feature A5 wagyu with shaved truffles. The menu also includes sashimi and crudos.

    Similarly, the kakigori will be made with an imported Japanese ice machine and will be topped with seasonal fruits. The opening menu includes a pandan flavor as well as raspberry with condensed milk.

    Chefs Mercado and Justo, who won Chef of the Year in the 2024 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, will oversee the menu’s development and assist with sourcing, Truong says, but the restaurant will be led day-to-day by chef Mark Wong, who worked with Mercado at Uchi. “We thought he’d be a super good addition to the team,” Truong says.

    For its cocktail menu, the Comma team worked with Marc Rodriguez, an alum of acclaimed New York City Korean restaurant Atomix — ranked No. 6 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list — and one of Punch’s Best New Bartenders of 2023. Choices include the 15 Step (applewood bacon washed tequila, yuzu, cucumber, and Yondu) and the All I Need (Suntory Toki, yuzu curacao, Campari, vermouth blend, and purple shiso), as well as Japanese-style high balls served from a dedicated highball machine. Kira’s beverage director, veteran Houston bartender Aaron Lara, has supplemented those creations with a tidy list of beer, wine, and sake.

    At just 15 seats, it will still feel intimate, just as Neo’s location inside Montrose’s Glass Cypress clothing boutique does.

    Kira isn’t Comma Hospitality’s only project under development. The group has been quietly transforming a house in the Heights into a location for another omakase restaurant. “We had plans of that being the follow up to Neo, but time and working with the City of Houston has delayed it,” Truong says.

    More details on that restaurant will be released once it’s closer to opening. For now, Upper Kirby diners have an intimate new eatery to look forward to.

    ----

    This article was originally published on June 4. It has been updated on August 5 with details and about the opening date, the record collection, the menu, and the beverage program.

    Kira restaurant rice bowl

    Courtesy of Comma Hospitality

    Kira will serve Japanese rice bowls.

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    New Year's greetings

    Chris Shepherd gives thanks for underrated wine and talented Houston doctors

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 2, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Sandlands wine bottles
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    I know my articles have been a bit scarce these past few months, and I owe you an apology. Life shifted in a big way. In September, my wife Lindsey was diagnosed with breast cancer, and our world narrowed, in the best possible way — to home, health, and the fight in front of us.

    The first and most important thing I’m thankful for is early detection and the city we live in. Having MD Anderson here in Houston is a gift I’ll never take lightly. Lindsey is doing great with treatment. She’s an absolute warrior, and this experience has a way of reframing everything. It forces you to look back, take inventory, and find purpose in both the good and the hard. Today, we’re focusing on the good.

    I love documenting delicious bottles, great bites, and the people we share them with. Every year, I scroll back through my photos to see if my drinking patterns have changed. The answer? A little, but not dramatically. That’s part of what makes wine so fascinating — it’s alive, always evolving, and so are we.

    Chablis and Sangiovese were heavy hitters in 2024 and carried right into 2025. But on the white side, I found myself diving deeper into Aligoté, Burgundy’s other white grape. While Chardonnay is the big dog, Aligoté deserves your attention. Think green apple, citrus, herbal, and floral notes, with bright energy and lift. The real bonus? You can drink Aligoté from top Burgundy producers at a much friendlier price point. It punches well above its weight and belongs on your table.

    I’ve also been blown away by Chardonnay from northern Oregon. Early mistakes with clones led to wines that never quite found balance, but producers committed to getting it right with different clones that did much better in cooler sites, with less oak and shorter barrel time. Barrels should be nurturing vessels, not seasoning agents. Producers like North Valley, Soter, and Alexana are making some of the best Chardonnay I’ve had in years, and I am here for it.

    This past year also brought new adventures, including a month-long stay in Healdsburg, California in July. With a Southern Smoke event and another trip already planned, we packed up the cats, rented a house, and lived somewhere else for a while. It was magical and something I hope we do again.

    While out there, my friend Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Vineyards, Sandlands) invited me to Lodi to taste what’s happening in that region. Lodi has long been known for bulk wine, but the story runs much deeper. Sitting just outside the Sierra Foothills, the region was shaped by massive geological shifts millions of years ago that helped it draw settlers searching for gold in the 1800s. They brought vines with them: Zinfandel, Syrah, and countless lesser-known varieties that are finally getting their moment.

    Zinfandel, genetically linked to Tribidrag (Croatia) and Primitivo (Italy), has been thriving there since the 1850s. After its boom in the early 2000s and an era of ultra-ripe, high-alcohol styles it lost some favor. But tastes change. What’s coming from Lodi’s old vines today is refined, balanced, and beautiful.

    “Think head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted vines — some 100 to 150 years old — producing wines that speak clearly of place,” Passalacqua tells me. His Zins sit around 14.5-percent alcohol, elegant and structured, a far cry from the 16-17-percent monsters of decades past.

    One of my newest obsessions is Old Vine Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1885. Traditionally a blending grape in southern France, here it shines on its own with bright red fruit and soft tannins — an incredibly crushable wine. If you love lighter Pinot Noir or Gamay, this will make you smile. Look for bottles from Sandlands, Turley, Lorenza, Birichino, and others.

    So here’s the takeaway, like always: break down the walls you’ve been drinking behind. Try something new. Aligoté and Lodi aren’t new but they don’t need to be. They just need people willing to make them cool again. Trust me, they’re delicious and deserving.

    And in the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia:

    Sandlands wine bottles

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world
    The heart has its beaches, its homeland and thoughts of its own
    Wake now, discover that you are the song that the morning brings
    The heart has its seasons, its evenings and songs of its own

    Happy New Year, team. Never forget to be kind and show love.

    chris shepherdwine
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