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    The Year in Culture

    Houston chefs turn into celebrity spouses and I find a new partner

    Marene Gustin
    Dec 28, 2010 | 6:05 pm
    • Houston chefs do realize they're not celebrity spouses, right?
    • Whether it was L.J. Wiley or ...
    • Michael Dei Maggi or ...
      Photo by Gabe Canales
    • the Tesars team, chefs were jumping around all 2010.
    • It's oysters for New Year's Eve of course.
    • 2010 was a very good year — for drinking a lot of bourbon.
      Photo by Ralph Smith

    Hard to believe, but 2010 is almost over. It’s been quite a year here at Food for Thought, a year of eating, chef shuffles, new restaurant openings, gaining a dining partner and, um, gaining a few pounds.

    We started the year with classic grits, how to make ‘em and where to eat ‘em. Grits were the in gourmet comfort food, but hardly the last. It was a year of fabulous pot pies, Frito chili pies and just plain ol’ pies — the new cupcake for 2011 according to Rachel Ray.

    Oh, we also waxed poetic about plain-Jane Texas comfort eats like cheesy queso and biscuits and gravy. No wonder I gained a few pounds this year. Sigh.

    We also did wine tastings, sipped bourbon, sipped more bourbon and learned to make risotto with chef John Sheely of Mockingbird Bistro and discovered what real pirates ate. That wasn’t so pleasant. Something about maggots.

    There was also pub grub, how to stock a hurricane food closet, some insanely hot pepper sauce made in Stafford, football food and haute dog fights, brains for Halloween (braaaaains!) and even skinny ballerina bakers.

    It was a year that saw Houston get some national respect for our restaurants. Finally, critics on the East Coast realized Feast, Haven and Branch Water Tavern are culinary stars, glistening with duck fat in the food galaxy. Speaking of culinary stars, both Monica Pope and Bryan Caswell took turns on the telly. Though neither won the cooking competitions, they still did Houston proud.

    And speaking of chefs … was there something in the water here? Chefs were changing restaurants faster than celebrity spouses.

    Greg Lowry replaced Michael Kramer at Voice, Kramer found a spot at The Tasting Rooms, The Rockwood Room imploded, but talented chef Michael Dei Maggi took his knives to Caffe Bello — briefly — and then there was the sudden departure of L. J. Wiley from Yelapa Playa Mexicana.

    Wiley is thinking of opening his own place but in the meantime whipped up some awesome hot mustard mash for holiday gifts. (Yes, I scored some.) After departing *17, Chip Hight resurfaced with Blue Apron Caters, pairing food and cool venues for party throwers while Jason Gould, who had a really bad 2009, joined up with Cyclone Anaya’s in 2010 to spice up the Tex-Mex.

    There was the high profile closing of Scott Tycer’s Textile and Tesars disappearance in The Woodlands, although that last move left chef Jeramie Robison free to take over the restaurant at La Colombe d’Or and the Zimmerman’s new venture Zimm’s Little Deck.

    For me, the best part of the year was having my father move here. There’s nothing like an 81-year-old dining companion. Good thing I’d already discovered lunner because he likes to eat early. Dinner at four o’clock? Sure I’m up for it.

    I’ve dragged him to several tastings where he couldn’t believe the amount of food, eaten our weight in Tex-Mex and burgers and even had a few steaks. Sadly, he’s still a no-go for sushi and Indian food.

    Farmers markets and food trucks popped up like bluebonnets in springtime and specialty food markets abounded. Oh yes, 2010 was a great year for foodies in Houston. So raise a glass of holiday cheer this New Year’s Eve and give thanks for the food.

    I know I’ll be home with my typical carpet picnic of smoked oysters, pâté, cheeses and other nibbles. I’ll wash it down with a bottle of good Champagne as the Chihuahua veges out in front of the TV or, as Julia Roberts once said, “lie like broccoli.”

    And if you’re out and about, do be safe. You don’t want to miss out on 2011 when The French Cowboy’s long awaited PHILIPPE Restaurant and Lounge opens along with El Real Tex-Mex, the Bryan Caswell/Bill Floyd/Robb Walsh homage to vintage Tex-Mex set to unfold in the old Tower Theatre. Oh yeah, it’s gonna be a great new year for eating.

    Editor's note: This is the sixth in a series of articles CultureMap will be running this last week of 2010 on The Year in Culture. The stories in this series will focus on a key point or two, something that struck our reporting team about the year rather than rote Top 10 lists or bests of.

    Other The Year In Culture stories:

    Organic, sustainable, local: The words that now dominate food

    Demolishing the doldrums: Office towers somehow keep rising in Houston

    Less blockbuster, more indie surprises: A call for fewer Texas-sized art exhibits in 2011

    Forget The Social Network, it's all about keeping mom off Twitter

    On the store front: H-E-B's final plan for Montrose market has a neighborly attitude

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    YouTube star Mark Wiens gets a taste of Texas at iconic Houston steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 12, 2026 | 2:00 pm
    Mark Wiens Taste of Texas
    Mark Wiens/YouTube
    Mark Wiens and Houston influencer Steven Autry visited Taste of Texas.

    One of Houston’s most successful steakhouses is the star of a new clip on YouTube. In a video posted on Thursday, March 12, Mark Wiens visited iconic Houston restaurant Taste of Texas.

    Recorded in January, Wiens is a Thailand-based YouTube star with more than 11 million subscribers. He visited the steakhouse with Steven Autry, who operates the popular Houston’s Got Spice influencer account with his wife Christina.



    Over the 30 minute episode, Wiens explores everything that makes the almost 40-year-old restaurant so special. It includes a visit to the restaurant’s butcher shop to select the specific tomahawk ribeye and filet — all of which are Certified Angus beef that’s wet-aged for 45 days — Wiens and Autry will dine on. The video also illustrates how large the restaurant’s kitchen is, fitting for an establishment that seats over 300 people and regularly serves more than 1,000 diners per day.

    From there, Wiens visits Taste of Texas’ salad bar, where he’s impressed by both the quality of the produce and the variety of dressings and toppings to choose from. Once the steaks hit the table, Wiens and Autry rave about what they’re eating.

    “Oh wow. Extremely tender. And so even. No little tough bits, no gristle. It’s just smooth, buttery, cooked perfectly,” Wiens says about his filet. “That’s incredibly tasty,” he adds. They also sample a number of sides and desserts.

    After the meal, co-owner Nina Hendee guides Wiens and his son through some of the restaurant’s Texas history artifacts, including firearms and two doors from the Alamo.

    “It’s more than a restaurant here,” Wiens concludes. “It is a destination, an icon, delicious food, warm hospitality.”

    Wiens isn't the only YouTube star to visit Taste of Texas, which touts itself as the busiest, single location restaurant in Texas. Mike Chen, who has more than 4 million subscribers to his Strictly Dumpling channel, posted a video in December of his visit to the West Houston favorite.

    As Christina Autry notes in her Instagram post about meeting Wiens, they dined together at a number of Houston restaurants, including The Original Ninfa's, Cleburne Cafeteria, and Lankford Grocery. Stay tuned for videos from those meals.

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