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    Nightlife

    Do you like your cocktails sweet? Here S'mores

    Marcy de Luna
    Dec 29, 2009 | 12:00 pm
    News_Marcy de Luna_The Grove_Citrus Christmas Martini
    Have a very merry Citrus Christmas at The Grove.
    Photo by Marcy de Luna

    With New Year's Eve approaching, I felt like it was a good time to break up the monotony of always ordering the same cocktail and try something new. Thus, I strayed from my old stand-by, vodka soda, and tried several innovative libations. The novelty cocktail is enjoying a resurgence and various venues are introducing some serious cocktail lists.

    This makes me wonder: Why are these drinks becoming so popular? Do they provide an escape from our everyday, ordinary lives? For the most part, I think it is just plain fun to walk up to the bar and order a beverage with the word "S’mores" in the title.

    Although I enjoy sweets as much as the next person, I am not what you would consider a “dessert” person. I tend to favor a bag of chips over a cookie, so it was a stretch for me to consume what I thought would surely induce a sugar coma. Yes, most of the drinks I tried are sweeter than what I would normally order, but none were overwhelming. There are no extempore mixtures here: At The Grove, a mixologist creates these crafty concoctions. At Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House, a team tests its brews until they come up with just the right recipe. It is "Chemistry 101" for drink connoisseurs. I was pleasantly surprised with the overall outcome of my adventure.

    I started off at The Grove with the Revolution Apple Martini. It is similar in taste to a Cosmopolitan. The name kind of says it all: It is sweet, yet crisp, and has a distinct apple-inspired flavor. The bright red color is reminiscent of the holiday season and the floating sliver of delicious honey apple is a bonus.

    I also sampled the Bubble Gum Mojito. Upon delivery, this drink looks like your classic mojito with no extra bells and whistles. That is, until you take a sip. The flavor instantly reminded me of the bubble gum snow cones I used to eat and love as a kid (although the color is not blue so no need to worry about the residual Smurf-colored tongues the old snow cones would leave). It tastes like a piece of Hubba Bubba and has made its way onto my list of favorites.

    On the other hand, I am not a huge fan of lemon-flavored drinks. I attribute this to one too many lemon drop shots back in my college days. However, in keeping with my theme of branching out, I decided to be audacious and try the Citrus Christmas. Made with local Meyer lemons and organic vodka, this drink is an evenhanded combination of sweet and sour. If, unlike me, you have no aversions to lemony drinks, this one is for you.

    I moved on to Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House where I tried the Acai Elderflower Martini. My friends and I have coined the Acai Elderflower as the “healthy” drink. No, it is not fat free, but the taste of fresh cucumber (two muddled and one slice on top) is as light and refreshing as the cucumber water you sip while relaxing at a spa.

    The Blackberry Ginger Cocktail is one of the more popular drinks at the bar so, of course, I had to try it. I took a giant sip and tasted pure bourbon. Yikes! Not my cup of tea; however, my friend, Suzy, once told me that bourbon enthusiasts don’t like their bourbon convoluted. A good bourbon should stand on its own. Although this drink comes filled with fresh blackberries, it keeps to the aforementioned rule. This drink was not for me, but it would make Suzy and other bourbon fans proud.

    Last, but certainly not least…the S’Mores Martini. Back in my days as a Girl Scout, I used to love making s’mores over a campfire, so I was really excited to try this martini. The flavor holds true to its name and did not disappoint. First, the taste of graham cracker (lined around the rim of the glass). Next, the taste of smooth chocolate followed by a slight marshmallow under note. Word to the wise: You can’t really taste the vodka also in the mix, but don’t confuse this cocktail for a dessert. It packs a punch.

    My wish this holiday season? That this martini would stay on the bar menu year-round.

    Dessert-like S'Mores Martini from Del Frisco's

    News_Marcy de Luna_Del Frisco's Tasting_S'Mores Martini
    Photo by Marcy de Luna
    Dessert-like S'Mores Martini from Del Frisco's
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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