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    Vegging Out

    Learning to make gooey cinnamon rolls at a vegan bakery that's really "Sinfull"

    Joel Luks
    Oct 10, 2010 | 2:34 pm
    • The infamous Texas-sized cinnamon roll: My new Frenemy
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Brittany Carnes of Sinfull Bakery
    • Getting a workout beginning to roll the cinnamon roll dough
    • Learning to feel the dough for the perfect thickness
    • The oatmeal raisin cookies that started Brittany Carnes's obsession withcreating Sinfull vegan baked goods
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Raina Willick, aka kolache lady, works on shaping the Czech-style kolaches.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Homemade organic blueberry jam filled each artful delicacy.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • A tray of blueberry-filled, Czech-style kolaches
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Prior to baking, the rolls rest to allow the yeast to rise.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Cinnamon rolls, right out of the oven
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • A lesson on vegan ingredients
    • Sinfull Bakery's muffins can be found at Whole Foods throughout Houston in thebaked goods case.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Not sure if I could pick just one, unless one of each is acceptable.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Chocolate Mint cookies. I snacked on these while waiting for the cinnamon rollsto bake.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • The pumpkin cream cheese loaf is light, moist and fragrant.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • A tray of apple butter-filled, Czech-style kolaches
      Photo by Joel Luks

    This is the story of a boy and his lifelong dedication to carbs. And by a boy I mean me, and by carbs I mean a herculean-sized cinnamon roll, the kind that elicits visions of a heavenly but mysterious ray of light that emerges out of an unknown divine source accompanied by a critically judgmental choir of angelic voices. Well, somewhat naughty angels whose foodie habits extend beyond bagels and light Philly cream cheese.

    Instead of being covered in dainty leftover crumbs, we are talking about sugary gooey goodness stuck under your fingernails begging to be sucked seductively, by yourself that is. “Sinfull.”

    What began as an innocent tweet announcing a batch of vegan cinnamon rolls with local pecans on their pilgrimage to Georgia’s Farm to Market near the Katy Freeway and Dairy Ashford, Houstonian Brittany Carnes, owner of vegan mostly local new-kid-on-the-block Sinfull Bakery, gastronomically teased me into committing an impulsive act of foodie debauchery: What usually takes four plus people to eat and share was selfishly devoured in record time by yours truly.

    My first encounter with Sinfull Bakery’s Texas-sized delicacies was during a routine trip to Urban Harvest Farmer’s Market at Eastside on a steamy and uncomfortable Saturday morning. While filling my reusable shopping tote with savory kale, fragrant basil, local pears, ripe figs and Pat Greer’s kombucha, a carb-happy spread of baked goods violated my peripheral vision and hypnotically allured me to say hello.

    I had heard rumors of new vegan bakers in town who preferred organic to conventional, who thrived on using mostly local ingredients and who also offered sugar-free and gluten-free creations.

    “I’m supposed to meet you,” I told Brittany.

    In the hustle and bustle of the morning market, I failed to hone in on her story as my eyes were feasting on the foodie cornucopia selfishly monopolizing my attention.

    Adding to my healthy produce, a farmer’s market kolache filled with organic veggies made it home with me, along with some double chocolate cookies and a pumpkin and cream cheese loaf. Right as I was about to leave, an additional traditional Czech-style strawberry cream cheese kolache with local figs mysteriously found itself in my company.

    I was a happy boy.

    After my cinnamon roll encounter, I wondered if Brittany would be so gracious as to show me how these are made. "These are not for the faint at heart,” she explained. “I’d love to see you try.”

    Working in a shared commercial kitchen off 610 West Loop and Bellaire, Sinfull Bakery’s myriad of products come from a seemingly small but passionate operation. Although future plans include a storefront, Sinfull goods can be found at Georgia's Farm to Market, Taft Street Coffee house, Urban Harvest Farmer's Market at Eastside and the Farmers Market at LaCenterra at Cinco Ranch in Katy.

    Starting a business is also not for the faint at heart. The idea of Sinfull Bakery started as a life interruption in between Carnes's college and graduate school journey. A two-year break filled with volunteering and environmental work was to be followed by course work to become a therapist.

    But like most with a entrepreneurial spirit, passion career changes often force sharp turns. After squeezing herself into an internship at a well known vegan bakery in Portland, Carnes packed her bags, and moved back to Houston.

    Sinfull Bakery started with the perfect oatmeal raisin cookie, and now offers dozens of different products. Whole Foods on Kirby, Sugar Land, Woodway, Wilcrest and Bellaire are carrying an array of Sinfull's muffins along with wheat-free and original cookie packages, wheat-free and original mini loaves, and jumbo sweet kolaches such as pumpkin pie, strawberry jam and cream cheese, and apple butter.

    Yes. Houston is a great place to start a business. Even a vegan one for that matter.

    “Taste this,” Brittany says as I walk in the kitchen. A dry erase board is filled with a melange of quirky inspirational and smart-ass quotes like “Don’t touch hot things” and “If it wasn’t scary, it wouldn’t be exciting.”

    I am fed a spoonful of a poppy seed jam. A new concoction for the next round of jumbo Czech kolaches, the filling changes frequently and strives to feature seasonal flavors. Subtly sweet with a playful texture, the poppy seeds remind me of the all-so-popular hamentashen. Will I get high? It’s going to be a good day.

    While getting a tour of the kitchen and pantry, I am introduced to David Stiles aka "cinnamon roll man" and Papa Sinfull, Raina Willick aka "kolache queen" and Craig Vanis, aka "stud muffin," and Carnes's father, Nick.

    “Joel is here to make cinnamon rolls,” Brittany tells the crew.

    I get a "you-poor-soul" look from Raina while David flashes me an evil good luck smile. What could be so difficult about rolling cinnamon rolls?

    I am handed a rolling pin and given instructions. There is a lot of dough. And that a-lot-of-dough needs to be stretched into an even tablecloth size spread over two stainless steel tables, by myself and by feel, touch and intuition.

    I get it.

    Towering at over 6-feet tall, David’s build makes rolling a simple everyday task. For my stocky 5’6” frame, I am challenged to find different angles to coach the dough into submission. And after two bottles of water, breaking a sweat and a slight break, I am successful. Sort of.

    Except my rectangle is not perfect. Some peninsula-like protrusions laugh audibly at me.

    “Not bad for a first try,” Brittany says.

    Brushing the vegan butter is an artful task enhanced by swift and flamboyant wrist movements. But nothing compares to the feeling of spreading the sugar, cinnamon and rum-soaked-raisin mixture with my bare hands. I, again, feel like licking myself.

    Rolling the monster becomes a rather hilarious task when I realize my newly washed hands are too small. A little roll here and another there turn into a rhythmic pattern. If only we had a disco ball and a strobe light.

    Using thumbs as a guide, I get about nine rolls that need to rise and then bake for a few.

    While baking, Raina and I share kolache flavor ideas. Dulce de leche? A patriotic red white and blue kolache with blueberry, raspberry and cream filling? Tiramisu? Time flies when you are talking food.

    I smell freshly baked cinnamon rolls and I realize I have yet another carby frenemy. Warm and right out of the oven, we moisten the top, playfully and somewhat naughtily, with icing. Carnes critiques my first creation and we dig in.

    Brittany likes the middle. I like the sugary caramelized bottom. I made a new friend.

    As I leave, I take an extra one to share with my better half. Sadly, it didn’t make it home. Only god knows where it ended up.

    See new baker Joel Luks at work:

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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