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    Vegging Out

    Wowing meat lovers with vegan food: A true radical uses niceness

    Joel Luks
    Dec 7, 2010 | 11:51 am
    • Making colorful foods and presenting them creatively is key in putting a menutogether for any special diet.
    • Getting a tutorial from Staci Davis from Radical Eats on tamale making wassomething I could not pass up.
    • Filled puff pastries work great for formal events.
    • Wild maitake crepes with thai green curry sauce is a favorite and a specialty atRadical Eats.
      Radical Eats
    • The best part: tasting these little guys.
    • Staci was not shy about putting me to work. Although tamales are time consuming,it is a great activity to get everyone in the kitchen.
    • When folding, remove any extra masa.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • The finished tamales are rich, sassy and spicy.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Fill the tamales generously on the thin layer of masa.
      Photo by Joel Luks

    I don’t have many stable routines, but the ones I do, I seem to follow quite faithfully, when it’s convenient.

    Saturday mornings are always quite lovely when I get up early enough to make my pilgrimage to Urban Harvest Farmers Market at Eastside in search for my vegan sustenance for the day. The vendors to whom I owe my survival happen to be in close proximity to one another. When I have time, we gossip about things past (or the lady who failed to bring her own reusable, recycled and eco-friendly bag), when I am late (fashionably of course), I grab, pay and bolt.

    I would imagine by now that most readers of this column would be quite aware of my tumultuous love affair with carbs. My religious-like weekend pilgrimage always begins with Sinfull Bakery’s latest creation, whether it happens to be a pumpkin cinnamon roll or an arugula kolache.

    I then sidestep, gracefully and gaily, over to Radical Eats where owner and chef Staci Davis skillfully up sells me more than my needed share of vegan tamales.

    Like it’s possible to have too many tamales.

    “Do you have any pork tamales?” a cute lady, short and somewhat stocky, sporting a baseball cap and impeccably too much makeup, inquired.

    I rolled my eyes wondering if she had noticed the sign: A fork poking a tomato. No pork to be found here, lady.

    Staci caught my reaction, smiled and proceeded to implement the vegan bait-and-switch with utmost professional dexterity.

    “No, I do not,” Staci replied. “But I do have this.”

    She handed the lady a robust morsel of something wrapped in masa. The pork seeker ate it joyfully and let out a high pitched squeal in delight, serendipitously sounding somewhat like, well, a pig.

    Whatever she sampled was a hit as she filled her reusable bag with Staci’s Radical Eats.

    At first, I was plenty tickled that a vegan treat had satisfied the needs of someone seeking swine. But then, my primal instincts kicked in when I feared that she would purchase too many and deplete the available stock. She was invading my territory, a threat I do not take lightly.

    Breathing a sigh of relief as I tiptoed above her cap to witness a healthy food supply, I realized this would not turn into an unruly incident.

    I bet it feels good when the vegan tamale line is much longer than the meat.

    Curious, Staci does not use the word vegan in her sign.

    “I have come to the conclusion that vegans will find me and I don’t think of my food as vegan,” Staci justified. “It’s just great food, filling and satisfying that happens to be free of animal products.”

    Perusing Staci’s offerings I took with me a spinach and corn tamale, a breakfast tamale with eggless migas and sage masa, a caramelized onion and mushroom tamale on sesame-rosemary masa wrapped in a banana leaf and a chipotle black bean tamale.

    “I had tried to make tamales before,” Staci explained. “They weren’t quite right. So I researched. When you don’t provide good food, any business will fall apart.”

    During a trip to Guatemala, Staci learned from a local to make masa with potato.

    “It got me thinking about putting vegetables, herbs and spices in the masa to enhance the taste,” Staci recalled. “They were an instant hit.”

    My mouth was full. I had just stuffed a piece of the chipotle black bean tamale in it and was experiencing a burst of piquant jubilee. Thankfully, I was able to prevent a lady pig-like squeal like the one I had just witnessed.

