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    Food for Thought

    Empty bottle moments: Recognizing what truly makes a meal memorable

    Marene Gustin
    Nov 2, 2010 | 3:00 pm
    • Empty Bottles of Wine is becoming a movement of memories.
    • Fleming's River Oaks was the site of my 81-year-old dad's most memorable mealever.
      Photo by Chris Conyers
    • It's not just the wine it's who you drink it with.
      Photo by Marene Gustin
    • It's all about the Empty Bottle Moments.
    • Beth Novak Milliken of Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, left, and SharonHarris of Rarecat Vineyards made one memorable meal.
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    Found this line in a book today:

    “Horatio dreamt, I assume, of memorable meals, for he was licking his whiskers in his sleep.”

    Kerry Greenwood was referring to a cat in her mystery Forbidden Fruit, but it got me to wondering what makes for a truly memorable meal for two-legged eaters, the kind we dream of in our sleep?

    And it come down to three things: Great food, good drinks and people. And the last is really the most important.

    Local chef and cookbook author Clive Berkman saves wine bottles from great meals and writes in his cookbook Creating Empty Bottle Moments: “For years, I’ve kept empty bottles that remind me of warm and wonderful times. Full bottles speak of possibilities, but empty ones tell great stories about couples celebrating an anniversary, parents enjoying a child’s birthday party, an engagement, a graduation and a hundred treasured moments.”

    I’ve been enjoying a lot of memorable meals of late, eating around town with my 81-year-old dad who has just moved here from Florida after my stepmother’s death. I know the loss has been hard for him, not to mention selling his home of 20 years and moving to a retirement complex down the street from me. But being able to share meals together on a regular basis has been a blessing to us both.

    And I swear, every meal we share he declares as the best meal he’s had since he’s arrived.

    Blanco’s is his go-to joint for burgers and cold Lone Stars, he loves the cheesy Jose’s Dip and ground beef tacos at Molina’s Cantina and he likes the Smashburgers, across the street from his new home. (We mostly eat out because he’s not really a fan of my healthy cooking, plus he loves to meet new people and will talk to anybody, owners and chefs I know and even total strangers at the bar at Blanco’s.)

    But we had a really memorable meal last week at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar in River Oaks.

    We sat down with whiskey and water (him) and a vodka martini extra dry (me) and dived into chef James Cole’s homemade rosemary sourdough bread, a meal unto itself. We ordered the Wicked Cajun Shrimp (shrimp being about the only seafood he’ll eat) and two small filet mignons.

    One thing I love about Fleming’s is the way they make steak. Chef Cole knows I like mine Pittsburgh style, charred on the outside and rare inside, yum. And dad, god love him, wants his cow browned through and through. Both arrived perfectly done at the same time. And, even though we’re not big eaters, dad also wanted to try the Fleming’s potatoes and the mac and cheese. Yes, I had a lot of leftovers. I still have some if you want to stop by for a steak sandwich.

    Both Cole and the lovely Maeve Pesquera came to the table and chatted with dad. And then his cell phone rang. It was my niece, and she wanted to be put on speakerphone when she found out we were dining together. I knew what that meant right away.

    “How do feel about becoming a great-grandfather?” she asked him.

    This darling young woman is my only niece and dad’s only grandchild. And now about to be the bearer of his first great-grandchild.

    And no, I am not old enough to be a great-aunt and have decided the child must call me Mimsy or Mame, or something equally eccentric.

    But, talk about a special meal. There were congratulations and celebrating and (in the interest of full disclosure, a comped meal) and yes, the food and drink were divine, but we will always remember this meal as the one when we found out about our newest family member.

    “This is the best meal we’ve had since I’ve been here!” declared dad.

    Dad wasn’t along last week when I had lunch at Haven, but that was also a meal I will remember.

