Foodie News

Wild things: A night of eating dangerously at Hotel ZaZa

Beef carpaccio
Farm-raised pheasant breast
Broken Arrow Ranch antelope

Anyone who complains hotel restaurants are ghost towns hasn't been to the Monarch at Hotel ZaZa lately.

By 6 p.m. the bar is already buzzing — it's neighborhood night, when drinks and appetizers are $5 — and people are taking advantage of what might be the last night of warmth for some spaceheater-fueled patio time.

But new executive chef Adam West isn't satisfied. He spent two years at Dragonfly, Monarch's Dallas counterpart, convincing the equally chic clientele to venture past the Texas standards — steak, chicken and lots of seafood — to try the alternative proteins he champions.

"It took two years in Dallas to get people to order different things. It's been two months here, so it's a process. We're trying to find a balance between giving people want they want and expect and doing things that are a little different," West says.

I started with the prime beef carpaccio and the Niman ranch pork belly. The carpaccio is an easy sell and tastes fabulous — the beef is sliced ultra thin and seared on both sides, then topped with red onion, cilantro, queso fresco and lime vinaigrette, offering a perfect combination of fresh crunch and rich beef flavor. I could eat it every day.

Slightly less impressive was the Niman Ranch pork belly, served in a big cube with chicharones. Compared to the version perfected by Catalan's Chris Shepherd, it's a nice flavor but a little chewy.

I take West's advice and try the antelope, sserved sliced over a sweet potato puree mixed with marshmallows — West calls it candied yams. The antelope is nothing short of a revelation. It's tender and flavorful, with not even a hint of gamey texture.

West explains that's because Monarch sources it from Broken Arrow Ranch, where they desanguinate the animal immediately after it's killed in the field, allowing no time for the meat to harden. The candied yams are a little too sweet for my taste (I'm not a big fan of the Thanksgiving version either), but it's a perfect foil when combined with the bitter turnips and microgreen salad on the plate.

I was also a fan of the pheasant breast. Infinetely more interesting than chicken, it practically falls off the bone. The truffle mashed potatoes on the side complemented it well and resisted that overly sweet truffle flavor. (Those not into truffles could try it out on another day, as the flavor rotates daily.)

For dessert I can't resist a ZaZa favorite — the slice of ice, a version of cookies and cream ice cream on steroids, with a crumbly chocolate cookie crust and just enough chocolate and caramel sauce drawn on the plate. The ice cream tastes light and actually icy — no cloying sweetness here — for the perfect end to a meal.

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Where to eat on New Year's Eve

16 Houston restaurants serving fantastic feasts on New Year's Eve

Photo by Shane Dante, courtesy of Artisans

The French restaurant offers a six-course dinner to ring in 2025.

Those looking for New Year’s Eve revelry in Houston don’t have to look too far. Restaurants throughout the city are offering a variety of dine-in options to help Houstonians ring in the new year. Whether it’s a fancy feast or an intimate date night for two, here are some of our recommendations.

Amrina
The chic Woodlands spot offers a six-course New Year’s Eve’s dinner, with seatings at 4 pm and 8:45 pm. Entertainment begins at 7 pm and a midnight champagne toast will be included for the later seating. The early seating is $125 per person; the later seating is $150. Optional add-ons include wine pairings, caviar, and wagyu. Reserve online.

Artisans
Ring in the New Year with an elegant, six-course pre-fixe dinner, available from 5-10 pm. Select from gourmet creations like Le Foie Gras au Torchon et Pot de Crème, lobster and salmon with chantilly sauce, and a tender filet de boeuf rôti Rossini. Dinner also includes dessert and a celebratory champagne toast. The cost is $189 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Reservations can be made online and require a credit card.

Aya Sushi
The restaurant offers 50 percent off select bottles of wine and sake to celebrate the new year. While the restaurant’s regular menu will be available, patrons can also opt for the winter omakase menu, which is $159 per person. Make reservations online.

Little's Oyster Bar
In addition to its a modified version of its regular menu, the upscale seafood restaurant will offer a six-course, $175 per person menu. The progression starts with raw oysters, Red Royal shirmp, and lobster bisque. Continue with white truffle pappardelle before choosing either yellow edge grouper with black eyed peas or beef filet with mashed potatoes. Finish with chocolate cremeux.