    Radical Eats debut in 2008 started with a sassy watermelon gazpacho, made with local watermelons, cucumber, onion, bell pepper, celery and balsamic vinegar, at what was then called Bayou City Farmers Market. It was the beginning of a series of cold summer soups like pecan gazpacho with muscadine grapes, peach and cherry soup.

    But winter was coming, so the Radical Eats vegan tamale was born out of inventive necessity and scarcity.

    Amen and hallelujah.

    Staci is a chef first, vegan second.

    “All my jobs have been in the food industry," she says. "I have always loved food and remember instances of eating a whole bucket of fried chicken in one sitting. I was infamous for my ginger bread pancakes at a cafe in Austin. After working as a grill line cook, i wanted to experiment with gourmet foods so I began supplying hand-made pasta for a restaurant at the time owned by the Chuy’s group.”

    While working for BFD Productions in Austin, Staci had the opportunity to cater for a number of vegetarian and vegan rock stars including 10,000 Maniacs, Psychedelic Furs, the Ministry and Love and Rockets.

    But at 29, it was breast cancer that turned Staci inside-out, forced her to reevaluate options and turn away from becoming a corporate suit.

    “I went through chemotherapy, radiation and surgery," she says. "It was a life changing process where my whole body was sending electrical signals about death. My brain was all screwed up.

    “I knew I had to change as I learned more about processing of foods. It was Janice Blue from Go Vegan Texas that had the most influence in me, so I started cooking vegan. I didn’t want to go through cancer treatment again.”

    It is not uncommon for the journey into veganism to start with a life altering experience. Often, it is the search for healthier options that one finds contemplating an animal-free diet.

    “And it can be quite filling, even for meat eaters,” Staci says.

    Curious me, in the midst of planning a series of holiday fetes, I sought her advise on how to best satisfy non-vegans with vegan food.

    “Easy,” Staci replied. “Do this.”

    Start with your budget

    • Choose foods familiar to vegans, vegetarians and meat-eaters alike
    • Choose filling options with lots of protein from nuts and beans
    • Decide on the format. Will it be formal? Buffet? Casual? Cocktail Party?
    • For formal events, try things like filled puff pastry and fillo dough, crepes, high end pastas, bisques and soups
    • For informal events try tamales, chili, cornbread, enchiladas, stuffed mushrooms, stuffed jalapenos, mac and cheese (made with cashew cheese)

    And you can try making these:

    Black Bean Chipotle Masa

    • 2 cups tamale masa maseca
    • 1 cups hot vegetable stock
    • ¾ cup canola oil
    • 2 teaspoons sea salt
    • 1 teaspoon baking powder
    • 1 small chayote squash
    • 2 chipotle peppers (Chipotle in Adobo) or more as desired

    Combine chayote squash and chipotle peppers in a food processor until pureed. You may have to scrape the sides of the bowl a few times to accomplish the desired consistency. Set aside.

    Place the Masa in a mixer on low. Add the hot vegetable stock and mix well, stopping to scrape the bottom of the mixer. Add the oil, salt, baking powder and chipotle pepper chayote mixture. Combine until a silky homogenous consistency is reached. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

    Black Bean Chipotle Filling

    • 1 small onion roughly chopped
    • 1-15 oz can black beans, drained and rinsed
    • 2 chipotle peppers (Chipotle in Adobo) or more if desired
    • 1 teaspoon sea salt
    • Corn husks soaked in water

    Place all the ingredients (minus the husks) in a bowl and mix with an immersion blender ensuring you leave some homey chunks of beans still intact. You can also use a food processor.

    Spread about 1/4 cup of masa in a corn husk in the shape of a large rectangle. Press the masa really flat. Scrape off the excess. Add a strip of black bean filling that runs the length of the masa. Roll the tamale up in the husk.

    Steam for 30 to 45 minutes. You can also wrap several tamales in foil.

