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    Dig In

    Elevated classics populate the menu at retro-flavored Houston eatery

    CultureMap Create
    Oct 19, 2018 | 12:45 pm

    A no-rush, no-fuss meal is sometimes the most tempting one of all, and that's always what you'll find at The Classic.

    The new, retro-flavored restaurant in Rice Military used to be a location of Benjy's, but fans of the popular modern American eatery shouldn't be too sad about the change. Restaurateur Benjy Levit is behind both, and with help from chefs Mike Potowski and Maria Gonzalez is focusing on familiar dishes done exceptionally well.

    For those who've yet to pay a visit to The Classic, here are five items Levit says are a can't-miss.

    1. The comfort food
    Matzo ball soup is a classic home-cooked dish, and it's especially welcome heading into the crisp days of fall and the chilly days of winter. Since the restaurant opens at 10 am on weekdays and 8 am on weekends, comfort food can also encompass breakfast — try the Dutch Baby Pancake, served with lemon ricotta, pecans, berries, and maple syrup, or the steak and eggs, topped with herbed butter.

    2. Hearty entrees
    It takes a practiced eye to cook a perfectly done roast chicken, one that maintains its juiciness while developing an enticingly browned skin. The one here (served after 11 am) is crowned with market vegetables and salsa verde for a little extra kick.

    3. Solid sandwiches
    Who doesn't love a great grilled cheese? The Classic turns the staple up a notch with kosher salami, Hook's cheddar, and pickles, plus a surprise addition of pimento cheese. If a classic burger is more your style, this is the one to get: caramelized onions, Wisconsin American cheese, dill pickles, thousand island dressing, and a heaping side of fries.

    4. Those irresistible dumplings
    Mushrooms, dill, rye, hazelnuts, and creme fraiche combine to make an outrageously popular starter. Seriously, you'll want to order several helpings for the table — even if you're dining alone.

    5. Three-ingredient cocktails
    Just like with the food, there's a certain art to perfecting the classics. A roster of traditional sips focuses on the familiar, with sidecars, negronis, and old fashioneds populating the menu. But by using high-quality spirits and mixers (think Remy 1738 cognac and bonded bourbon), the drinks are as impressive as the meal.

    ---

    The Classic is located at 5922 Washington Ave. in Houston. Click here or call 713-868-1131 for reservations.

    Grilled cheese gets an upgrade with pimento.

    Grilled cheese
      
    Photo courtesy of The Classic
    Grilled cheese gets an upgrade with pimento.
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