The Lymbar
Chef David Cordúa has created a shared dinner for two to ring in 2025. For $240, a couple can share caviar "oreos," squid ink blinis with DR Delicacy osetra gold mascarpone, and chives; plantain chips with chimichurri sauce; spaghetti carbonara; lobster roll "Twinkies" accompanied by a lobster bisque shooter; a rib roast served family style with horseradish cream, leek fondue potatoes, pesto green beans, and wedge fries; tres leches; and sticky toffee pudding. The meal also includes a Champagne toast. Two seatings are available, one at 6:30 pm and one at 8:30. Call 713-485-6230 to reserve or book online.

Marmo
The Italian chophouse in Montrose has a special four-course prefix dinner for New Year’s Eve. Select from items such as wagyu carpaccio, lobster salad, squid ink campanelle, lasagna, branzino roulade, New York strip, roast duck, and more. The early seating, 5:30-8 pm, is $129 per person; the late seating, 8:30-11 pm, is $159. An optional wine pairing add-on is available for $35. Those who book a patio table receive a complimentary bottle of bubbles. See the full menu and reserve online.

Milton's
Head to Rice Village for a five-course, $135 menu of Italian fare. The menu includes heart of palm salad with shaved fennel; Sicilian "tar tar" with tuna, salmon, and scallops; oyster duo; lobster risotto; grilled branzino; and porchetta. Finish with dessert. Add caviar and vodka for $99 and wine pairings for $75.

Perry’s
All locations of the swanky steakhouse will be open on New Year’s Eve beginning at 4 pm. The Standard Prixe Fixe Menu has three courses, including choice of starter, entree, and dessert, for $89 per person. The Rare and Well Done Prix Fixe Menu includes a choice of starter, salad, entree, and dessert and is $149 per person. Choose items such as lobster bisque, wedge salad, an eight-ounce filet, Perry’s famous pork chop, pumpkin cheesecake, chocolate crunch tower, and other selections. See the full menu and reserve online.

Postino
The chic wine bar offers its Boujee Board & Bottle on New Year’s Eve from 5 pm to midnight. The cost is $50, for the board of bruschetta and bottle of Millesimato Pas Dosé Brut premium bubbles. Festive dress encouraged. Reservations suggested.

Roka Akor
The Upper Kirby steakhouse and sushi establishment has a special New Year’s Eve five-course menu for $135 per person. Enjoy options such as yellowtail sashimi with poached ponzu garlic and serrano, lobster tempura, and prime filet served with truffle miso butter, grilled fingerling potatoes, and shiso chimichurri. Reservations available online.

State of Grace
Ring in the new year with a special four-course, prix fixe menu for $195 per person. Menu highlights include yellowfin tuna crudo, Crescent Valley duck, diver scallops, and delicious desserts. Wine pairings are available for $65 or $115. See the full menu here. Reserve a spot online.

Street to Kitchen
Join James Beard Award-winning chef Benchawan Jabthong Painter for a five-course menu with pairings by Meticulous Spirits Vodka and Texas-based winemaker Adega Vinho. It's priced at $120 per person.

Tavola
The Italian restaurant's four-course prix fixe menu features dishes like Cinderella Scallops, uovo en raviolo, and Beef Wellington with porcini mushrooms. The cost is $105 per person. At midnight, there will be complimentary champagne, grapes symbolizing prosperity, and a live pasta cooking demonstration on the patio serving freshly-made cacio e pepe to all guests. The restaurant is open from 4 to 11:30 pm, with limited food service after 10. Reservations are available via OpenTable or by phone.

Traveler’s Table
Dine around the world without leaving Houston with a three-course prix fixe menu consisting of a small plate, entree, and dessert. The cost is $85 per person, plus tax and gratuity. A complimentary champagne toast will be served at midnight, and a DJ spins tunes into 2025. Reservations can be made via Resy.

Turner’s Cut
An opulent New Year’s Eve four-course, pre-fixe menu is available for $295 per person. Choose a starter such as foie terrine, king crab, or wild mushroom tart, followed by lobster ravioli, pan-seared scallops, or agnolotti. Entree selections include American Wagyu tenderloin, halibut, lamb chops, or white wine truffle risotto, and dessert choices are gateau Marjolaine, crème fraiche cheesecake, or cran-apple tarte-tatin. Reserve via OpenTable.

Uchiko Houston
Enjoy an omakase dinner to close out 2024 and welcome in 2025. Dinner begins with seasonal fruit and includes selections like caviar service, a two-piece nigiri course, Ora King salmon, New York strip, and a cheese course. The cost is $400 for two. Reserve online.

Photo by Shane Dante

Artisans offers a six-course dinner to ring in 2025.

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