    Joel Luks offers vegan recipes, reviews and opinions at www.vegangoodeats.com

    Watch Staci Davis give a tutorial on how to make her vegan chipotle black bean tamales:

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    Where to Eat Brunch Now

    10 Houston restaurants spicing up brunch with fresh new flavors

    Brianna Griff
    May 16, 2025 | 10:14 am
    Smoked Salmon Latke Kirsten Gilliam Okto Brunch
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    Okto's newly launched brunch features fresh dishes like this smoked salmon latke.

    Houston’s weekend routine just got a jolt of new flavors. From a Peruvian-Vietnamese mash-up to a Mediterranean feast in Montrose and a seafood-driven spread in Autry Park, a wave of both new and established Houston restaurants are rolling out fresh takes on everyone's favorite weekend indulgence. Whether it’s four riffs on eggs Benedict or savoring a foie-gras macaron while being serenaded by a violin, these 10 new options are delivering bold brunches with global influences and tipsy tinctures.

    Alora Restaurant and Bar
    Located in the former Kau Ba space in Montrose, this restaurant touts itself as Houston's only Peruvian-Vietnamese restaurant. For brunch, chefs and married couple Diego Ponce and Makala Ponce have created a menu that fuses the two cuisines — think Lima Hot Chicken and Pandan French Toast ($19) with aji limo pepper balanced by the sweetness of pandan. The Bò Né ($28) is a Vietnamese twist on steak and eggs alongside Comté cheese, pate, and tomatoes, while the salmon on crispy toast ($22) is crowned with guacamole, pickled vegetables, and a passion fruit vinaigrette. Beverages include the Alora Bloody Mary ($15) with pickled quail eggs and green mango. Alora serves brunch 11 am-3 pm on weekends.

    Smoked Salmon Latke Kirsten Gilliam Okto Brunch
      

    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

    Okto's newly launched brunch features fresh dishes like this smoked salmon latke.

    Chardon
    The Thompson Hotel's fine dining restaurant launched in February, transporting both guests and diners to France with its fare. Chardon has become a destination in its own right, and the addition of weekend brunch makes it even more appealing. Classics like Quiche Lorraine ($18) and Croque Monsieur ($32) sit on the menu alongside creations of delicate Lox et Crêpe with dill crème fraîche ($26) and the Avocado and Haricot Vert Tartine topped with a jammy soft-boiled egg ($17). The Bisous Tower ($23/person) proffers a selection of savory pastries and small bites like foie gras macarons and Texas cornbread madeleines. A violinist sets a soft soundtrack while patrons dine. Brunch is 11 am–3 pm on weekends.

    il Bracco
    The Galleria-area Italian spot just upgraded its weekend offerings with several new bites. Housemade pastries include zeppole with orange marmalade ($10), blueberry focaccia ($9), and an artichoke and arugula scone ($12). The weekend-only bucatini carbonara is now joined by shakshuka alla verde, the restaurant's riffs on eggs in purgatory ($19); frittata with with asparagus, goat cheese, tomatoes, and arugula ($17); and a mortadela sandwich on focaccia ($16). Pair them with a mimosa, espresso martini, or a breakfast martini with a little orange marmalade. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 11 am-3 pm.

    Maximo
    The West U. restaurant's weekend brunch offers a range of masa-based dishes. Consider egg Benedict that swaps the traditional English muffin for masa cornbread or cinnamon-sugar coated masa waffles that are topped with cheesecake whipped cream, Japanese peanuts, and agave syrup. Huevos ahogados, drowned in green tomatillo salsa, are served with a side of corn tortillas to soak up every bite of the mushrooms, greens, and Oaxacan cheese. Pair them with cocktails such as the Java-Horchata Flip (sake, coffee liqueur, horchata, whole egg, peanut chili crisp) and the Sangria Tango (tomatillo, cucumber, coriander, green chili, with the guest’s choice of agave or Mexican gin). Brunch is served on Saturday and Sunday from 11 am-3 pm.

