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    With Shmaltz

    Hay Merchant's first-ever beer dinner throws caution and decorum out the window

    Caroline Gallay
    Nov 14, 2012 | 10:38 am
    • The Hay Merchant
      Photo by Julie Soefer/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Enjoying Freaktoberfest
      Photo by Caroline Gallay
    • He'Brew Reunion with the beer dinner menu
      Photo by Caroline Gallay

    "Don't pass out, passover." Such is the motto of Shmaltz Brewing, a now 16-year-old label based in San Francisco and, possibly more notably, Hay Merchant's brewer of choice for its very first in-house beer dinner.

    Although Hay Merchant has collaborated with Underbelly to host beer pairings, the Shmaltz dinner was the first event helmed by Hay Merchant alone and drew some three dozen craft beer enthusiasts — and more than a few Texans fans who chose microbrews over television. Luckily, the crowd next door (led by Underbelly chef Chris Shepherd, who had the night off) was enthusiastic enough for those of us in the private dining room to deduce how our boys were doing.

    Shmaltz brews its beers one gallon at a time on a contract basis in a 175-square-foot brewery (one of the country's smallest before it was recently doused by Sandy).

    The five-course affair, curated by Hay Merchant's resident beer guru Kevin Floyd and chef Antoine Ware, presented small-batch brews from both sides of Shmaltz's bicoastal portfolio: He'Brew (the chosen beer) and Coney Island craft lagers, inspired by the last remaining freak show in America. Shmaltz owner (and author) Jeremy Cowan was on-hand for introductions, even sampling some brews for the first time.

    Shmaltz brews its beers one gallon at a time on a contract basis in a 175-square-foot brewery (one of the country's smallest before it was recently doused by Sandy). With pithy taglines and characteristic Jewish humor, Cowan and his staff have brewed some of the most celebrated brews around — including one U.S. Beer Tasting Championship Grand Champion, also on the menu Sunday night. And with names like Sword Swallower, Human Blockhead and Jewbelation, it's hard not to have fun.

    Instead of following the usual beer dinner track of light to heavy brews, Floyd threw caution — or at least reservation — out the window and followed a "peak" mid-meal, with an 8-percent brown ale, with a 16-percent American strong ale at the fourth course. The evening was not for amateurs.

    Although the 16-percent He'Brew Jewbelation "Sweet 16" was a literal high-point, brewed to honor Shmaltz's 16th year with 16 malts and 16 types of hops, a clear winner for me was the He'Brew Reunion, a heady, mole-reminiscent brew with cocoa nibs, vanilla, cinnamon and notes of coffee. Reunion is made from the same complex brown ale base each year with a different spice profile — this year's iteration a collaboration with Athen's Terrapin Beer Co. Many of the featured brews are on tap at Hay Merchant, and I suggest you get you some.

    It was the start of a big week for Hay Merchant. Next up is a full week of special keg tappings, culminating in a Real Ale total cask engine takeover on Friday — Hay Merchant's first cask coup. All five casks will be pouring Real Ale: Katz Coffee Porter 2012, 4-Squared, Brewers Cut Signature Series Hop, Lost Gold IPA and 15th Anniversary Russian Imperial Stout.

    For a full schedule of Hay Merchant's Houston Beer Week tappings, click here.

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    something for everyone

    New brewery pours into Houston with craft beer, cocktails, and homebrew

    Ralph Palmer
    Apr 10, 2026 | 12:29 pm
    Farmboy Brewing Company
    Photo by Ralph Palmer
    Farmboy Brewing Company is now open on N. Shepherd.

    The tides of craft breweries in Houston and across the country have shifted dramatically over the past five years, marked by closures and a clear softening of the once unstoppable boom, with names like True Anomaly, Elder Son, and Buffalo Bayou Brewing serving as recent reminders of how quickly the landscape can change. What is emerging in its place is a new phase that is far less rigid about labels and more focused on flexibility and meeting customers where they actually are.

    For Landon Weiershausen, that evolution is not guesswork. It's the entire business plan.

