January’s dining adventures covered an array of cuisines and price points. They include two casual options — chicken tenders and pizza — alongside one of more than 20 courses from an omakase counter led by one of Houston’s most esteemed chefs.
Along the way, I visited the most ambitious barbecue restaurant to open in Houston in a while, a new sushi restaurant from an acclaimed chef duo, a posh new Italian restaurant in the Heights, and a seafood staple that will soon celebrate 40 years in business.
As a reminder, this list isn’t ranked. All of these dishes stood out for different reasons.
Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in January.
Barbecue tray and sides at Pinkerton’s Barbecue
Grant Pinkerton’s new barbecue joint is off to a strong start. I mixed a couple of old favorites — his slow-smoked brisket and slightly sweet glazed pork ribs — with one of the revamped sausages and the pork porterhouse, which held just the right amount of smoky flavor. Beef tallow fries arrived with the right balance of a crispy exterior and a fluffy interior. While the award-winning cheesecake had sold out for the day, that just gives me an excuse to go back again soon.
Trout roe at Oru
At this new restaurant in the Heights, Neo chefs Luis Mercado and Paolo Justo bridge the gap between the elaborate omakase they built their reputation on and the more casual a la carte service of their hand roll concept Kira. The trout roe, served with taiyaki and smoked hay butter, comes together in a delicious way, with the roe’s smokiness balanced by the slightly sweet fish cakes and the creamy butter. Best of all, at $25, it’s an affordable splurge that’s easily split between two people.
Crispy-skin tilefish at Sushi Horiuchi
A 20-plus course omakase can’t be reduced to one dish, but the tilefish that’s part of the progression at Sushi Horiuchi tells diners a lot about the new concept from Katami chef Manabu Horiuchi. Carefully sourced, expertly prepared, and utterly delicious, it demonstrates Hori-san’s years of training and the subtle lengths he goes to in order to delight diners. With just six seats, Sushi Horiuchi will likely be one of Houston’s toughest reservations to book, but it’s worth waiting for.
Pork Milanese at Hypsi
This comforting cutlet illustrates the well-executed Italian fare that chef Terrence Gallivan is producing at this new restaurant at the Hotel Daphne in the Heights. Crispy and juicy, the pork is topped with a salad of punchy dandelion greens that’s lightly dressed with a tangy buttermilk dressing. The hearty portion is easy to share, especially when paired with a house-made pasta or two.
Butter chicken ramen at Kitchen Rumors
Fusion may have fallen out of fashion, but that didn’t stop chef Jassi Bindra from having fun at this restaurant in the former Xin Chao space. Essentially a kicked-up tomato soup, the dish includes properly chewy ramen noodles, greens, and chili-spiced chicken breast. Order it as an entree for one or share it with friends as part of a deeper dive into the wide-ranging menu.
Salmon citrus salad at Relish Kitchen & Bar
My favorite salads have enough ingredients that each bite tastes a little different, yet everything still works together. This salad at Relish includes grilled salmon, orange, grapefruit, greens, cucumber, dried cranberries, toasted almonds, goat cheese, and a champagne vinaigrette. The result is bright acidity from the citrus, salt and creaminess from the cheese, a little crunch from the almonds, and a hearty enough salmon fillet that the dish is satisfying on its own.
Pan-roasted halibut at 55 Seventy and State of Grace collaboration dinner
We’re still several months from members-only wine club 55 Seventy opening its Houston location near Levy Park, but that didn’t stop a sold out crowd from dropping in for a collaboration dinner with River Oaks staple State of Grace. Roasted to a juicy medium and paired with a bacon-tomato consomme, the dish served as a welcome introduction to the kind of classic, straightforward cooking club members can expect from chef Josh Sutcliff and his team.
Knafeh pizza at Pizaro’s
Speaking of collaborations, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr teamed up with Pizaro’s co-owner Matt Hutchinson to turn the dessert — a customer favorite on Craft Pita’s brunch menu — into a Neapolitan-style pie. The dough’s mild flavor allowed the other ingredients, including crispy shredded phyllo dough, pistachios, an akawi cheese blend, and orange blossom–rose water syrup, to shine with a bite that’s salty (in a good way), creamy, and sweet. If only Nasr could find a way to bring it to Craft Pita’s menu full time.
Photo by Eric Sandler
Pinkerton's Barbecue's new location is off to a strong start.
Chicken tenders at Kokee Kitchen
Dak & Bop may have closed last year, but its replacement in the Museum District’s Parc Binz building is still serving well-executed Korean fried chicken. Available in both a classic Korean sweet and spicy sauce and a soy garlic with enough heat to protect against vampires, the oversized tenders are served hot and crispy. Note that tenders are 20 percent off every Thursday.
Campechana extra at Goode Co. Seafood
This Houston staple will celebrate its 40th anniversary later this year, which seems like as good an excuse as any to feast on its signature seafood cocktail. A little tart, a little spicy, and absolutely loaded with plump shrimp and sweet crab, it remains as compelling now as it was in 1986. If there were a Houston food hall of fame, the campechana extra would go in on the first ballot.
Cabbage with beef fat soubise at Casa Kenji
This new seafood restaurant in the former Andiron space has a lot to offer, including tuna that’s seared tableside, a range of sushi, and a compelling duck with mole. Still, it’s the roasted cabbage with a creamy beef soubise that stood out. Roasted over live fire, the charred cabbage has a subtle sweetness that’s balanced by the rich sauce. With cabbage popping up on other menus around town, it appears to be the vegetable of the moment.