    Melrose
    Created by CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Chef of the Year Emmanuel Chavez, the Montrose lounge serves clever riffs on enduring brunch favorites. Options include charred tomatillo chilaquiles with poached eggs, an acai bowl served in a half coconut, hanger steak with eggs and chimichurri, and a breakfast sandwich made with scrambled eggs, cheese, and brown sugar-roasted “billionaire’s bacon” on a brioche bun. The Melrose Tower channels New York's iconic Sadelle's restaurant with its house-cured lox, mini bagels, chive cream cheese, and accoutrements. Drink options include a spritz, Bloody Mary, and a michelada verde made with tomatillo juice. Brunch is served on Sunday from 11 am-3 pm.

    MF Lobster and Seafood
    The weekend spread at this Autry Park destination aims to elevate Houston’s brunch offerings. Think Benedicts made with silky hollandaise cascading over lobster, braised bacon, pork belly, or classic Canadian bacon (yes, that’s four varieties of the dish). The indulgence continues with wagyu steak and eggs, buttery Maine lobster popovers, and bagels and lox featuring Ora King salmon and roe. For the sweet tooth, choose a brioche pain perdu with caramelized apples and whipped maple mascarpone, or end the meal with a dark chocolate pot de crème. MF Lobster and Seafood serves brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 11 am-2:30 pm.

    Okto
    Sof Hospitality’s Mediterranean restaurant kicks off Sunday with a late-morning feast of fresh flavors such as pan con tomate salad with grilled sourdough and bruleed burrata ($20) and the rich notes of the beet-cured lox atop a potato apple latke ($22). Other highlights include an omelet with blue crab and mascarpone ($24) and a crepe Suzette ($16) accentuated with Grand Marnier, candied orange, and whipped ricotta. Okto’s spot at the trendy Montrose Collective boasts a spacious patio and ample underground parking (or valet). Brunch is served Sunday from 11 am-4 pm at Okto.

    Relish Restaurant and Bar
    The second outpost of this River Oaks staple opened in Memorial’s Town and Country Village at the end of 2024, but only added brunch to its repertoire at the end of April. Flaky herb biscuits ($9), buttermilk pancakes topped with brandied pecans ($15), and a salmon citrus salad with champagne vinaigrette ($24) are just a few of the dishes available. The Italian baked eggs ($18) in a pomodoro sauce with Italian sausage and grilled sourdough is a highlight of the menu. Diners can take advantage of all-day happy hour deals on select cocktails, beer, and wine, with a full espresso bar for those abstaining or still recovering from the previous night’s festivities. Relish serves brunch from 10 am-3 pm on weekends.

    Santé Lounge
    The Upper Kirby lounge’s patio is sure to be a destination for the posh set this summer. Santé's Sunday Funday Brunch features an elevated twist on classics like Dubai chocolate croissants, the grilled-to-order Santé burger with brioche, and a platter laden with five chilled seafood preparations. Patrons can listen as a live DJ spins tunes while relaxing on the patio with its cabanas, chandeliers, and greenery. Order the deviled egg trio (Nashville hot chicken, Tobiko caviar, and ramen egg) and sangria (with white or red wine) for the table. Brunch at Santé is from 12 pm-4 pm on Sunday, with a required dress code.

    Traveler’s Cart
    The Street Market Brunch is an international affair with cinnamon-dusted Morning Churros ($8), Chinese breakfast dumplings ($12) paired with a sambal-oyster-soy sauce, and charming fish-shaped Japanese taiyaki waffles ($9) with yuzu custard filling. Or dig into Turkish cilibir eggs ($15) seasoned with Aleppo pepper, smoked paprika, and za’atar oil. The global tour continues at the bar with "around-the-world" mimosas, a build-your-own Bloody Mary cart, and Don’t Stop the Carnival ($13), a punchy Brazilian coffee cocktail of rum, sweetened condensed milk, and toasted coconut. Traveler’s Cart serves brunch from 10 am-3 pm on Saturday and Sunday.

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