    After more than a decade running Farmboy Brew Shop and working across nearly every space of the beer supply chain, (hops to kegs to fruit) Weiershausen has stepped back into ownership with a new brewery. Farmboy Brewing Company (4816 N Shepherd Dr.) blends a taproom, full cocktail bar, and homebrew retail shop into a single, community-driven space. The location will be familiar to many craft beer fans, as it previously housed both North Shepherd Brewing and Astral Brewing.

    “It’s about giving people what they actually want when they walk in the door,” Weiershausen tells CultureMap.

    Weiershausen’s roots in Houston’s beer world stretch back to 2014, when he opened Farmboy Brew Shop, a go-to spot for local Oak Forest/Garden Oaks homebrewers looking for ingredients, gear, and advice. With the launch of Farmboy Brewing, that business still exists, but it’s now integrated into the new brewery.

    The move creates something unique in the world of Houston beer — a space where hobbyists, beer nerds, and casual drinkers can intersect. In the 9,000-square-foot space, customers can shop for grains and yeast then walk a few steps over and grab a pint or a cocktail.

    “The majority of people coming in for homebrew are also interested in drinking,” Weiershausen says. “Now they don’t have to choose.”

    Instead of fighting changes in the beverage industry, Weiershausen is leaning into diversification. His brewery operates with a mixed beverage license, allowing for a full cocktail program alongside beer, wine, non-alcoholic options, and THC-infused drinks. That last category, while politically contentious in Texas, represents what he sees as an undeniable shift in consumer behavior. Currently, Weiershausen is stocking a few verities of THC-infused offerings from Eureka Heights Brew Co.

    “There’s a huge market for it,” he says. “Whether people like it or not, customers are choosing those products over traditional alcoholic beverages."

    Rather than drawing lines between beer drinkers and everyone else, the goal is to make the space work for large groups that have diverse drink preferences.

    “If someone doesn’t drink beer, or doesn’t drink alcohol at all, we still want them to have options.”

    Despite the brewery name on the door, Weiershausen isn’t rushing his own beer to market. Instead, the tap list currently leans on guest kegs from local and regional breweries such as Great Heights, Spindletap, Saint Arnold, and Lone Pint. This decision is a deliberate move that buys time while new brewing equipment is installed and optimized. It’s a patient approach that prioritizes long-term quality over a fast rollout and reflects lessons learned from years inside the industry. In the meantime, the guest taps double as a nod to relationships that Weiershausen has built over many years.

    “A lot of these are people who took care of me over the years,” he says. “This is a way to return the favor.”

    Once the brewing program is rolled out in the next few weeks, expect the first batch of offering to include a West Coast IPA, Hazy IPA, Light Lager, and an American Wheat. The program itself will also be led by head brewer Steven Treleaven, formerly of Conroe’s B-52 Brewing.

    Weiershausen’s vision prioritizes education. The homebrew shop has always served as an entry point for teaching its customers more about beer, but the expanded space opens the door to something he describes as an “education escalator.” Plans include monthly workshops covering everything from brewing basics to off-flavor detection (a critical skill for anyone serious about improving their homebrew).

    Like most breweries, the space will feature familiar weekly staples including trivia nights, but Weiershausen is also looking to mix in less predictable programming. Think dance classes, themed events, and rotating concepts that go beyond the usual bingo-and-beer formula.

    On the food side, Weiershausen has chosen not to build an in-house kitchen. Instead, the brewery will host food trucks, including the return of fan-favorite El Alabrije, known for its Oaxacan-inspired menu.

    At its core, the concept reflects something bigger than one brewery. It’s a response to a changing market, a shifting customer base, and a city that’s never fit neatly into one category anyway. For Weiershausen, the path forward isn’t about choosing between beer, cocktails, or anything else. It’s about building a place where all of it works together.

    “We’re just trying to create something for the community,” he says. “Whatever that means for them.”

    ----

    Ralph Palmer is a co-owner of the Deckle and Hyde barbecue pop-up and a longtime craft beer enthusiast. Follow him on Instagram at eyefearnobeer.

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