    Beth Novak Milliken of Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery and Sharon Harris of Rarecat vineyards had invited some foodies to share their wines and promote women in the wine industry. And they did talk about business and pour their wines (loved the Spottswoode 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon and the Rarecat 2009 Sauvignon Blanc) to pair with dishes chef Randy Evans provided, but the meal turned into a girl gabfest that covered everything from drug laws and gun restrictions to immigration. They were smart and funny and fascinating.

    Even though I’d never met these two gals from Napa Valley, we had a blast. Great food, wine and companionship.

    When I asked Harris what advice she had for women wanting to get into the wine industry, this is what she said: “A great winemaker leaves her heart in her wine. You have to love what you do, otherwise it can be overwhelming.”

    Good advice for anyone. And that’s what really makes a memorable meal. Yes, great food and good drink, but it’s really about heart and soul, the sharing of breaking bread with those you love and those you’ve just met.

    I don’t know if I’ll lick my whiskers when I dream of these meals, but I do know that when I recall them, while awake, they warm my heart and make me smile.

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    What's eric eating episodes 513 and 514

    Beard Award-winning chef and family dish on their new Houston restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 21, 2025 | 1:43 pm
    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre
    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega, his wife and business partner Tracy Vaught, and their daughter Sophia Ortega join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss H-Town Restaurant Group. The company operates a number of local concepts, including interior Mexican restaurant Hugo’s, Backstreet Cafe, Mexican street food eatery Urbe, and Zaranda, the company’s newly opened restaurant in downtown that’s inspired by California.



    After a brief discussion of the early days of Hugo’s, the trio dives into the process of opening Zaranda. Vaught explains how she became aware of the space in the Norton Rose Fulbright Tower and why it’s proximity to Discovery Green made it particularly appealing. Chef Ortega shares how a three-week road trip throughout Mexico provided some of the inspiration for both Zaranda and Caracol, his Galleria-area seafood restaurant.

    From there, chef Ortega describes how the zaranda — a wire metal basket used to cook seafood over an open flame — anchors much of the menu. He also recommends some dishes diners should try when they visit Zaranda.

    Sandler asks Sophia Ortega what it’s like working with her parents. “I get that comment a lot. It is very different. A lot of people can’t imagine working with family,” she says.

    “For me, I’m an only child. We’re a very close family unit. The restaurants have been a huge part of my growing up. For us, it comes very naturally to work together. It’s all we know. I’ve only ever worked for my restaurants. A lot of the employees have seen me grow up. I think we all have our own lane, but at the same time we overlap. We’re always open to hearing different opinions. That’s when the best decisions are made. I love it.”

    “Sophia is very intuitive. The way she communicates is very thoughtful and sensitive. I think that’s so valuable for our staff. Everybody loves her,” Vaught adds.



    Listen to the full episode for an update on Backstreet Cafe. Its original building was torn down last year to make way for an all-new structure that’s on track to open next year — hopefully in time for its legendary Mother’s Day brunch. Sandler also asks about the restaurant group’s conspicuous omission from the Michelin Guide.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson, the proprietor of newly-open wine shop Montrose Grocer, discuss the news out of the week. They begin with a discussion about the Houston Chronicle’s list of the city’s top 100 restaurants, including a discussion of Aga’s as the No.1 selection, some of the new entries on the list, and restaurants that dropped off the list entirely, such as Himalaya, Kata Robata, and Killen’s Barbecue. They also talk about Bari Ristorante opening a new location in The Woodlands and restaurateur Brian Doke’s plans to open Lazy Lane restaurant in Garden Oaks.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Maison Chinoise. Located next to Brasserie 19 in the River Oaks Shopping center, the new Chinese restaurant is the latest project from Dallas-based Lombardi Family Concepts, known locally for Toulouse Cafe and Bar, its French restaurant in River Oaks District, and Lombardi Cucina Italiana in Uptown Park.

    Listen to the episode to hear which dishes they liked best, as well as the one that missed the mark. They also discuss its decor and how it will fit with the other luxurious restaurants in the shopping center.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega.

    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

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