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    The Year in Culture

    Houston chefs turn into celebrity spouses and I find a new partner

    Marene Gustin
    Dec 28, 2010 | 6:05 pm
    • Houston chefs do realize they're not celebrity spouses, right?
    • Whether it was L.J. Wiley or ...
    • Michael Dei Maggi or ...
      Photo by Gabe Canales
    • the Tesars team, chefs were jumping around all 2010.
    • It's oysters for New Year's Eve of course.
    • 2010 was a very good year — for drinking a lot of bourbon.
      Photo by Ralph Smith

    Hard to believe, but 2010 is almost over. It’s been quite a year here at Food for Thought, a year of eating, chef shuffles, new restaurant openings, gaining a dining partner and, um, gaining a few pounds.

    We started the year with classic grits, how to make ‘em and where to eat ‘em. Grits were the in gourmet comfort food, but hardly the last. It was a year of fabulous pot pies, Frito chili pies and just plain ol’ pies — the new cupcake for 2011 according to Rachel Ray.

    Oh, we also waxed poetic about plain-Jane Texas comfort eats like cheesy queso and biscuits and gravy. No wonder I gained a few pounds this year. Sigh.

    We also did wine tastings, sipped bourbon, sipped more bourbon and learned to make risotto with chef John Sheely of Mockingbird Bistro and discovered what real pirates ate. That wasn’t so pleasant. Something about maggots.

    There was also pub grub, how to stock a hurricane food closet, some insanely hot pepper sauce made in Stafford, football food and haute dog fights, brains for Halloween (braaaaains!) and even skinny ballerina bakers.

    It was a year that saw Houston get some national respect for our restaurants. Finally, critics on the East Coast realized Feast, Haven and Branch Water Tavern are culinary stars, glistening with duck fat in the food galaxy. Speaking of culinary stars, both Monica Pope and Bryan Caswell took turns on the telly. Though neither won the cooking competitions, they still did Houston proud.

    And speaking of chefs … was there something in the water here? Chefs were changing restaurants faster than celebrity spouses.

    Greg Lowry replaced Michael Kramer at Voice, Kramer found a spot at The Tasting Rooms, The Rockwood Room imploded, but talented chef Michael Dei Maggi took his knives to Caffe Bello — briefly — and then there was the sudden departure of L. J. Wiley from Yelapa Playa Mexicana.

    Wiley is thinking of opening his own place but in the meantime whipped up some awesome hot mustard mash for holiday gifts. (Yes, I scored some.) After departing *17, Chip Hight resurfaced with Blue Apron Caters, pairing food and cool venues for party throwers while Jason Gould, who had a really bad 2009, joined up with Cyclone Anaya’s in 2010 to spice up the Tex-Mex.

    There was the high profile closing of Scott Tycer’s Textile and Tesars disappearance in The Woodlands, although that last move left chef Jeramie Robison free to take over the restaurant at La Colombe d’Or and the Zimmerman’s new venture Zimm’s Little Deck.

    For me, the best part of the year was having my father move here. There’s nothing like an 81-year-old dining companion. Good thing I’d already discovered lunner because he likes to eat early. Dinner at four o’clock? Sure I’m up for it.

    I’ve dragged him to several tastings where he couldn’t believe the amount of food, eaten our weight in Tex-Mex and burgers and even had a few steaks. Sadly, he’s still a no-go for sushi and Indian food.

    Farmers markets and food trucks popped up like bluebonnets in springtime and specialty food markets abounded. Oh yes, 2010 was a great year for foodies in Houston. So raise a glass of holiday cheer this New Year’s Eve and give thanks for the food.

    I know I’ll be home with my typical carpet picnic of smoked oysters, pâté, cheeses and other nibbles. I’ll wash it down with a bottle of good Champagne as the Chihuahua veges out in front of the TV or, as Julia Roberts once said, “lie like broccoli.”

    And if you’re out and about, do be safe. You don’t want to miss out on 2011 when The French Cowboy’s long awaited PHILIPPE Restaurant and Lounge opens along with El Real Tex-Mex, the Bryan Caswell/Bill Floyd/Robb Walsh homage to vintage Tex-Mex set to unfold in the old Tower Theatre. Oh yeah, it’s gonna be a great new year for eating.

    Editor's note: This is the sixth in a series of articles CultureMap will be running this last week of 2010 on The Year in Culture. The stories in this series will focus on a key point or two, something that struck our reporting team about the year rather than rote Top 10 lists or bests of.

    Other The Year In Culture stories:

    Organic, sustainable, local: The words that now dominate food

    Demolishing the doldrums: Office towers somehow keep rising in Houston

    Less blockbuster, more indie surprises: A call for fewer Texas-sized art exhibits in 2011

    Forget The Social Network, it's all about keeping mom off Twitter

    On the store front: H-E-B's final plan for Montrose market has a neighborly attitude

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    hello himari

    Growing Houston hospitality group rolls into Briargrove with new sushi spot

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 15, 2026 | 3:00 pm
    Himari restaurant Briargrove
    Photo by Studio Rivera
    Himari offers sushi, skewers, and more.

    Duckstache Hospitality has taken another step in its quest to bring sushi to every neighborhood in Houston. The group announced plans to open a second location of Himari, its neighborhood sushi concept, in Briargrove.

    Slated to open in later 2026 or early 2027, Himari has claimed a former bank building at 6414 San Felipe St as an addition to its current location in the Stomping Grounds development in Garden Oaks. It’s the latest project for the group, which includes Kokoro, Aiko, Doko, Bar Doko, and an ever-growing number of its hand roll concept Handies Douzo.

    Designed as a family-friendly Japanese restaurant, Himari serves a broad selection of sushi — including sashimi, nigiiri, and maki — crudo, donburi bowls, and robata. Part of the dining room will have drapes capable of making it a private event space.

    Duckstache is working with Houston’s Gin Design Group and and architect SDstudio to transform the 4,500-square-foot space. Overall, the design will be inspired by Japanese Rural Modernism, according to press materials, with details that include wood ceilings, indigo accents, dark terrazzo floors, and an open sushi kitchen.

    The restaurant is expect to seat about 110 people, including a 15-seat sushi bar and a 9-seat cocktail bar. That will make it Duckstache’s largest restaurant to date.

    “We wanted this second Himari to feel like a natural evolution of the original — still casual, approachable and welcoming, but with more room for people to gather and make it their own,” chef and co-owner Daniel Lee said in a statement. “And the fact that we’re taking over a former bank makes it even more fun, we’re finding creative ways to preserve some of the character of the original space while giving it a whole new life as Himari.”

    Himari restaurant Briargrove

    Photo by Studio Rivera

    Himari offers sushi, skewers, and more.

    himari sushinews-you-can-eatopenings
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